Re gen cycles

[check 6]

I’m negotiating to upgrade my B2601 to a L 3540 for a number of reasons ie location of fuel filler, throttle peddle especially reverse, increased stability a cab etc however now I am getting cold feet as I read about the re gen issues with tractors really all diesels over 26 hp . Would someone explain the re gen issue and how it effects normal operation

 

[Avenger]

There is a large filter on the exhaust. This filter is called the Diesel Particulate Filter or DPF. The DPF will clog up with soot if the tractor does not preform a regeneration cycle. A regen cycle is computer controlled and raises the temp of the DPF, by injecting fuel into it, and thus burns out the soot.

For some makes/models this happens very frequently, while others, not so much. Mine, for example, with auto regen every 50hrs by default or when the ECU senses the DPF getting clogged up. I can postpone or override the cycle by pushing a button. This is to remove the tractor from a potentially dangerous situation before regen occurs. Think tractor in a wheat field. You would want to postpone the regen cycle, move the tractor to an area that wont catch on fire, and allow the tractor to regen.

Many tractors, you do not need to actually do anything. You simply keep working. Some, you may need to stop and let the tractor do its thing. Again, this depends on make/model.

Operating your tractor may change. You're new idle should be higher, manually set, so that you do not clog the DPF quicker by allowing the engine to lug. Also, ramping up in RPM quickly should be avoided, but not necessarily bad. Think "rolling coal," only the soot is being filtered, and will need to be burned out.

Its not bad. Its not good. Its the EPA. Take it for what its worth.

Hope this helps.

 

[ericm979]

The L3540 was made from 2009 to 2013 so I think that means it was "Tier 3 interim" which would not have the DPF.

Some Tier 4 tractors over 25hp have a DOC instead of a DPF. Some have both.

All but a few models with DOC, DPF or DOC+DPF work fine with no problems. Especially if you run it at the rpms the manufacturer recommends rather than lugging it and don't let it idle for long periods.

 

[hosspuller]

Biggest change is operating. The DPF tractors need to get the DPF HOT. For a utility tractor, this is hard. Start the tractor, open the gate, feed the animals, close the gate, back to the house. The machine barely gets warm in the Winter. Bush hogging a field is great though. Several hours of full throttle operation. I get a regen about once a year. Seems to happen in the Spring, after Winter operations.

 

[check 6]

Appreciate your comments and making me really think the upgrade. I use my tractor often just not for long periods . Lots of 15 minute to 1/2 hour chores . Doing these chores lots of on and off the tractor with it idling, all things it seems are bad with the re gen engines

 

[JCoastie]

My 2020 MT240 has been doing a regen every 13-18 hours recently. Dealer is still looking for the cause. Other than an annoyance, it isn't a big deal overall, I just wish it was longer between, somewhere up near 40-50hrs where it seems it "should" be.

 

[RSR]

My 2020 MT240 has been doing a regen every 13-18 hours recently. Dealer is still looking for the cause. Other than an annoyance, it isn't a big deal overall, I just wish it was longer between, somewhere up near 40-50hrs where it seems it "should" be.

I'm assuming you have the idle set high, even when not working?

On my LS, if I run at 1600-1800 RPM, I regen about every 30 hours. If I run at 2200-2400 RPM, it's >50 hours to regen, but the LS forces into regen at precisely 50 hours. I live in a cool climate as well.

 

[Midniteoyl]

I’m negotiating to upgrade my B2601 to a L 3540 for a number of reasons ie location of fuel filler, throttle peddle especially reverse, increased stability a cab etc however now I am getting cold feet as I read about the re gen issues with tractors really all diesels over 26 hp . Would someone explain the re gen issue and how it effects normal operation

The L3540 was made from 2009 to 2013 so I think that means it was "Tier 3 interim" which would not have the DPF.

I don't think the L3540 has the DPF and it *might* have the EGR system. The workshop manual doesn't list a DPF either: KUBOTA L3540 WORKSHOP MANUAL Pdf Download | ManualsLib

 

[Midniteoyl]

 

[Avenger]

Appreciate your comments and making me really think the upgrade. I use my tractor often just not for long periods . Lots of 15 minute to 1/2 hour chores . Doing these chores lots of on and off the tractor with it idling, all things it seems are bad with the re gen engines

If you're getting on and off your tractor a lot, and you're used to pulling it down to an idle (either by foot control or by hand throttle), getting off, doing your work, jumping back on, revving it up and moving, rinse and repeat, then you will need to change your habits. You're new idle should be much higher when doing the on/off thing.

My absolute idle is under 1,000RPM for my tractor. That's the hand throttle pulled all the way down. The ONLY time it is at that idle is when I am warming it up, or cooling it off (turbo). And that is for a few minutes or sometimes, seconds. (Yes, I did say seconds. When its 90 degrees out, it does not need to warm up at idle for more than a few seconds before bumping up RPM)

After the engine has warmed up a bit, I use the hand throttle to bump up the RPM to no less than 1500RPM. That is my new idle. The tractor does not go below that until I cool it off at the end of work. This goes for the 10 minute jobs, to the 18hr jobs.

I did have a hard time with this concept when I first got my tractor. Being a gear tractor, I would use it like an old farm tractor I used to have, when using the FEL: Hand throttle pulled all the way down at absolute idle. Use the foot throttle to raise and lower RPM while doing FEL work. I learned that this rapid change in acceleration of the engine combined with running at absolute idle, is one of the worst things you can do with a tractor equipped with a DPF (besides postponing the regen and building up too much soot, resulting in limp mode and a dealer call). I had to retrain my brain, to use the hand throttle set at 1500, and use the foot sparingly. I still get the work done, but its just different.

As I said before, it is what it is. If you dont want this EPA garbage, then you will need to find an older used tractor. You wont have the annoyances of the DPF and regen cycles, but who knows what else you will have. I guess the same could be said for a new tractor, given the issues, recalls, and warranty work on top of the annoyances a DPF brings. But at least you will know the history of the tractor first hand.

 

[Williy]

I ordered a Yanmar YT235C it is a tier 4 when the
light comes on the dash just pust the button to re-gen
and keep going no need to stop

willy

 

[JCoastie]

I'm assuming you have the idle set high, even when not working?

On my LS, if I run at 1600-1800 RPM, I regen about every 30 hours. If I run at 2200-2400 RPM, it's >50 hours to regen, but the LS forces into regen at precisely 50 hours. I live in a cool climate as well.

Usually 1800-2400

 

[Williy]

If you can check out this tractor:

Its when you think you are saving on fuel by
running with low rpm's that gum up the works!
That's what causes you to re-gen more often!
I will not be having a problem like that as when
I will be using the attachments they require the
pto to be used and it requires 2600 rpm's and I
don't expect I will have to re-gen very often!
And when I do re-gen I can just push a button
and keep on working so no need to stop for 10
minutes or more. Yanmar has this one figured
out. Why some of the other diesel tractors have
to stop and re-gen is nothing but a PITA! When
people are working with their tractor they don't
want to stop in the middle and go to some place
that won't catch on fire!

willy

 

[nybirdman]

If you are looking at a "Used" L3540,the don't have the pollution controls.I have a "40" series tractor.

 

[Frankenkubota]

If you're getting on and off your tractor a lot, and you're used to pulling it down to an idle (either by foot control or by hand throttle), getting off, doing your work, jumping back on, revving it up and moving, rinse and repeat, then you will need to change your habits. You're new idle should be much higher when doing the on/off thing.

My absolute idle is under 1,000RPM for my tractor. That's the hand throttle pulled all the way down. The ONLY time it is at that idle is when I am warming it up, or cooling it off (turbo). And that is for a few minutes or sometimes, seconds. (Yes, I did say seconds. When its 90 degrees out, it does not need to warm up at idle for more than a few seconds before bumping up RPM)

After the engine has warmed up a bit, I use the hand throttle to bump up the RPM to no less than 1500RPM. That is my new idle. The tractor does not go below that until I cool it off at the end of work. This goes for the 10 minute jobs, to the 18hr jobs.

I did have a hard time with this concept when I first got my tractor. Being a gear tractor, I would use it like an old farm tractor I used to have, when using the FEL: Hand throttle pulled all the way down at absolute idle. Use the foot throttle to raise and lower RPM while doing FEL work. I learned that this rapid change in acceleration of the engine combined with running at absolute idle, is one of the worst things you can do with a tractor equipped with a DPF (besides postponing the regen and building up too much soot, resulting in limp mode and a dealer call). I had to retrain my brain, to use the hand throttle set at 1500, and use the foot sparingly. I still get the work done, but its just different.

As I said before, it is what it is. If you dont want this EPA garbage, then you will need to find an older used tractor. You wont have the annoyances of the DPF and regen cycles, but who knows what else you will have. I guess the same could be said for a new tractor, given the issues, recalls, and warranty work on top of the annoyances a DPF brings. But at least you will know the history of the tractor first hand.

this came up before and a comment was made that running at that high rpm was ...i think disconcerting?

the reply was....get used to it.

i now operate as above although i've noticed my gas mileage.....ain't what it used to be.

Run the he// out of it, it's kubota!

 

[Username Taken]

this came up before and a comment was made that running at that high rpm was ...i think disconcerting?

the reply was....get used to it.

i now operate as above although i've noticed my gas mileage.....ain't what it used to be.

Run the he// out of it, it's kubota!

Using much more fuel somehow appeases the pollution gods? Somebody 'splain that to me.

 

[RSR]

10% of 2 is less than 50% of 1. That's how.