Sicma finish mower revival I need help if someone has spare time and good online

[1930]

Some of you may remember this thread https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/428272-good-deal.html?highlight=

Ive decided its time to buy the parts.

I need all 4 forks, 3 are bent/re-welded basically junk and 1 was missing completely, I found a source online here Login : but the deal seems now

A- to good to be true
B- I never received a confirming e-mail that my order had been placed
C- Im now guessing its coming from overseas and yes I was ignorant enough not to have known that initially AKA didnt bother to look where it was coming from since Im not in a rush to get it
D- See A

I also will possibly order 4 new tires from e-bay, they are 179.76 for 4 of them and I like them cause they are solid OEM and not junk that Im assuming Ill have to mess with later on. Sicma 1" X 3" Solid Wheel 662739 for 6" and 72" finish mowers | eBay

I may just use the 3 that I have, I know they are solid but I do not know if that means solid/solid as in Id be stupid to not use these even though there are cuts/gashes and basically beat to ****.

Whats your opinions?

Ive also had to order this Sicma Finish Mower Solid Wheel Mounting Kit fits GM3 Series 662739 Wheel | eBay kit cause again one wheel was already missing and so I dont have it. Best deal I could find online

I also need this DRIVE PULLEY - Parts For Sitrex, First Choice, Caroni, & Howse Mowers - Blades, Belts, And More drive pulley from this https://www.tractorpartscentral.com...en=CTGY&Store_Code=TPC3&Category_Code=FCFM60& or similar site.

I think the price is ridiculous. Can someone tell me where I can find a pulley cheaper. Sadly I have never had to identify a pulley to go online and order on so I do not know the per-requisites to ensure I get this correct.

As you can see mine is junk.

I guess Im gonna need a puller to get this one off? Im hoping its a common puller that I prob have.

Im gonna order the manual/parts listing book as well from same place https://www.tractorpartscentral.com/store/product/FCFM60/FM-MANUAL.htm and it looks like Im not gonna have a choice but to order their spanner wrench https://www.tractorpartscentral.com/store/product/FCFM60/SW-15.htm cause I do not seem to have any other ideas of getting the spindles disassembled for cleaning ect.

Can someone tell me how to stop the blade or pulley from turning whilst Im trying to get the nut off the top with the special wrench Im fixin to order?

I know maybe the thing looks like junk but the deck is solid, minor surface rust underneath, no rust through, super heavy steel throughout. The gearbox support plate looks the worst and the steel on that is 3/8 thick and rust is technically minor surface rust.

Thanks

 

[1930]

So I might have 400-1000 in parts at the most and have what Ive read is a really nice mower for the rest of my life

 

[DK35vince]

All I ever needed for my 84" First Choice (Sicma) was blades and belts. (Got my belts matched locally)
I just got the blades from here First Choice - Parts For Sitrex, First Choice, Caroni, & Howse Mowers - Blades, Belts, And More and they came quick and easy.
Never needed enough parts to look for cheaper prices

 

[Xfaxman]

-----------------------------------------------------

Can someone tell me how to stop the blade or pulley from turning whilst Im trying to get the nut off the top with the special wrench Im fixin to order?


Thanks

For blades, I put a C clamp on the housing so that the blade comes up against it and can not turn.

 

[1930]

For blades, I put a C clamp on the housing so that the blade comes up against it and can not turn.

I tried vice grips and no luck, Ill try a c clamp. Thanks

 

[chim]

I have a spare drive pulley for Caroni, and according to some info I saw it may be the same one. I can get measurements and pics if you want. I refurbed a 90" and more recently a 5 footer. The two shared a number of parts, so after using a third deck for a "donor" there are parts left over.

If you have it that far apart, I'd recommend a good cleaning of the shaft the drive pulley is connected to and replacement of the lower oil seal. This is assuming yours is similar to mine.

I'd spend a lot of time on the Agri Supply site looking at parts before plunking the VISA down somewhere else. I'd bet that a lot of parts are common between brands, such as wheels and forks. I've done a fair amount of business with AS and wish they'd have one somewhere North of the Mason Dixon Line.

To remove the spanner nuts on the top ends of the quills (spindles) I give them a shot of penetrant and use a drift punch and a light hammer to get the nuts spinning. A pair of Channellock pliers (preferably curved jaw) is useful after they break loose and for reinstallation. I haven't needed anything much to hold the blade. Often used Channellock "Big Azz" to grab the pulley itself. Gotta be careful not to scratch the belt-ridden surface, or clean it up when you do.

I have two methods of straightening the stems on the forks. One is with an old hand-pumped conduit bender. It works best on the ones that aren't bent real close to either end of the stem. The other is a cobblefabbed thick steel plate welded to an insert for my receiver hitch on the truck. Poke the stem through the hole and with a long heavy square tube to apply pressure it works well. For odd bends, a 12# hammer and appropriate support works OK.

Here's link to one of the decks I refurbed:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...rfm-restoration.html?highlight=caroni+rebuild

 

[1930]

I have a spare drive pulley for Caroni, and according to some info I saw it may be the same one. I can get measurements and pics if you want. I refurbed a 90" and more recently a 5 footer. The two shared a number of parts, so after using a third deck for a "donor" there are parts left over.

If you have it that far apart, I'd recommend a good cleaning of the shaft the drive pulley is connected to and replacement of the lower oil seal. This is assuming yours is similar to mine.

I'd spend a lot of time on the Agri Supply site looking at parts before plunking the VISA down somewhere else. I'd bet that a lot of parts are common between brands, such as wheels and forks. I've done a fair amount of business with AS and wish they'd have one somewhere North of the Mason Dixon Line.

To remove the spanner nuts on the top ends of the quills (spindles) I give them a shot of penetrant and use a drift punch and a light hammer to get the nuts spinning. A pair of Channellock pliers (preferably curved jaw) is useful after they break loose and for reinstallation. I haven't needed anything much to hold the blade. Often used Channellock "Big Azz" to grab the pulley itself. Gotta be careful not to scratch the belt-ridden surface, or clean it up when you do.

I have two methods of straightening the stems on the forks. One is with an old hand-pumped conduit bender. It works best on the ones that aren't bent real close to either end of the stem. The other is a cobblefabbed thick steel plate welded to an insert for my receiver hitch on the truck. Poke the stem through the hole and with a long heavy square tube to apply pressure it works well. For odd bends, a 12# hammer and appropriate support works OK.

Here's link to one of the decks I refurbed:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...rfm-restoration.html?highlight=caroni+rebuild

Approx diam of pulley is 9 inches. Approx width is 1 5/8. I do not have it off yet to see the shaft size. Thanks, I do not have the time right now to do an outstanding job of restoring this mower as you did. Id only like to get it operational whilst doing a correct long lasting job.

 

[1930]

Im trying to get the blades loose, at this point the nut is turning and so is the pulley up top but of course the blade has been stopped from turning. I do not know the direction of loosening so I have tried it both ways with the same results. Does not turn easily in either direction.

Any suggestions?

Obviously the bade is not indexed anyway on the shaft and the shaft is just spinning which makes no sense. Id guess the blades have never been removed. Badly abused mower.

Not only the shaft on the forks are bent but the forks themselves. Junk

They really should have made a few flat spots for a wrench

Edit: I thought to myself as I typed that I needed to look closer and yes there are flat spots and I have one loosened now thankfully. Im gonna do the others

 

[the old grind]

I would soak those blade bolts o'night and use an impact wrench. No fun if you snap off one of the heads.

Skip WD-40 and go for PBlaster, Kroil, 50/50 ATF & acetone, Breakaway, Gibbs, Free All, Mouse Milk, even Windex.

Apply sparingly several times on both sides of the blades.

Keep bearings in mind if you add a hammer-smack to each bolt-head before you muscle on 'em.

 

[1930]

I would soak those blade bolts o'night and use an impact wrench. No fun if you snap off one of the heads.

Skip WD-40 and go for PBlaster, Kroil, 50/50 ATF & acetone, Breakaway, Gibbs, Free All, Mouse Milk, even Windex.

Apply sparingly several times on both sides of the blades.

Keep bearings in mind if you add a hammer-smack to each bolt-head before you muscle on 'em.

Thanks but they came off kinda sorta easy once I was able to find the flat spots behind the blade to place my wrench.

 

[chim]

Here are some pictures. OD is right at 9-1/16". Width is 1-3/4". Hole for shaft is about 1.365". The hub is flush with one side and about 5/16" proud on the other. It's in nice condition, just a little oily from a previous life on a deck that leaked 90 weight

Hope this helps.

 

[1930]

Looks good. Let me get this pulley off tomm so I can measure shaft better with a mic but in the meantime do you think this is about the same?

Im gonna prob have to cut it off cause pulling on it will prob just crumble it. Yours looks cast iron, mines stamped steel, do you think the weight difference will matter any? Id guess not but Im not an expert. Pm sent on a price

 

[chim]

Looks good. Let me get this pulley off tomm so I can measure shaft better with a mic but in the meantime do you think this is about the same?

Im gonna prob have to cut it off cause pulling on it will prob just crumble it. Yours looks cast iron, mines stamped steel, do you think the weight difference will matter any? Id guess not but Im not an expert. Pm sent on a price

I don't know if they're interchangeable or not. There are some parts that are listed for 3 or 4 brands of Italian mowers, but I haven't seen this pulley being one of them. It would be nice if it works. It is cast iron and would last a real long time.

Pay close attention to the offset (hub isn't centered on the pulley - flush one side, sticks out the other). My one son is an engineer and could take some seriously accurate measurements if it looks close.

 

[1930]

I don't know if they're interchangeable or not. There are some parts that are listed for 3 or 4 brands of Italian mowers, but I haven't seen this pulley being one of them. It would be nice if it works. It is cast iron and would last a real long time.

Pay close attention to the offset (hub isn't centered on the pulley - flush one side, sticks out the other). My one son is an engineer and could take some seriously accurate measurements if it looks close.

Ok, will get this one off at some point this week and report back. Thanks

 

[chim]

Found a picture of the "Roncomatic Mower Wheel Fork Straighteners". First photo is the one used most often Pretty simple plug-in for the receiver hitch, support it and hang on a big cheater. Next three are using the old hydraulic conduit bender.

 

[1930]

I thought Id update this thread a little showing my progress, I sandblasted the gear mount cause it was absolutely ate up with rust and the worst ( besides the pulley under it ) piece of the mower. Ive since painted it, I dont plan to restore this mower, I plan to use it so I didnt bother to fill in the deep pits before painting.

If I do too nice of a job I wont want to use the mower.

Anyhow I need to mention what a help Chim has been for me, not only did he send me the large pulley I needed for under the gearbox for the cost of shipping ( its a cast iron unit as apposed to the cheap stamped unit originally equipped ) he is also sending me the other 3 smaller pulleys because mine are pitted badly and will lead to faster belt wear.

Ive blued the gears inside the gearbox and surprisingly the pattern looks good which of course means nothing is bent or overly worn.

Im picking at this thing a little at a time.

Im in need of decals, Im guessing someone can make them but everyones been asking me for some sort of computer file which I do not have, can anyone make any suggestions?

 

[1930]

Making more progress, after sandblasting the deck I found some minor pin holes which Ive welded up.

Straightened a bunch of damaged metal ect. I think whomever was using this mower wasnt the one paying for it.

Pricing my cost for paint Ive decided to have it powder coated, cheaper than paint and will last longer. 80.00 just for a quart of epoxy primer ect ect. Makes no sense.

Again Im not gonna fill in any of the deeply pitted areas cause its gonna be a user and I dont want to get into restoring this thing to sit and never get used.

I also am having the decals made up, cost is only 75.00 and we use this place often to replicate hard to find stripe kits that are no longer avail on some of these Mustangs ect. They are basically having to re-create the entire thing and in my opinion they have given me a heck of a deal.

Thanks again to Chim for the pulleys, they arrived and are in great condition, seemingly exact duplicates to what my mower had on it.

This thing is definitely rougher than I thought but Im about at the hump now and things should start going together soon enough.

I hope someone finds motivation for their own project seeing mine.

 

[1930]

Can anyone tell me how these spindles come apart, Im sure I could figure it out but always easier to ask. If it means having to replace seals than Id pass at this point.

I dont see any signs of leaking, they turn very smoothly and I can prob. just take them to the blast cabinet and cover the parts I dont want to sand with some duct tape.

Also Id like to replace this one arm, I cant imagine how hard someone had to hit something to bend this 1/2 steel but they did it good. No matter what I do it will never be truly straight again. Thanks

 

[Halftrack]

Brooksagparts.com in Ohio has your lift arm replacement. I bought a couple a few years ago for another project. Nice restoration and good luck.

 

[1930]

Thanks, I see it there

I figure by the time I done I could have bought a brand new cheaper mower I.E county line or equivalent but Id bet that this mower that I have is all day long comparable to a 3-5 thousand woods mower in overall quality.

Deck and related metal ( there is no sheetmetal other than the belt covers ) is roughly 1/8 + steel where as I know a cheaper mower is much thinner thinner stamped steel.

In my opinion the only thing Sicma dropped the ball on was the pulleys, they should have used a cast version that wouldnt rot.

This mower will last my lifetime and much more and will be easy to maintain after Im done with it.

Yes Im trying to make myself feel better for spending so much money on an old mower.