NH Workmaster 75 won't go forward or reverse

[NHFord guy]

My 2020 NH Workmaster 75 won't go forward or reverse, any help appreciated. I was using it in the field and pushed in the clutch and moved the shuttle shift from Forward to Reverse and nothing happened. I changed it from Mid, to Low range, then to Hi range and then went through the gears 1-4 in each range, moved it from Forward to Reverse in each attempt. Turned tractor off, then back on, it will only start if clutch is pushed in, tried it without clutch depressed and it wouldn't crank, so this verified the clutch was working, atleast for cranking purposes. I disconnected the battery terminals for a few minutes, in an effort to try and reset the computer, but still acting the same way. I looked under the tractor and nothing seems out of place or broken. I am at a loss, I'm leaning towards it's an electrical issue, but maybe it's the transmission or clutch. Any advice or if you have had a similar problem would be helpful, so I know what else to look for.

 

[WM75Guy]

Sorry to hear of your trouble. I have not had that issue. First I would check the hydraulic fluid level. You might have pulled a hose and lost it without noticing it till now. I did have an issue with not being able to take mine out of PTO till it cooled off. Dealer finally got it fixed. Letting it sit a while would be worth a try, to see if something in the driveline cools down and starts working. Also trying in 2WD and 4WD to see if it makes a difference. Other than that it sounds like a dealer intervention is needed.

If you have to tow it out of the field to trailer it the manual has good info. Short distances and under 5 mph. Just like an automatic transmission in a car the transmission is not lubricated when the engine is off. Exceeding the limits could damage the transmission, adding insult to injury.

Let us know what you find. There several WM75 owners here.

 

[johnsayen]

I wonder if a molex connector became disconnected somewhere.

 

[DieselMonk]

Probably a ripped off wire.

 

[NHFord guy]

Sorry to hear of your trouble. I have not had that issue. First I would check the hydraulic fluid level. You might have pulled a hose and lost it without noticing it till now. I did have an issue with not being able to take mine out of PTO till it cooled off. Dealer finally got it fixed. Letting it sit a while would be worth a try, to see if something in the driveline cools down and starts working. Also trying in 2WD and 4WD to see if it makes a difference. Other than that it sounds like a dealer intervention is needed.

If you have to tow it out of the field to trailer it the manual has good info. Short distances and under 5 mph. Just like an automatic transmission in a car the transmission is not lubricated when the engine is off. Exceeding the limits could damage the transmission, adding insult to injury.

Let us know what you find. There several WM75 owners here.

Thanks for the suggestions. I had already checked the hydraulic/transmission fluid, I checked it the next day after it quit on me and it was a little low, so I topped it off with fluid that I had bought from my local dealer. I tried everything again same as the day before and still it wouldn't move. I called the dealer and the mechanic had me look for a broken or unattached cable coming from the shuttle shift or potentially the clutch, but I didn't see any problems or anything wrong. I have them scheduled to come out next week to diagnose it in the field. I pulled off the fuse cover and didn't find any blown fuses, I will look some more this weekend all over it to see if I can see anything wrong or "a ripped off wire".

 

[rademamj1]

My first thought, is your shifter has simply disconnected, and all shifter movement is not being translated into a gear selection. Either a bolt is broken, missing or failed linkage, and you need to crawl under that tractor and look for any obvious issues. Also, look at a parts manual on your tractor, and see exactly what could be the problem.

My Kioti hydrostatic had a similar problem, and it was a broken range selector, easily repaired by ordering the proper part.

 

[NHFord guy]

Well the NH field mechanic worked on it for several hours yesterday and was able to get it to work in Low range after he made an adjustment to the clutch he said, but it will not move in Mid or High range, so it's got to go to their shop for a teardown and repair the transmission. This being my first ever new tractor, I asked him did I cause it by the way I drove it or something(I always use the clutch when I use the shuttle shift, I have heard some people say you don't have to), he said it just happens sometimes no rhyme or reason.

 

[johnsayen]

Well the NH field mechanic worked on it for several hours yesterday and was able to get it to work in Low range after he made an adjustment to the clutch he said, but it will not move in Mid or High range, so it's got to go to their shop for a teardown and repair the transmission. This being my first ever new tractor, I asked him did I cause it by the way I drove it or something(I always use the clutch when I use the shuttle shift, I have heard some people say you don't have to), he said it just happens sometimes no rhyme or reason.

As much as it sucks, at least it wasn’t something simple.

 

[WM75Guy]

At least it can get out of the field and will go up on the trailer without being winched.

And I use the clutch as well to change directions.

 

[DieselMonk]

Well the NH field mechanic worked on it for several hours yesterday and was able to get it to work in Low range after he made an adjustment to the clutch he said, but it will not move in Mid or High range, so it's got to go to their shop for a teardown and repair the transmission. This being my first ever new tractor, I asked him did I cause it by the way I drove it or something(I always use the clutch when I use the shuttle shift, I have heard some people say you don't have to), he said it just happens sometimes no rhyme or reason.

That depends on what shuttle shift. The EHSS electronic shuttle shift doesn’t need the clutch to be operated during forward / reverse. You can, but it isn’t needed. Usually the shuttle shift works in all ranges. The range settings have nothing to do with it. My guess is a chaffed grounded out or broken wire. Had that happening to one with a cab. They had to take the cab off and found a chaffed wire.

 

[CDennyRun]

What ever became of this issue? Hope you got it worked out by now!

 

[Jwmankin]

I just figured out what happened, had the same problem, was running fine, doing bucket work then all of the sudden it was stuck in neutral, it was a little metal clip that popped off that holds the clutch push pull cable at a specific tension on the clamp directly behind the clutch foot pedal. It would still only start if you pushed the clutch pedal in because the clutch safety switch must be separate from the clutch being engaged. As soon as i was able to get the push pull cable back into place on the bracket behind the clutch pedal it was able to allow the clutch to disengage allowing the tractor to go back into gear. It’s a weakness not having a more sturdy push lock, snapring style clamp to hold the correct tension on the clutch push pull cable.

 

[WM75Guy]

I just figured out what happened, had the same problem, was running fine, doing bucket work then all of the sudden it was stuck in neutral, it was a little metal clip that popped off that holds the clutch push pull cable at a specific tension on the clamp directly behind the clutch foot pedal. It would still only start if you pushed the clutch pedal in because the clutch safety switch must be separate from the clutch being engaged. As soon as i was able to get the push pull cable back into place on the bracket behind the clutch pedal it was able to allow the clutch to disengage allowing the tractor to go back into gear. It’s a weakness not having a more sturdy push lock, snapring style clamp to hold the correct tension on the clutch push pull cable.

Welcome to TBN. Good info to know. Thanks for posting.

 

[Jwmankin]

Before the retaining clip popped off causing my workmaster 75 to stay in neutral I was using the bucket and going from forward to reverse while using the clutch instead of trusting in the shuttle shift, I noticed the clutch would stick about half way down and I had to press hard and it would click when it gave in and released. Whatever the sticking of the clutch peddle was is what caused the retaining clip to pop off, the extra pressure it took to push the clutch down was too much for the retaining clip to hold. I think it may have been caused by using the clutch when I didn’t need to (going from forward to reverse and vise versa) I guess maybe the clutch is only for changing gears, not for going from forward to reverse when you have the shuttle shift feature. I think the guy that started this thread mentioned he had been using the clutch for going forward and reverse also.

 

[WM75Guy]

I use the clutch when going from forward to reverse. Haven't noticed any issues so far.