Noob question 4 wheel drive

[Ebbtide33]

Hi everyone! First time tractor owner here and I’m trying to learn as much as I can. I have a 25hp Branson and live in Florida. I’m using the tractor for mostly bucket and grapple work. My land is pretty sandy but not enough softness that I get stuck in. i do feel the tractor bog down frequently. I run my RPMs 15-1800 when working the two implements. Is this the sweet spot to run RPMs and also should I be running it in 4x4 mode all the time or stick with 2 wheel until I get stuck? Thanks for any help! Mike

 

[jeff9366]

I run in 4-WD at all times EXCEPT when traveling on hard surface roads.

The front wheels/tires move about 5% further than rears with 4-WD engaged. On hard surfaces having 4-WD engaged increases front tire wear slightly.

Moving over hard surfaces in the residential development I maintain my three cylinder engine has a low vibration point at 1,850 rpm which yields 11 mph in HST high range.

 

[grsthegreat]

I only use 4x4 when I start getting stuck.

 

[Wagtail]

I run in 4-WD at all times EXCEPT when traveling on hard surface roads.

The front wheels/tires move about 5% faster than rears with 4-WD engaged. On hard surfaces having 4-WD engaged increases front tire wear slightly.

G'day Mate and welcome to TBN from Downunder.

I agree with Jeff regarding 4-WD usage, especially when it comes to FEL (Front End Loader) work. Always switch to 2-WD when travelling at speed (higher RPMs) on hard surface/paved/bitumen roads.

I can't speak to your RPM 'sweet spot' as every tractor is different. My 4105's (41hp) 'spot' is a titch over 2100... I can run all day at that with minimum diesel usage.

Enjoy the site.

 

[grsthegreat]

It might be the fact that I have a 45 HP tractor, so it’s heavier than your 25 hp unit, but I find That I can work nearly all spring thru fall without ever needing 4x4 mode. Come winter it generally never leaves the 4x4 mode due to snow and ice.

if I’m digging, I may switch into it, but generally don’t have to.

 

[redman135]

On your sandy soil I would follow jeff9366 advise.
You will also find that you get through soft sand a bit easier since the front wheels are climbing on top of the ground rather than being pushed through the ground as in 2wd.

 

[ptsg]

Just run with 4x4 engaged until you need to go to an hard surface. Specially with a loader. Without a loader it's no big deal.

These tractors can turn the wheels so much and the front is just plowing on sandy soil and applying side load to the wheel and hubs which is not ideal. With the 4x4 engaged, it will pull the front instead of plowing through the soil.

I also have a sandy soil, plus, I till my orchards and have to constantly drive through them. With 4x4 disengaged, it will turn, but will also literally open a ditch.

The standard width Branson has a 52 degree steering angle, mine is a Narrow version with 47 degrees. I can only see the OP's tractor getting a worse plowing effect than mine.

 

[ptsg]

It might be the fact that I have a 45 HP tractor, so it’s heavier than your 25 hp unit, but I find That I can work nearly all spring thru fall without ever needing 4x4 mode. Come winter it generally never leaves the 4x4 mode due to snow and ice.

if I’m digging, I may switch into it, but generally don’t have to.

That Branson 2515 tractor ends up being the same weight and frame size as yours.

 

[Hay Dude]

I run almost constantly 2wd. I only use 4wd when I’m on real hilly or slippery ground-which is pretty often for me. I do not like to run a 4wd unnecessarily on flat ground or pavement as it creates wear on components which are not needed. I kind of recoil when I see tractors run on hard ground and cutting & chunking tires and ground in a tight turn..... cant imagine the stress on front axle components and tires.
However, I wouldn’t wait “until you get stuck”, either. Survey the ground conditions, then use 4wd when you sense that you’ll need it. 4wd is a big plus when doing loader work since you are losing weight on the rear wheels and reducing rear wheels traction.

 

[wolc123]

I run 4wd most of the time. Our farm is all mucky bottom land soil. On dry years, the ground might get hard enough by mid summer to not need it, but that is very rate. I also take it out of 4wd on pavement, unless I am doing loader work, in which case, the 4wd stays engaged.

On soft ground, your tractor will get significantly better fuel economy in 4wd, because no energy is wasted pushing the dead front axle. That is why it is rare to see big 2wd tractors out in fields these days. On a secondary tillage tool, like a disk or cultimulcher, you will get about 20 % more fuel economy on average if your 4wd is engaged compared to if it is not. That savings adds up fast if you are doing lots of acres.

 

[rScotty]

That Branson 2515 tractor ends up being the same weight and frame size as yours.

I got curious and looked this up. According to the manufacturers, the higher HP Kioti DK45 is quite a bit heavier as well as larger throughout. Comparing similar HP tractors though, their weights are similar.

 

[oosik]

The way my M6040 is set up with grapple, loaded rear tires and rear blade - it weighs 10,100 pounds. I don't venture out on the property much in the spring. The ground is very soft and ruts are created. There is a large valley on my mile long gravel driveway. I WILL use 4WD when blading snow and coming up out of the valley. I used 4WD about a month ago to blade out( LPGS ) a muddy stretch on the driveway. 4WD will keep everything going in the same direction.

I would estimate that I need/use 4WD about 5% of the time. Otherwise, there is absolutely no reason to use 4WD and cause unneeded wear.

Welcome to TBN and the forum - EbbTide 33.

 

[Ebbtide33]

Thanks so much for answering my questions, I really appreciate it. I’m going to run it in 4x4 today out working and see if I can tell I big difference. The tractor will never ever see hard surface or a road type ground. Our 20 acres is all woods and sand. Mike

 

[TerryR]

The tractor will never ever see hard surface or a road type ground. Our 20 acres is all woods and sand.

Put it in 4wd and forget where the lever is.

Yes, it may wear some components a bit, and I suppose someday my 24-year-old JD that's run in 4wd it's entire life (except those few times it's been on pavement) will display some issue from that. And it did wear out the front tires after 20 years, about time they needed to be replaced from dry rot.

It's simply not worth thinking about.

 

[5030]

I only use 4x4 when I start getting stuck.

Exactly

It's not really 4 wheel drive, though manufacturers use that term. It is, in reality, Front Wheel Assist for when the situation demands front wheel traction.

All front wheel assist does is put adverse wear on front axle components when using it in situations where the rear wheel drive will provide adequate traction (like paved surfaces for instance).

Put another way, do you keep the differential lock (if you have one), engaged all the time? Of course not. Why then would you keep the front wheel assist engaged all the time either?

Guess if you have a smaller unit, replacing tires isn't all that big of a cost, but on my units, tire replacement runs into the thousands of dollars. Just replaced all 4 on one tractor to the tune of 5500 bucks.

 

[Gee Ray]

I run a Kubota L2501 in Florida. Being a Yankee what I am going to be telling you is counterintuitive to me. Dry sand is hard to transverse. Use the 4 x 4. Muck is 4 x 4 areas. Wet sand is very easy to compact and will carry your tractor very well without the need of the 4 x 4.

If you make roads to cross your property the 4 x 4 will disturb the ground as you make turns. In 2 x 4 the roads will require less repair.

 

[Grandad4]

Well this thread shows everyone figures out what works best for their own situation. Whatever else you do, if you're going up/down slopes, engage the 4wd since these tractors only have brakes on the rear axle. That gives braking to all 4 wheels!

 

[old and tired]

...I run my RPMs 15-1800...

Is this HST? I would be closer to the 2100 rpms that your tractor is rated for. If you have the gear tractor, running lower like you said is fine... Also, what tires are you running? I have R4 - industrial and they are worthless in 2 wheel drive. I would not worry about running in 4x4 if your soil is sandy... If you have R1's Ag tires, you might not see much of a benefit from 4x4.

 

[Hay Dude]

Exactly

It's not really 4 wheel drive, though manufacturers use that term. It is, in reality, Front Wheel Assist for when the situation demands front wheel traction.

All front wheel assist does is put adverse wear on front axle components when using it in situations where the rear wheel drive will provide adequate traction (like paved surfaces for instance).

Put another way, do you keep the differential lock (if you have one), engaged all the time? Of course not. Why then would you keep the front wheel assist engaged all the time either?

Guess if you have a smaller unit, replacing tires isn't all that big of a cost, but on my units, tire replacement runs into the thousands of dollars. Just replaced all 4 on one tractor to the tune of 5500 bucks.

No joke, you have told that story 10 times in the past year.
WE KNOW!!!! Lol

Running all the time in 4wd also causes front tires to wear more rapidly, since they spin at a slightly different speed. Tires ARE expensive and front tires wear out faster than rears on 4wd tractors.
Why accelerate the wear by running in 4wd all the time when it’s not needed?

 

[Jstpssng]

This is an ongoing discussion. If you wait to shift into 4WD until you need it, often it's too late. As you use your tractor more and get the feel for it you will find your own answers. I'm in 4WD about 50% of the time when working the tractor, and all of the time if I'm using the loader. As somebody else has already pointed out; there are no brakes on front. In 2WD you only have the rear axle slowing or stopping you.