L2501 3rd function manual vs electric

[YukonKing]

So I have a 2021 L2501 with Loader. I opted out of the factory 3rd function at the time of purchase to reduce the cost.

My plan was to install a aftermarket 3rd function myself, I see many options for the electrically operated ones.

Have any of you installed manual "spool" valves? It seems pretty easy to plumb into the power beyond valve/return to tank valve and run that through a manual hydraulic valve and plumb quick connect lines to the loader? Thoughts?

 

[RickB]

If you go that route be sure to buy a power beyond capable valve which will have 3 connections to the tractor. You cannot use a Tee anywhere in an open center system except for combining return to tank lines.
Having a momentary switch mounted on the loader joystick will be far more convenient.

 

[Cataclysm]

I see the manual valve as being hard/cumbersome to operate vs an electric switch right on the loader stick.

Is this cost driven or are there other consideration(s) for wanting to go manual?

 

[YukonKing]

I think the cost will be similar, just looking at locally available vs ordering online. And also looking at the options once I plumb into my power beyond port which is currently unused. If I do the work with my parts I can add a manifold for other valves like a top and tilt for the 3 point, etc.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Another option is a 3 valve set, 2 manual valves for your future T&T set and a 3rd electric valve with the control grip on the loader joystick that can be used for both an aux rear set of couplers as well for a loader 3rd function.

Just something to think about.

 

[YukonKing]

Another option is a 3 valve set, 2 manual valves for your future T&T set and a 3rd electric valve with the control grip on the loader joystick that can be used for both an aux rear set of couplers as well for a loader 3rd function.

Just something to think about.

Yes! This is more of what my goal is. The tractor is such a good tool, power source, etc. I just want to make the most out of any change/upgrade.

 

[old and tired]

I added this to my tractor: 3 Spool 8 GPM Prince MB31BBB5C1 DA Valve

I knew that I was going to have Top and Tilt hydraulics and a grapple. I did not want to spend too much money and only get a single function.

 

[YukonKing]

Another question, the L2501 has the power beyond at the rear of the tractor plumbed right back into the tank. What flow path or action would happen if you installed a closed centre valve? Would it be running then maxed out and push fluid through the pressure relief valve?... Just thinking ahead, trying to understand the system as best I can.

 

[RickB]

Yeah, a closed center valve is the wrong choice to add to an open center system. You'll force all the pump flow over relief at high pressure when the valve is not stroked. Pump life will be measured in hours instead of the normal decades.
FWIW the stock PB from an L2501 loader valve goes to feed the 3 point hitch valve, not directly to tank. Do you have an optional PB loop intended to feed a backhoe?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

You can do all of your plumbing based on the info in the picture.

 

[LD1]

Plumbing would be similar between a electric vs mechanical.

Mechanical will have 3 lines to tractor...P, PB, and T
Most of the electric valves have T ports that are rated for the pressure and they simply plumb them in series. IE: only two lines connecting to the tractor.

Electric is much more convenient, because you can put the switch on the joystick.

Another option to consider would be a diverter.

I am confused as to why you think/say that the PB is unused on your tractor. If you have a loader.....the PB off the loader is what feeds the 3PH. Look at your loader valve. 4 hoses with quick connects go to the loader. there should be THREE that go to the tractor. Of those three, ONE comes from the pump. The other two go to the manifold below the right floorboard like brian pictured.

The PB hose is what you need to supply your NEW valve. The tank line can be teed also as pictured.

Avoid anything with a closed center valve. You will toast your pump

 

[ericm979]

I'm using a rear remote valve to operate my grapple. It's mounted on the fender and the handle points forwards so it's close to the loader control on the fender. It's still not as good as having an electric 3rd function with controls on the joystick. And it's about the same amount of work to install.

I had it installed by the dealer for a different use that I'm not using now, and the grapple was not anticipated at the time. Eventually I will make an electric 3rd function.

 

[YukonKing]

Plumbing would be similar between a electric vs mechanical.

Mechanical will have 3 lines to tractor...P, PB, and T
Most of the electric valves have T ports that are rated for the pressure and they simply plumb them in series. IE: only two lines connecting to the tractor.

Electric is much more convenient, because you can put the switch on the joystick.

Another option to consider would be a diverter.

I am confused as to why you think/say that the PB is unused on your tractor. If you have a loader.....the PB off the loader is what feeds the 3PH. Look at your loader valve. 4 hoses with quick connects go to the loader. there should be THREE that go to the tractor. Of those three, ONE comes from the pump. The other two go to the manifold below the right floorboard like brian pictured.

The PB hose is what you need to supply your NEW valve. The tank line can be teed also as pictured.

Avoid anything with a closed center valve. You will toast your pump

I was referencing installation instruction from an electric setup, but it must have been for another machine. I do have the connections as noted by Brian.