Repower or Sell PT-425...?

[pka45]

Hi all,

My 2008 PT-425 with 560 hours on the Robin has finally burned up the starter (too much cranking to get it to run in the winter as I don't keep it in a garage!). Great machine, except for the cold starting, so I'm probably looking for a different engine instead of spending a couple hundred on a new starter (are they really $300?). I have read here about the Kohler conversions being fairly simple (thanks cqaigy2), and the Predators being not worth it. Anyone actually used a B&S? What is the model number of the replacement Kohler, and is Equipatron still the best price?

Or, should I just sell the darned thing. Spent 2 hours push mowing yesterday and still not finished...

Thanks for the help and allowing my frustrated rambling.

Pete

 

[johara1]

I think if were me I would go with a Kohler most things needed for the change over would be available through Powertrac ..... Call Terry..... Jim

 

[MossRoad]

Just so you know, I've replaced the starter on my Kohler as well.

I'd say, if you're happy with the way the machine is working except for the starter and cold weather starting, and there's no indication that anything else is problematic on the engine, $300 for another 13 years of service comes out to about 6 cents per day.

I'd weigh that along with the cost of making it a bit easier to start in cold weather before considering an engine swap.

However, if you're wanting to upgrade, as others have suggested, contact PowerTrac and see what they say and how much the conversion parts will cost you.

Are you handy with the knuckle busters? (tools)

 

[ponytug]

If it were me, I would put in the new starter and see what I could do to help the engine start in the cold. Or not worry about it too much...this starter might have been on the weak end of the spectrum when it was made.

If it makes you feel better, I had to replace my Deutz starter at about the same hours. I bought an aftermarket one for a third of the Deutz price from a local auto parts store. It has now lasted as long as the Deutz did.

All the best,

Peter

 

[cqaigy2]

I replaced the starter on my Robin's engine. I don't recall who made it, but matched power and gear tooth size/count as the original. I thought it was around $150 or so, but that was a bunch of years ago. Also replaced the voltage regulator. My problem was a nice mouse nest that had been built up against those parts. Don't ask me how i missed it, but i did, and the mouse urine corroded the starter motor bushing and voltage regulator.

 

[MossRoad]

It's nice to know that there's at least one common bond among owners of different tractor brands... mice!

 

[cqaigy2]

Ha ha, yes. Probably pretty universal, 'I hate mieses to pieces!'.

 

[m5040]

You could look for a local AUTO ELECTRIC shop. That is a place that rebuilds starters and alternators and everything else electric that can be rebuild in vehicles. They will replace the bushings, brushes, and elect contacts in the starter and it is usually inexpensive. They usually are subcontracted by car repair garages. Just a possibility if you dont want new.

 

[pka45]

Thanks for the tips!

 

[the old grind]

I just lost the starter to my EZ-GO 22 Robin. I'd had it re-brushed a decade ago for ~$110 but doubt they did anything with the bearings. It's both starter and generator. At a different shop guy the says best is to have complete rebuild. Had one on the shelf, $180 + tx and cash. (had it) End caps were 180 out and they took a few minutes to rotate one to match the other, but despite my explanation left 'em both 180 from leads reaching to connect. 1/2 hr to 180 the poles/caps and 1 hr to reinstall. I had 'er going again that afternoon.

While my GC is an early '90s model I just replaced the Robin 300cc a few yrs ago. Totally different use (intermittent vs working) but I wouldn't cut corners. What Moss said, it might not take much to give the PT another few years on the job w/o starting over. btw, no Kohlers for me ever but I make good $$ working on 'em. (usually rocker/valve-train component fail, stuck cam followers, etc)

 

[pka45]

Boy that starter is a bugger to get off! Had to make a slight modification…

 

[sandman2234]

Old boss had a rear wheel drive Key push mower he loved, just hated pull starting it. He found an old Cub Cadet starter/generator, removed the pull start housing and mounted an 8"(?) pulley to the flywheel, mounted the starter/gen, added a battery with a few wires, and it started like a champ! The battery in the rear between the tall wheels finally ate the 1/4" aluminum deck out after 10 years. Too much voltage was over charging it, or it was spilling acid since it wasn't a sealed one. Since he owned a machine shop, modifications like these weren't out of the question.
David from jax

 

[pka45]

Well, took the starter to a battery shop and they tested it - said it tested good! Now I’m stumped. Battery tested good, and starting had just gotten weaker and weaker over a matter of weeks until it finally won’t even roll over. Any other ideas?

 

[m5040]

Bad electrical connection. Put it all back together and as you do, clean all connections until bright (then protect with film of oil or grease or a product like Copper Shield).
Then report back if it isn't normal.

 

[ponytug]

It is nice to get some good news.

+1 on @m5040's advice. I would also check all of the crimps as they can wear out if they are subject to vibration and are unsupported. Don't forget the battery terminals and ground, and the battery itself. Your starter is the highest demand on the system, and will show up any weakness first.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Randy Gann]

2nd on possible bad electrical connection. Especially check your ground. It could be making contact but not good enough to carry sufficient amperage to turn the starter.

 

[sandman2234]

Valve adjustment was what was wrong when we thought it was the starter on our riding mower.
David from jax

 

[airbiscuit]

I had a car with a similar problem. I cleaned the terminals and cable ends - still no good. Took it to the shop. Mechanic said it had a replacement end on the cable but no di-electric grease. It looked good, but wasn't. New cable end and di-electric grease, and good to go.

Is the starter in a location where you can put jumper cables to it directly to see how fast it spins the motor?

 

[pka45]

Thanks all - turned out to be the terminals after all.

Sure was a good practice run to learn how to replace the starter! And how I have the “starter access hole” all ready to go…

 

[the old grind]

I found out why the aux battery in the Chevy wasn't staying charged. I'll trim back another inch at both ends, solder on 4 new eyes, and maybe wire in that NOCO isolator while I'm under the hood. (Aint much room there) For weak starting I might check battery ground to frame before looking at batt/cable connections.

View attachment 714366

Valve adjustment was what was wrong when we thought it was the starter on our riding mower.

Lash & timing are prime suspects when I hear popping thru a carburetor. btw, a favorite SGE starting issue whas a guy who'd garnered an older but whole front-deck ZTR for $0.00. He'd gone over mechanicals and cleaned it up but while the starter spun strongly it didn't engage so Joe invited me to check it out. Right away I switched the two black battery cables and it started right up.