7018 weld advise. Pics.

/ 7018 weld advise. Pics. #1  

Hersheyfarm

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I want to lay better beads with my stick. I go a wile not using it then a big project comes up and I have to start over it seems. I am making notes this time of amperage and speed. Right now doing the 7018. These welds are 1/8 rod at about 135 amp. I was closer to 160 but it seemed too hot. Next I will do the 6011.

Are these welds a little cold and slow? It is what it seems to me.

AFA00ECB-A5A1-4325-AC85-ECC866ED1590.jpeg
 
/ 7018 weld advise. Pics. #2  
Weld profile looks like you are running too slow and maybe a little too cold (at least on the bottom two beads). I assume this is welded in 1F (flat) position. The machine might be OK for vertical welding at this amp setting. Flat welding can take more amps. As long as you arent getting undercut on the sides and not getting a lot of spatter, more amps is better and faster.
 
/ 7018 weld advise. Pics.
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I did some hotter and faster ones. Little flatter. Need to practice arc size and rod position i think.
4C82BD07-970C-423B-B6AE-CC1C477BC38A.jpeg
 
/ 7018 weld advise. Pics. #4  
Depends on the machine but we mostly ran about 100 amps with 1/8 6010 and 3/32" 7018 for pipe in all positions.DC reverse polarity.
 
/ 7018 weld advise. Pics. #5  
1, ain't seein wagon tracks so you can go up on amps.
2, you doin buildup, not joint so deposit naturally tend to be high.
3, saw across deposit and polish to see how you penetrating - top picture only part of story.
4, spread pieces apart for gap = half of thickness and run pass to see better picture of what you get in joint rather den build.

Birdman pretty right, 100 amps± on dem 2 rods pretty much standard. Works well because 100 on 1/8 delivers lower heat for root wid fast freeze rod and on 3/32 puts more heat in de pass due to higher current density in de arc. Saves lot of walkin back to machine to adjust too..
 
/ 7018 weld advise. Pics.
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Ok so I put 1/8 gap in. Didnt have a good time. Blew a hole right right off bat. Did 2 passes. Need practice on filling gaps, all though not sure why. Everything I fit up is as tight as I can get it. I think 6011 would be better for gaps for me.
 

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/ 7018 weld advise. Pics. #7  
You done what I expected. Call it Tuition and move ahead.
Like de Birdman said run de root wid 6010, chop all de slag out and look at ugly bottom of valley.

Before dat, run couple inch flat pass on top of plate and pay attention to how fast de deposit sets up. Den widout changing machine setting run pass of 7018 next to 6010 and watch set up speed.
6010 is FAST FREEZE rod actually descended from original Fleetweld of 1920s. Real good for getting weldment stuck together, not so good for fill and looks.

Then run stringer along bottom of gully to give you base to build on. Finish filling with 7018.

Once you get de hang of it work on travel speed to get height of deposit to what you desire.
 
/ 7018 weld advise. Pics. #8  
My machine I run 1/8 6011 @ ~ 100. 1/8 e7018 Lincolns 120-135. Really like these Lincoln sticks.
 
/ 7018 weld advise. Pics. #9  
Laying the rod over too far while welding?
 
/ 7018 weld advise. Pics.
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Laying the rod over too far while welding?

are you talking about rod angle? Yea I'm not a perpendicular welder and should probably straighten up. plus I drag, haven't tried pushing.
 
/ 7018 weld advise. Pics.
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Cant find any 6010. got plenty of 6011. I've seen 6010 mentioned here a couple times, are they better for root weld?
 
/ 7018 weld advise. Pics. #14  
are you talking about rod angle? Yea I'm not a perpendicular welder and should probably straighten up. plus I drag, haven't tried pushing.

How far from vertical are you holding the rod? Most times I'm around 30 degrees. The 6010/6011 rods are good digging rods so they get good penetration. The 7018 are good cover rods because they add lots of extra metal for fill. That is why the rods are thick and need more amps.
 
/ 7018 weld advise. Pics.
  • Thread Starter
#15  
How far from vertical are you holding the rod? Most times I'm around 30 degrees. The 6010/6011 rods are good digging rods so they get good penetration. The 7018 are good cover rods because they add lots of extra metal for fill. That is why the rods are thick and need more amps.

I measured and am around 30 degree-ish dragging.

So i did this 1/8 gap with a 6011. Dcep. I dont fool with 60xx rods much. Ugly and hot. But now I understand their use so will start to play with more. They are hot but dont burn through like a silky smooth 7018 that wont dry up.
 

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/ 7018 weld advise. Pics. #16  
Way back in ancient time when I had to paddle upstream to and home from school I learn most important thing in welding is knowin when to STOP welding. Don't matter O/A, stick was all we had back den, you either know to STOP or you sweep de weld off de floor.

Was I sittin next to guy tryin to learn its pretty easy, and I can holler stop and den tell man what he doin wrong. Funnier thing, I been at it so long lot of things just natural and sort of automatic, don't even think bout what being done or why. Dat automation needs to get parked for teachin and every step needs get covered.

Gets worse when fellow comes along don't know gas and sure O/A obsolete wid no value. Watched a ESAB video wid man from de Weld.com outfit layin a picture perfect TIG root on 4 maybe 5" pipe thru de hole. Nice demo even tho he didn't slide de arc off a penny like pipeline guys normally do. Ran de cover wid MIG as I recall, and stood der tellin audience how much more he would have enjoyed making dat weld wid O/A. Most audience just lookin at him like he nuts. Pretty easy to see audience got no idea how to run a torch around a pipe or what's happening in de pool. Other thing none dem kids ever get is joy of keepin yer hand in and little gloating when you sit back lookin at job few men can still do. Kids won't learn, dey just want paycheck and quality is Can't see it from my house.

Present situation de student got a few issues goin on. Sorta began wid not knowing his rods and what dey do in puddle. Think maybe we gettin dat straightened up.

Next problem, take your pick, rod angle & or travel speed. From dis seat de man needs to keep runnin root passes in gully till he can do widout thinkin bout every step. Muscle memory thing.
Human nature bein such as it is, man tends to say I got root down, and rush to cover passes. WRONG approach from dis seat. Kids tend to get hung up on new and next tho, was such back before devices, probably in between ears.

Cover pretty much walk in park, TILL you get to de end. Got a porch, no problem, weld out, cut porch off grind to suit and pick up check. Got no porch, another technique needs learnin.

Someplace along dis road we gotta work in too how far you weld before you step over and let what you laid in cool so you don't hear PING or feared BOING. Don't think we gonna cover mounting vibrator to run overnight to remove stresses, might scare girlymen.

Let de good times roll on (english version)
 
/ 7018 weld advise. Pics.
  • Thread Starter
#17  
So what痴 the goal with the edges? Burn wider? Bevel the edges? Run colder?
 

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/ 7018 weld advise. Pics. #18  
I measured and am around 30 degree-ish dragging.

So i did this 1/8 gap with a 6011. Dcep. I dont fool with 60xx rods much. Ugly and hot. But now I understand their use so will start to play with more. They are hot but dont burn through like a silky smooth 7018 that wont dry up.

6010-6011, generic for Fleetweld 5P or 5P+. All began back in 20s when James Lincoln was crossin America on trains trying to sell Loncoln Fleetweld to weld ship hulls.. It was most probably first generation beyond bare steel rod, and all reports say was miserable to run either up or down hill. Rod stayed miserable for thru Depression to degree one builder developed & patented building hulls on rotisserie. Grindin lumps out of Fleetweld passes probably consumed weight of wheels equal to rods burned.

Became Fleetweld 5 during War and some got lot better running vertical and overhead. Grinding wheel maker still loved 5P. Lincoln spent money in labs and out comes Fleetweld 5P+ wid salesmen passin out 5 pound samples. Them salesmen were welders who been coached back in factory to squeeze dem rods for all dey had. Dey also taught welders how to do same. Trade schools got lot of 5P+ along wid machines at low price and turned out some good hands, with plenty visits from both Lincoln & Hobart Bros salesman/instructors.

Someplace later probably 70s 5P++ came along. Still Fast Freeze designed for roots, and able to dig and accommodate a bucket of dirt too long as all you cared bout was stuck.

Back den pretty much industry standard was weld joint delivered 50% strength of 2 sections welded together. You need more add fish plates & gussets. Rivets & bolts delivered more strength for the buck.
 
/ 7018 weld advise. Pics. #19  
So whatç—´ the goal with the edges? Burn wider? Bevel the edges? Run colder?

Goal at de edge is fer it to look just like rest of pass after quick hit wid grinder.

You gonna get all worked up and cryin if I tell you we deal wid edge AFTER you can run a few rods worth of weld?
 
/ 7018 weld advise. Pics.
  • Thread Starter
#20  
You gonna get all worked up and cryin if I tell you we deal wid edge AFTER you can run a few rods worth of weld?

Lol no. Especially when it comes in cartoon form.
 

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