JD 820 3 cyl diesel fuel problem

[fullchoke]

Hello, I bought this tractor at an auction so there is no known history except what is dismantled and missing. I don't have any experience with tractor repair and I'm stuck. I believe the tractor has not been run in over 10 years. Electrical connections everywhere were corroded. The fuel pump was missing, and the fuel filters were bypassed with a rubber hose and a tiny in line filter. Somebody may have been attempting to start it with an electric fuel pump. There was black goo in the bypassed old filter bowls and in the rubber line. I put on new filters and hooked back up the steel lines. One injector was removed and #2's injector line was missing. I think an attempt to start was made without success and the tractor was left, giving up on it. I put a new ignition switch, lift pump, injector, and injector line on, cleaned all the electrical connections, removed all the air from the lines. I can't get any fuel through the injection pump, I'm worried about that black goo which I think came from the rubber fuel line. I can hear the injection pump click when the key is turned on and the engine turns over quick enough. I removed the hard fuel return line on top of the injection pump, and the pump looks empty, and no fuel exits from the open line while cranking. Should fuel pump out the injection pump return line when cranking the engine? If I take off that top cover which I believe houses the solenoid switch, should it be full of fuel?
Appreciate any help and ideas, Thanks

 

[Tx Jim]

Welcome to TBN
Black residue in diesel fuel sounds as if fungus is present in fuel tank.If fungus is indeed in fuel tank a fuel conditioner with a Bio-cide needs to be added to fuel tank. Have you opened drain cock under fuel tank to determine if any water is present in fuel tank? I'll bet metering valve inside inj pump is stuck. One needs to be very aware of where each end of spring under inj pump cover is attached if one decides to remove the cover.

 

[fullchoke]

I removed the tank and dumped it out. This tractor was never taken care of. Dirt was packed over the hydraulic pump and under the tank and radiator. I cleaned all that out while waiting for parts. I will add the fuel conditioner. Does the algae settle to the bottom of the filter bowls and remain clear on top?

If I remove the pump cover will it give me access to the stuck metering valve? Is there any good way to free it without removing the cover, like air pressure in the inlet, or filling the area under the cap with a penetrant through the return connection in the cap?

Is the stuck metering valve a common problem with a machine that has sat a long time?

The tractor shows 1488 hours, but I don't know if the timer is working. The crankcase had a lot of diesel in it, but it sounds ok while cranking so I'm hopeful.

Thanks

 

[Tx Jim]

Metering valve sticking in IP has become more common with advent/usage of ULSD fuel. Yes fungus AKA algae normally settles in tank especially if any water is present in fuel tank.

 

[fullchoke]

There was a small amount of water in the tank along with rust. Condensation brought in the water. I figured that was to be expected with how long this tractor was sitting. I had heard about algae in diesel, but have no experience with it until now.

About the sticking metering valve.....how do I un-stick it?

Thanks

 

[fullchoke]

Has anyone encountered the stuck metering valve in the IP, and can tell me what to look for when I remove the cap and the procedure. Sorry but I probably need my hand held on this.
Thanks

 

[Tx Jim]

I've never had cover off of inj pump. I thought a member more experienced with inj pumps would answer your question.

 

[fullchoke]

I'm a little bit afraid that I might take the top off and still not be able to fix the problem, or worse create another. Hopefully someone sees this that has been down this road.

Thanks

 

[beenthere]

Send a pm to member "thepumpguysc" as he has good information and advice about injection pumps.

 

[fullchoke]

"thepumpguysc" was very helpful, and I know what I need to do, but I have to get the tractor to turn over with the starter, which quit working. There was fuel slowly dripping off the fuel filter connection. It landed on a wiring harness which ran across the starter, then dripped off on the starter solenoid. I now have no power to the starter. This tractor has a loader on it, so I can't get to the starter to remove it. I have an idea with a ford type solenoid, I'll try to make that work. This has been a stubborn tractor.

 

[Tx Jim]

If battery ground cable is still attached to battery box that attached to clutch housing THEN I suggest to acquire a negative ground cable long enough to reach engine block. This method should supply more amps to starter solenoid. Please explain your method for utilizing Ford type solenoid. Are you intending to install it as a relay on solenoid exciter wire similar to photo below of kit JD offers?

 

[fullchoke]

I was going to try adding the ford type solenoid so that when power went to the solenoid on the starter, it also went to the add on solenoid which would send the power to the starter. I would have the exciter wire go to each solenoid. I was not certain it would power each, and if not I would switch on a separate power line to the add on solenoid, so in effect I would have to push 2 buttons. Luckily I didn't have to do this, instead I hooked up a 50 amp charger to the battery to see if that would do the trick, and it did. The battery is brand new, so it wasn't the battery.

My next question how do I rotate this tractor engine by hand? Since it is determined the injection pump is bad, I should time it before I remove it. thepumpguysc was very helpful in telling me how to do this, but turning the engine with the crank bolt isn't possible with the hydraulic pump covering it. I could bump the starter, but don't think I can get it to stop exactly right. I'm going to go stare at it some more. I don't want to dismantle the front of the tractor to get at that crank bolt unless there is no other way.

Thanks

 

[Tx Jim]

JD 300 series engines such as your 820 can be rotated with a special engine rotating tool that one inserts in hole flywheel housing on LH side that covered by a small plate or by turning fan while pushing on fan belt to increase belt tension.

I was not certain it would power each, and if not I would switch on a separate power line to the add on solenoid, so in effect I would have to push 2 buttons.

I think your idea of adding extra solenoid with 2 switches would be very inconvenient. I suggest to follow JD engineers idea in photo I previously posted that I will post again. If you enlarge photo & inspect closely one can follow wire routing!!!!!

 

[Zebrafive]

Would it be possible to rotate the engine via the PTO shaft?
That's if it does NOT have the independent PTO with hydraulic clutch pack.

 

[Tinhack]

820 can be rotated with a special engine rotating tool that one inserts in hole flywheel housing on LH side that covered by a small plate or by turning fan while pushing on fan belt to increase belt tension.

That "special tool" can be a large screwdriver or pry bar.

Won't the front cover have to be removed to get the injector pump off? IDK. If so, you'll most likely have to remove the hydraulic pump too.

 

[Tx Jim]

That "special tool" can be a large screwdriver or pry bar.

Won't the front cover have to be removed to get the injector pump off? IDK. If so, you'll most likely have to remove the hydraulic pump too.

I've never attempted to turn flywheel with a pry bar on a JD 300 series engine. Have you attempted this feat? To R&R inj pump one needs to remove cover(item 11)

 

[fullchoke]

I tried to time the IP before I removed it, but it didn't move in the timing window. I then thought something was broken inside, so I took off the 2 nuts holding it on, and pulled the IP off the shaft. Not seeing how that shaft connected to the pump, I watched a You Tube video on R&R and discovered the driveshaft is broken. Now I need a new driveshaft, and have possibly more damage in the pump. I've got to get the broken driveshaft out...somehow. I also had a lot of diesel fuel in the engine oil when I changed it, so I could have a major problem in there too. The way things are going I probably should expect that. The engine sounds fine cranking it, but I wouldn't expect to hear a knock until it fires. Right now I don't know the condition of the lower end. My son thinks I should bail on this tractor before I buy an IP and find the engine is bad too. What would you do?

 

[Tx Jim]

Due to fact you purchased this tractor at auction & don't know the condition of engine your son could be correct. Head & rotor in IP are probably seized causing shaft to break. Are you mechanically inclined?

 

[fullchoke]

I'm mechanically inclined, but not a mechanic. I know my son could be correct, and definitely is correct if the bottom end is knocking. I have thought about pulling the pan and checking it. I think I could tell if one was loose. Thinking that it should be done now that the IP is in such bad shape. The cost to replace the IP is now going to be especially steep, since that driveshaft is broke. I shouldn't spend that kind of money on an engine that needs a rebuild, I should know what I'm up against. Plus the steering is especially sloppy, so money needs to be spent there too. It has power steering and was worked hard with the loader and no maintenance.

 

[Tx Jim]

I think you have an excellent idea to check the condition of rod/main brgs.