nOOb to chaining down - is this sufficient?

[orangetree]

The kioti finally arrived!

This is my first time using chains, and securing something besides a car (wheel straps) regardless. I've searched and watched the YouTube's to no avail

Are my rear chains OK here on the axle? Until a big pin shows up in the mail I can't attach to the draw bar.

My concern is that any emergency lateral load will be basically entirely on the wheel -

• Could unseat the bead, and all chain tension lost
• Full side-to-side load carried / torqued on the hubs, since its pulling sideways from the outer tire diameter

Also, ion the front, I would prefer to just chain to the axles, but the steering linkage appears to make that impossible... Ideas?

 

[LD1]

Clevis and drawbar on rear when you get your big pin

Is there a brush guard up front. I always chain to that on my tractor

 

[orangetree]

Clevis and drawbar on rear when you get your big pin

Is this _better_, or just easier than what i have? A reason i care a lot about this is half my drive between lots is idaho55 - curvy, 2-lane, along a river, NO barrier, more and more idiot drivers every year taking the curves partway in the opposing lane. ~Every year someone ends up in the river. It seems like tie-downs further out would provide more lateral stability - maybe not, or it doesn't matter?

Is there a brush guard up front. I always chain to that on my tractor

yep, that's what i ended up with. The Bucket can't sit down on the trailer with the chains up there, though - it rests on the chains. can't imaging this is a problem, but just more stuff scratching i suppose

 

[Egon]

The bucket needs to be chained down to.

For the front put some eye bolts on the frame on both sides. Shackle on the drawbar.

 

[Doughknob]

Yeah, on the rear tires like that allows flex. Not ideal.
But if u drive like grampa moses, it might work....

 

[sandman2234]

I also agree that chaining to the axles and having the chains deflected by the tires isn't the best possible way, HOWEVER, it is better than some other ways. I would consider using a piece of carpet or rubber mat to keep the chains from stripping all the paint off of the axles and tie down points.
Egon,
The bucket on your backhoe pictures, while tied down nicely, doesn't appear to prevent side to side motion as well as it could. You would be better to use a chain to each side and not have the chain that goes all the way across that the chains that actually hold the bucket are attached to. The two shorter chains will allow the bucket to move side to side a lot sooner than if you had just went straight to the bucket from each side. I figure you probably did it that way due to the amount and length of the chains and binders you had available, and I understand that, however since we are trying to help with "the best way" I thought this worth mentioning.
David from jax

 

[Beaver Cove Deere]

tie it down diagonally off the axles is better than resting on the tires. It ain't going anywhere.

 

[orangetree]

tie it down diagonally off the axles is better than resting on the tires. It ain't going anywhere.

I'm sure this'll all get easy for me in a few trips - but it doesn't appear to be any way to get the chains diagonally without resting on part of 3-point system...

I will probably stop by the local farm supply (close by) to see if i can get a shackle or pin large enough for the hole in the draw bar; so I won't have to worry transporting it down the highway described above.

However, i am still not entirely clear; on the rear (the most important end; i can control acceleration but not how hard i [might] have to brake) - is by the drawbar 100% as good as by the axles (if i figure out how to avoid the tires)? The draw bar is certainly more convenient - and once my BH is delivered the axles will be even less accessible.

 

[Hall00]

If you are using the axles, cross them and get the chains off the tires. Down and away pulls offer the best load retention amd securing.

A shackle in the drawbar works best, easy and only takes 1 chain and binder.

 

[Xfaxman]

Hope that you have some ratchet binders:

Much easier, faster and safer than lever binders.

 

[orangetree]

Hope that you have some ratchet binders:
View attachment 716304View attachment 716305

Much easier, faster and safer than lever binders.

Yep, thanks, have that exact model I think (import, ordered from western rigging)

 

[Beaver Cove Deere]

A single point of attachment (like the drawbar) is NOT going to prevent a diagonal shift of the load and you should also be aware of how a hard braking event is going to react.

I almost lost a bulldozer off a trailer behind my Mack one day.

 

[dennis103]

I use a strap on all 4 tires. It will actually squat the tires into the trailer as I ratchet them down. I use to use chains from and rear but I like the straps better, holds front to back plus squats it down and no chain damage.

 

[ljjhouser]

My binding plan is this - chain tractor 4 point, the 2 rear are to the clevis and draw bar - I don't like to see chain on the rear axle - don't want it all skinned up and rusting - the front two, i have attach a 2 x 6 about 8" long rectangle 1/4" heavy steel channel to the front of frame below front guard. It is bolted to the frame in existing holes. slide chain and hook thru the channel and hooked to far side - A G70 hook will fit thru to the other side. Hhe loader and bucket is secured by chain through the loader pipe hole. I ONLY USE RACHET BINDERS. They are safe and easier to work with. I sometime travel about 300 miles with the tractor. I also on occasion stop at a CAT scale to make sure the load is where I want it. Best Wishes, Larry

 

[Egon]

I also agree that chaining to the axles and having the chains deflected by the tires isn't the best possible way, HOWEVER, it is better than some other ways. I would consider using a piece of carpet or rubber mat to keep the chains from stripping all the paint off of the axles and tie down points.
Egon,
The bucket on your backhoe pictures, while tied down nicely, doesn't appear to prevent side to side motion as well as it could. You would be better to use a chain to each side and not have the chain that goes all the way across that the chains that actually hold the bucket are attached to. The two shorter chains will allow the bucket to move side to side a lot sooner than if you had just went straight to the bucket from each side. I figure you probably did it that way due to the amount and length of the chains and binders you had available, and I understand that, however since we are trying to help with "the best way" I thought this worth mentioning.
David from jax

If I recall correctly I was working with one chain without the right hooks. The hoe tie down varies almost every time it’s chained down. With some hooks in the proper orientation welded on would be much better and may happen. ( actually it’s been happening for ten years or so )

 

[orangetree]

OK, this seems minimally sufficient. I don't love:

• The single contact on the rear (draw bar); seems plenty strong, but not as stable as two (?). Good angle on the chains, though
• On the front, there is just no factory frame or axle location that can tie down at a 'good' angle (to the proper front tie down points ... Nothing at all is out of the buckets way, and only the brush guard mount works moving back from the tie down to the first stake pocket. Stake pocket is strong enough I'm sure, but the angle is poor (too side to side, needs more front/rear angle)

Really dumb there are not (at least optional) factory proper tie down rings. All that would take is 4 properly spaced holes in the front frame... Come on kioti! I'll definitely be making something when I get the time.

FWIW i will be ratchet - strapping the bucket down

 

[Hall00]

A single point of attachment (like the drawbar) is NOT going to prevent a diagonal shift of the load and you should also be aware of how a hard braking event is going to react.

I almost lost a bulldozer off a trailer behind my Mack one day.

It absolutely will when done correctly

 

[Gee Ray]

A single point of attachment (like the drawbar) is NOT going to prevent a diagonal shift of the load and you should also be aware of how a hard braking event is going to react.

I almost lost a bulldozer off a trailer behind my Mack one day.

Could you explain what happened?

 

[sandman2234]

A drawbar with a clevis and running a chain thru it and angled back will allow side to side movement. In times where you use the drawbar with, you would be better to use two separate chains and maybe pull them more to the side. This will not stop the forward motion created by slamming on the brakes, so beware of that by adding something pulling back towards the rear of the trailer.
David from jax

 

[etpm]

There are web sites that show proper rigging procedure. Diagrams and everything. It would be a good idea to Google how to rig loads. I learned how to rig machine tools from a book years ago and that stuff is online now. I think the OP should Google rigging.
Eric