Kubota post hole digger question

[Deleted member 347538]

Hello everyone. I知 looking for a post hole digger for my 2019 Kubota BX2380. I wonder If anyone here has used the CountyLine 602377 3-Point Post Hole Digger From Tractor Suppl? I know there are a few other options but theyæ±*e a lot more expensive so figured I壇 see if it値l work. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Peter 315]

It will work but it might stall the tractor the add shows (The PHD is designed for up to 100 HP tractors, the shear bolt design protects the drive system of the implement and tractor from loads over 40 hp) so it might not break the shear bolt you could always change it.....:2cents:

 

[cglaser104]

I have a GC1710 with that PHD. Different brand but same class of tractor. As you can see the PHD switches classes by way of a rotating knuckle that is sized for either a cat1 or cat2 toplink pin. Given the tight spacing and the fact this thing is built to be on a cat 2 system it was simply too heavily built for my tractor. The biggest issue for me was needing to cut out a notch from the PHD mounting plate to have enough clearance to lift the digger. I can drive the PHD with my PTO no problem but you need to be conservative with how hard you let it bite or it'll bury itself.

 

[Tinhack]

Wow! That TS link didn't do anything except display 10 pages of ads.

Yeah, I would change the shear bolt to a plain-top one from a hardware store. Those will shear if you look at 'em twice. But that might save your PTO shaft.

 

[RjCorazza]

Not County Line, but I operated a very similar auger on my previous B8200 Kubota. HP wise it was fine, but I had to get inventive sometimes, like rolling the rear wheels on blocks and adding weight to the front. Certainly better than digging by hand!

I'm replacing 550' of split rail this spring, and got an ssqa mounted hydraulic auger to replace the 3pt auger. It should be fun.

 

[Deleted member 347538]

Thanks for the reply. My tractor specs say I have 17.7 pro horsepower and this is from 18 horsepower and up to 100. So I expected it to be a slight reach to operate it.

 

[Deleted member 347538]

I’ve read that a few places where you have to dig and retrieve, dig and retrieve as you slowly work your way down. That was my plan from the start. Glad to hear you’re able to run it. Thank you for the reply.

 

[Deleted member 347538]

My apologies for the link, I didn’t intend for that to happen, it seems just typing tractor supply linked itself so I edited it to remove a letter and the link. Good idea on the shear bolt. I’ll do that, thanks to both of you for mentioning that.

 

[Deleted member 347538]

I did wonder about the weight on the rear, but I assume if I go slow it’ll work out. Yes, way better than digging by hand!

 

[RjCorazza]

I’ve read that a few places where you have to dig and retrieve, dig and retrieve as you slowly work your way down. That was my plan from the start. Glad to hear you’re able to run it. Thank you for the reply.

Slow and easy wins the race. Screwing the auger into the ground is a mistake only made once!

 

[Deleted member 347538]

I hear ya. I’m sure itll happen to me early on but lesson learned. Thanks for the reply.

 

[Peter 315]

If you lived close to me you could use my post hole digger......

 

[Deleted member 347538]

I appreciate that but we’re ages away. Lol.

 

[CobyRupert]

I’ve read that a few places where you have to dig and retrieve, dig and retrieve as you slowly work your way down. That was my plan from the start. Glad to hear you’re able to run it. Thank you for the reply.

^This. Small bites. Lower, dig for couple inches, raise, let dirt spin off, repeat.
Many a digger has taken too big of a bite only for auger to corkscrew into ground and not have enough 3 point hitch power to raise it back out. PTO has no reverse. Never done it, but I hear turning a stuck one backwards by hand is no fun.
What size auger are you looking at running?

 

[Michael In Tennessee]

I'm replacing 550' of split rail this spring, and got an ssqa mounted hydraulic auger to replace the 3pt auger. It should be fun.

Sorry to take this thread sideways, but what auger did you get that worked for your tractor's flow rate? I might need an auger soon.

 

[EddieWalker]

I don't know about your tractor and post hole diggers, or the gear box on the Countryline post hole digger, but I can comment on the auger itself. I have a 37 hp tractor and I bought a Leinbach Line post hole digger with a terrible auger. I replaced it with a Speeco auger that was a lot better, but the replaceable cutting teeth would wear out quickly. The store I bought it from had a few in stock, but when I bought all of them, they never got any more. So in desperation, I went to Tractor Supply and bought a Countryline 12 inch auger.

The Countryline auger was so much better at digging then what I had before that I cannot even compare how good it is. It went through my summer baked hard red clay like butter. Then when it hit what I call the concrete grey layer of clay, it went right through that too!!! In fact, it drills so quickly that I have to make sure to slow it down because it will bury itself and I don't have enough power to turn it once it's all the way in the ground. I have a 24 inch pipe wrench that I put a 8 foot pipe onto for more leverage that will unscrew it, or I can just use my backhoe and pull it out of the ground and make the hole twice as big as it comes up. I've done this a dozen times now, and it's always something that I promise myself that I will never do again. But then I do it again.

I got the crazy idea to buy a 6 inch auger for some smaller holes so I wouldn't have to fill as much material around them. That went in even faster and so deep that it bent my driveshaft. That might be the biggest mistake I ever made in drilling holes!!!

If I was buying a 3 point post hole pole hole digger today, I would take the chance on the Countryline gear box and auger. I would not want an auger less then 12 inches. I've done enough fencing to know how hard it is to keep 3 posts in perfect alignment. More fence posts are even harder. It doesn't matter how perfectly you start the hole, it moves as it's going down. Roots, rocks and softer dirt will all change where the hole is and you will have to use a clam shell digger to manually shave off one side of the hole to get it perfect. A smaller auger will mean more digging by hand to line up your posts.

 

[senecak19]

Sorry to take this thread sideways, but what auger did you get that worked for your tractor's flow rate? I might need an auger soon.

Was wondering the same thing?

I rented a bobcat version for my fathers skid steer but didn’t think a 3rd function on our machines would turn one.

 

[RjCorazza]

Sorry to take this thread sideways, but what auger did you get that worked for your tractor's flow rate? I might need an auger soon.

It's a Land Pride SA20, with the low flow head. Messicks demoed one on a smaller machine than mine on YouTube, and it seemed to do ok. The low flow head is rated for 6-10gpm flow.
I've only drilled a few test holes and it did fine in my Maryland clay. The auger doesn't spin as fast as my 3 point auger, but that's not really a fair comparison. The down pressure and reversing the auger should be awesome!

 

[Michael In Tennessee]

It's a Land Pride SA20, with the low flow head. Messicks demoed one on a smaller machine than mine on YouTube, and it seemed to do ok. The low flow head is rated for 6-10gpm flow.
I've only drilled a few test holes and it did fine in my Maryland clay. The auger doesn't spin as fast as my 3 point auger, but that's not really a fair comparison. The down pressure and reversing the auger should be awesome!

Thanks.

 

[CobyRupert]

I know this has been asked before, but I’ve never heard if it works: Has anyone ever got the auger stuck and then (manually) turned the PTO shaft backwards, taking advantage of the PHD’s gearbox reduction?