Bush hog setup

[beenthere]

You should have a shield on the pto shaft also, a safety thing.

Never are around that shaft when the rotary mower is running, so not an unsafe PTO without a shield.. IMO.
Those shields are/were for operating the PTO on equipment that you are working around while running.. feed mixer, baler, chipper, etc.

I replaced the steel straps with chain that run to the rear of the rotary mower deck.. works great with hyd. top arm combo. Adjust top arm so the mower floats (chains loose) on the rear wheel, but lifts off the ground when 3ph raised.

Stiffened the rear skirt on the 513 with some square tubing to help backing into brush.

 

[JWR]

I use an aged JD 413 on a Kubota B2150. I too have to use "00 Grease" in the gearboox because replacing the seals (which seem to go bad on all of the older ones) would cost more than the thing is worth. I use chain for the top strap replacements aft of the front A-frame on a larger hog. On the 413 I kept the top link in place because it allows easy adjustment compared to chain fiddling. I assume you know that you use the hydraulic on your 3-pt lift arms to set the mowing hieght of the FRONT of the hog and your trailing wheel on the back of the hog to set the rear clearance. The original floppy short straps (now that you unwelded them!) should be fine for most applications unless you have extreme gulleys and humps to go over.

 

[wirlybird]

This is similar to one I have on a finish mower and on mine you want the two straps that attach to the top link to point down and generally be set at about a 45 to the ground.
Also make sure the pin is not too long or it hits the uprights.
This allows the rear of the mower to raise and lower from its standard position and follow the ground better. The more it points to the ground the more the rear of the mower can drop such as if you were backing into an area with a drop off.
On mine when I am ready to transport I just wind the top link up to take up the slack.

Here is a video that might be helpful, it is for a finish mower but same principle.

 

[Greenvalleymatt]

Glad you got it worked out. Another Idea that I like for a bush hog with real wheel(s) is to replace the top-to-back braces with welded chains. You get full float over terrain.
Another essential to me is a top link made out of a hydraulic cylinder. It's Infinitely adjustable and can lift the back very high with a flick of the lever.

Thanks

 

[MechanicalGuy]

To all that bush hog-especially those in dry conditions:
I have been in the business 30+ years, running all sorts of field mowers from 5' to 15' on tractors from 25 to 225HP.
Last week, I was mowing in a dry area with a 15' mower around a few rocks and struck one. Sparks flew and ignited a small area of dry grass.
Luckily I was carrying a water extinguisher on the tractor. I did NOT need to deploy it. I was able to stomp it out pretty easy.

Carry a fire extinguisher. Preferably a water type and a ABC type. Cheap insurance. I'm glad I had it should things have gotten out of control.
View attachment 698747


View attachment 698746
I keep a 10lb ABC in the cab, too.

Although it's a good idea, I barely have a place on my tractor for a toolbox and chainsaw, and that's after spending much time figuring out how and where there was space available. They just don't have a lot of room for add-ons on these tractors.

 

[Hay Dude]

Although it's a good idea, I barely have a place on my tractor for a toolbox and chainsaw, and that's after spending much time figuring out how and where there was space available. They just don't have a lot of room for add-ons on these tractors.

You’re right, they don’t have a lot of options.
Did you see where I mounted my water extinguisher on the loader frame? Mounted the ABC next to the seat. Just gotta be creative!

I think tractor manufacturers should have given us more options for carry on items

 

[Greenvalleymatt]

Back to the garage for me. I made the mistake of not knowing how to properly sharpen the blades, and now I get to do it the proper way, which I've been told is flat bottom, 45 degree angle top, and that's it, no sharpening past that. I got those blades knife sharp, due to several dings in the blades, I took off some ok the bottom too to try and get the surface smooth. Y'all think it would be ok to grind the blades dull and flat and then start over correctly, or is that too much material taken off?

 

[Zebrafive]

I would not worry about what you took off the bottom.
If cutting brush, you want about 1/16" or more flat edge to "shred" the brush, not make clean cuts.
If only grass/weeds, they can be sharper.
Remember this is for rough cutting, it's not a finish mower.

 

[Highgear]

Looks like you need to set the rear wheel up one notch so the mower sets flat - 1/2" off the ground at all 4 corners .

 

[LD48750]

Back to the garage for me. I made the mistake of not knowing how to properly sharpen the blades, and now I get to do it the proper way, which I've been told is flat bottom, 45 degree angle top, and that's it, no sharpening past that. I got those blades knife sharp, due to several dings in the blades, I took off some ok the bottom too to try and get the surface smooth. Y'all think it would be ok to grind the blades dull and flat and then start over correctly, or is that too much material taken off?

I wouldn't worry about it, in a few hours they will be dull again.
In 10 years I have only ground mine once.
Works just fine for what it was intended for.