Starlink

/ Starlink #1,182  
By the way, the same researchers noted that their current antenna hardware differs from prior tear downs, so the answer may change, but I don't see much upside to Starlink putting a user accessible RJ45 connector on the antenna as there are so many ways for water and dust to get in and for the cable to get yanked on by wind.
Perhaps it's for the same reason they put a telephone jack outside the house, so you can connect to it to determine whether it's your house wiring that's to blame, or whether it's on the phone company's side of the wiring that's to blame. (Weather protection aside, I'm sure starlink will figure that out).
 
/ Starlink #1,183  
A rather readable Starlink overview from RV Mobile internet, with attention to some of the limitations Starlink (power, temperature, bandwidth, geofencing, and ongoing improvements, as well as competitors, both real, and potential.)

All the best,

Peter
 
/ Starlink #1,185  
Maybe it was published before, but I noticed it said that in certain areas capacity will be limited and only offered to a certain number on first-come first-serve.
 
/ Starlink #1,186  

This is an interview with Starlink girl who I've never heard of before and Warren is interviewing her and I'm 22 minutes in and I think a few of you may be interested.
 
/ Starlink #1,188  
Apologies if this has been discussed before. I'm currently on the preorder list for Starlink, and for my existing setup, I have about 120 feet of buried cat5e cable running from my network closet inside the house to a pole outside where my current internet provider's dish is located. I intend to mount Dishy to that same pole.

Given that I don't require the 100 feet of cord that comes with Dishy, and the reported issues some have experienced trying to extend Dishy's cord, is it possible to simply cut Dishy's cord to a shorter length, and add a new RJ-45 connector to it? In the unboxing vids I noticed the cord does have what appear to be ferrite chokes or something else on them. Not sure how critical those are to the operation of the cord. I believe I read somewhere about someone cutting the cord for a splice, and that it appeared to be typical cat5e cord, albeit with a more robust exterior covering.
 
/ Starlink #1,189  
Apologies if this has been discussed before. I'm currently on the preorder list for Starlink, and for my existing setup, I have about 120 feet of buried cat5e cable running from my network closet inside the house to a pole outside where my current internet provider's dish is located. I intend to mount Dishy to that same pole.

Given that I don't require the 100 feet of cord that comes with Dishy, and the reported issues some have experienced trying to extend Dishy's cord, is it possible to simply cut Dishy's cord to a shorter length, and add a new RJ-45 connector to it? In the unboxing vids I noticed the cord does have what appear to be ferrite chokes or something else on them. Not sure how critical those are to the operation of the cord. I believe I read somewhere about someone cutting the cord for a splice, and that it appeared to be typical cat5e cord, albeit with a more robust exterior covering.

The cable between the dish and the controller box is (apparently) not a standard cable. Some have speculated it is some type of enhanced CAT 6e variation that can support more power than standard PoE. It isn't recommended to cut it, nor to extend it. If your dish mount has to be more than 100' from your in-home network location, the recommendation would be to provide an weather-tight enclosure with AC power within 100' of the dish mount location, store the dish controller there, and then connect it back via any standard supported length of CAT 6e to the router location in your home*. You can use the included Starlink router then or any other router of your choice. The Starlink router is also powered via PoE so the cable run from the controller to it needs to be within PoE supported length if you use their router. Obviously if you use your own router that has its own power supply then no need for PoE from the controller so length can be higher.

Some folks have altered the included dish cable and been successful. Some not. It's your $500 to experiment with. :)

Rob

*Note that knowledgeable folks will generally recommend using a CAT to fiber converter and run fiber if you need to bury or string it outside, to avoid lightning risks. Starlink doesn't seem to think that is vital, given their stock CAT connection though. YMMV.
 
/ Starlink #1,190  
Apologies if this has been discussed before. I'm currently on the preorder list for Starlink, and for my existing setup, I have about 120 feet of buried cat5e cable running from my network closet inside the house to a pole outside where my current internet provider's dish is located. I intend to mount Dishy to that same pole.

Given that I don't require the 100 feet of cord that comes with Dishy, and the reported issues some have experienced trying to extend Dishy's cord, is it possible to simply cut Dishy's cord to a shorter length, and add a new RJ-45 connector to it? In the unboxing vids I noticed the cord does have what appear to be ferrite chokes or something else on them. Not sure how critical those are to the operation of the cord. I believe I read somewhere about someone cutting the cord for a splice, and that it appeared to be typical cat5e cord, albeit with a more robust exterior covering.
You are aware that you will need 120V power within 100' of your Starlink antenna, right?

Short answer; you can do anything you want. It is your dish.

Longer answer; as @BigBlue1 wrote, no, not a good idea. The dishy cable is a weatherproof, UV rated, direct burial rated cable of heavier than normal gauge. Starlink is running an atypically high amount of power (up to 150W) from the POE power supply block to the dish. I believe that that caused Starlink to limit the length of the cable, and increase the required wire gauge to lower the power losses to acceptable levels. If you splice the cable, you would need to go even larger. (Hint: very, very few Ethernet cables are as heavy as the Starlink cable.) I would suggest that you run power out there, put in a ventilated weatherproof enclosure for the dishy power supply and then use your existing cable to bring to the Starlink router in your house.

I wouldn't try to lengthen the cable.

But your call.

All the best,

Peter
 
/ Starlink #1,191  
The cable between the dish and the controller box is (apparently) not a standard cable. Some have speculated it is some type of enhanced CAT 6e variation that can support more power than standard PoE. It isn't recommended to cut it, nor to extend it. If your dish mount has to be more than 100' from your in-home network location, the recommendation would be to provide an weather-tight enclosure with AC power within 100' of the dish mount location, store the dish controller there, and then connect it back via any standard supported length of CAT 6e to the router location in your home*. You can use the included Starlink router then or any other router of your choice. The Starlink router is also powered via PoE so the cable run from the controller to it needs to be within PoE supported length if you use their router. Obviously if you use your own router that has its own power supply then no need for PoE from the controller so length can be higher.

Some folks have altered the included dish cable and been successful. Some not. It's your $500 to experiment with. :)

Rob

*Note that knowledgeable folks will generally recommend using a CAT to fiber converter and run fiber if you need to bury or string it outside, to avoid lightning risks. Starlink doesn't seem to think that is vital, given their stock CAT connection though. YMMV.

Thx for the replies Rob & Peter. I do have a power junction box for my well about 10 feet from the post but I'll likely try connecting Dishy's cable to my existing cable first to see if it works. I don't like the idea of the power brick sitting outside in the Florida heat/humidity. I also have an unused cat5e cord going to my garage attic if I chose to mount Dishy somewhere around that location. Again though, the brick would be subjected to a lot of heat in that attic.
 
/ Starlink #1,192  
the brick would be subjected to a lot of heat in that attic.
I'd really try to avoid that. Considering Starlink is in beta it might be a challenge to get that replaced. Heat is not the friend of electronics.
 
/ Starlink #1,193  
Thx for the replies Rob & Peter. I do have a power junction box for my well about 10 feet from the post but I'll likely try connecting Dishy's cable to my existing cable first to see if it works. I don't like the idea of the power brick sitting outside in the Florida heat/humidity. I also have an unused cat5e cord going to my garage attic if I chose to mount Dishy somewhere around that location. Again though, the brick would be subjected to a lot of heat in that attic.
Having read of other's experiences trying to lengthen Dishy's cable I really doubt it will work. People have tried, and Dishy spikes to a really high power draw when the satellites aren't overhead (150W).

I do recommend a ventilated enclosure, similar to this one;

B7FEDBF2-10B6-4668-9CC5-19C6A5DD0DF4.jpeg

They aren't cheap, but they are of the "set it, and forget it" variety.

All the best,

Peter
 
/ Starlink #1,195  
That's a very nice enclosure. I'd probably spring for something like that.
It has been on my bookmark list, waiting for a Starlink POE adapter.:) Altelix makes a large number of variations in size, outlets, backboard, and ports.

All the best,

Peter
 
/ Starlink #1,196  
Could build something equivalent for way less I would think.
 
/ Starlink #1,197  
Could build something equivalent for way less I would think.
I am sure you and many other folks could. I have built a few.

I would point out that a basic NEMA 4X+ enclosure is pretty pricey just by itself. These boxes aren't just rain tight sheet metal boxes that you can pick up at Lowe's.

However, if you don't happen to have the parts lying around, and you are ordering a couple of cable glands, strain relief, fans, mesh, filters, filter holders, acetal, terminal strips, and glue, it adds up. Personally, I think that the tricky bit for me is getting the cooling fan covers to be watertight, but we all have different strengths.

All the best,

Peter
 
/ Starlink #1,198  
As mentioned, no the cable cannot be disconnected from the dish. And it is suspected that it is not a standard Cat 6e cable due to the power requirements. The suggested option if you need the dish further then 100' (of cable) from your indoor location is to have a weather-protected place with power to house the controller, then use a longer standard Cat 6e cable to connect the controller to the Starlink router (or you own router).

Rob
or

3C534A02-9D1C-444C-8840-63622DE35F25.jpeg
 
/ Starlink #1,199  
Yes, i've built a few outdoor boxes for electronic equipment, and if you already have the parts, it's possible to do it cheaper, but to get all of the parts for cheaper can be a bit challenging.
 
/ Starlink #1,200  
I just went to Amazon, and if you are willing to give up some on the ventilation and rain proofing, and perhaps box quality, I think that you could build it yourself for about 2/3rds of the price.

All the best,

Peter
 

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