GC1700 Rear Jack Stand Placement

[hube2]

I have a GC1725M (<15 hours on it) and I just ordered 2" wheel spacers and I was planning the work and where I will put the jack stands.

Since the 50 hour maintenance requires removing the left rear wheel to check/clean the suction filter I figured I could look at video of others doing it to see where they put their stands.... in two of the videos they didn't do this part of the maintenance so they were useless and in the 3rd the stands stood there unused in the video with the guy under his tractor, probably got the tractor jacked up and couldn't figure out where to put them.

The stand is from the 70s and was made for holding up cars built at the time, rated at 4000 pounds, and since the tractor weighs in at about 1500 I figure I'm safe there.

Since I've never worked on a tractor of this size and I don't have experience in the best place to put a stand, I thought someone that's a little more safety conscious or maybe has experience with using stands on this tractor could tell me if my planned placement looks good. If you can't tell from the picture this is the frame just above axle.

 

[Rebeldad1]

if it were me and the differential is centered.... Put a block of wood on a floor jack and lift it.
Looks like neither axle would be good and I sure wouldnt lift it from the side of the case

 

[hube2]

if it were me and the differential is centered.... Put a block of wood on a floor jack and lift it.
Looks like neither axle would be good and I sure wouldnt lift it from the side of the case

That isn't the site of the case. That is the frame where that the case is mounted to. Not a lot of horizontal surfaces on the bottom of these things and I really don't want to jack it up or hold it up using the transmission case.

 

[MoMower]

I just put the jack on the backhoe horns, no stands, you don’t really have to go under it to get the suction filter out

 

[hube2]

I just put the jack on the backhoe horns, no stands, you don’t really have to go under it to get the suction filter out

No backhoe, if I had that I could just use that to lift the back and not need a jack. Even if I could do that I'd still want the stands holding something that does not move, call me a safety fanatic.

While I was looking at maintenance videos to see placement of stands, this is not really about the suction filter, I need to remove the wheels to add spacers.

To be honest, I would have the dealer do it but I am currently displeased with them. I need space to put on chains. There is only 1/8 inch clearance between the chains and the bracket that holds my break cable (1/2 inch without the chains & 3/8 inch chains). I was uncomfortable with this spacing so I called the dealer. They took the tractor and flipped the wheels, they told me they could not get me spacers. But it only gained me 1/4 of an inch and I am sill uncomfortable having only 3/8 inch clearance. I'm a little unhappy because they should have known that this would not give me a safe clearance and that flipping the wheels was useless on a GC1725M. Anyway, I've determined that I'll now be doing my own maintenance, I have plenty of experience doing my own work. But at the same time it means that I need to have both rear wheels off to flip them back again (R1 Tires) and I want to make doubly sure on the stand placement.

 

[hube2]

Maybe I'm just old an paranoid, but I can't believe the number of videos I've found showing people working on their tractors with a wheel off and supported by nothing but a jack.

But I did find something useful AGCO DIY Series: How to change the hydraulic and transmission oil and filters-Massey Ferguson GC17 - YouTube at about 1:30, jack stand under the axle.

I will have to reevaluate my work plan.

But I am getting old and paranoid because I wouldn't even take the wheel off without a stand to back up that jack.

 

[WranglerX]

I just raised the rear with jack under differential and a put jack strand under the drawbar (yes its a rigids steel framework attached to tractor chassis) ... Actually it was only there incase jack failed, not actually bearing load of tractor....And only did one side at a time so the side with wheel still on sort of acted like a counterbalance...

Dale

 

[MoMower]

Maybe I'm just old an paranoid, but I can't believe the number of videos I've found showing people working on their tractors with a wheel off and supported by nothing but a jack.

But I did find something useful AGCO DIY Series: How to change the hydraulic and transmission oil and filters-Massey Ferguson GC17 - YouTube at about 1:30, jack stand under the axle.

I will have to reevaluate my work plan.

But I am getting old and paranoid because I wouldn't even take the wheel off without a stand to back up that jack.

Meh, to each their own.

Lift on the drawbar and put the stands on the frame just in front of the rear axle?

 

[Dmacleo]

on the GC1710 i ran, the GC1723 I presently run I would use the stabilizers to lift either one or both sides (depending if 1 or 2 tires being removed) place jack stands under the backhoe frame at just about even with the end of the tractor drawbar plate.

on the GC2400 I presently own I jack up place stands under tractor frame itself just slightly fwd of the U Frame. I usually drive up onto wheel ramps jack up just enough to remove a ramp and place stands then lower. this gives me lot of height fast with minimal jacking of actual load. with bucket on and raised about 18" before going onto ramps/jacking the weight of bucket moves tilt moment further fwd so stands hold securely there.

 

[cdaigle430]

If you can, def. use the frame as the jack stand point. Was not easy when I placed the axle pivot seals but it is doable.

 

[hube2]

If you can, def. use the frame as the jack stand point. Was not easy when I placed the axle pivot seals but it is doable.

I have been getting antsy while I wait on my spacers to arrive. I did a test on the location I was planning. Those old jack stands fit the frame nearly perfect. I found that it's practically impossible to only jack one side of this tractor off the ground and jacking on either side of the draw bar will lift both sides but unevenly. Jacking in the center lifts up both sides evenly and everything seems stable with a stand under either side of the frame. I also have a set of newer stands like the one shown in the video I linked to, I plan to put these under the axles after I take the wheels off, these stands with the larger curved support on the top would be extremely hard to place under the frame. I also have wheel chocks for both front wheels. I don't believe that you can ever be too cautious. In my life I have seen all kinds of jacks and I've seen them all fail in one way or another, luckily without any disastrous consequences, and I hope to keep it that way.

Now if those spacers would just arrive.... It's going to be a sunny day here on Saturday, cold, but sunny.

I will try to post some images when I do the work for others interested in these wheel spacers for this tractor, probably in a new thread though.

 

[WranglerX]

About the spacers.... Stuff a bit of hose or what ever in socket so bolts can not bottom out in socket, you want about 1/32 to 1/16 or so of head (hex portion) showing below socket.... The reason is IF you let bolts bottom out in socket it lets socket go to deep into hole and it will bind as you bring bolts up to to torque.... Been there, done that, no "T" shirt....

Dale

 

[hube2]

About the spacers.... Stuff a bit of hose or what ever in socket so bolts can not bottom out in socket, you want about 1/32 to 1/16 or so of head (hex portion) showing below socket.... The reason is IF you let bolts bottom out in socket it lets socket go to deep into hole and it will bind as you bring bolts up to to torque.... Been there, done that, no "T" shirt....

Dale

Thanks, I will keep that in mind. I did contact Richard at Bro-Teck about the need for a thin walled socket because I read many threads here about these spacers before I made my purchase and there was mention of needing a thin walled socket. He told me that there have been some recent design changes that removed this need.

 

[WranglerX]

Thanks, I will keep that in mind. I did contact Richard at Bro-Teck about the need for a thin walled socket because I read many threads here about these spacers before I made my purchase and there was mention of needing a thin walled socket. He told me that there have been some recent design changes that removed this need.

I did not need a thin wall socket, but discovered the depth of bolt head in socket to be critical... Maybe with newer design my solution does not apply.... Torqueing first bolt will tell....

Adding spacers was the best thing I have ever done.... Tractor is so much more stable...

Dale

 

[hube2]

I did not need a thin wall socket, but discovered the depth of bolt head in socket to be critical... Maybe with newer design my solution does not apply.... Torqueing first bolt will tell....

Adding spacers was the best thing I have ever done.... Tractor is so much more stable...

Dale

While stability will be improved and it is a plus because I live on the side of a hill the main reason I want the spacers right now is this Only having 1/8th of an inch clearance is not something I feel comfortable with.

If I knew that swapping the tires would not be effective on this tractor I would have ordered the spacers a week before I did.

I am still unhappy that the dealer/shop even recommended it because they should be well aware of the fact the flipping the wheels on a GC17XX would not help.

 

[hube2]

After doing a lot of reading and research, it seems that I can't really put the jack stands in until I get the wheel off of each side. I have filled tires. I will need to jack on one side just high enough to keep the wheel on the ground but just high enough to take the tractors weight off of it. Take the wheel off and then put the jack stand under the axle. Put the spacer on one side and then repeat on the other side and take that wheel and put it on the side with the spacer, put that wheel on the ground and then work on the spacer on the other side. This would be a lot easier if the dealer did not go through the useless exercise of swapping the wheels.

 

[WranglerX]

I understand you need to use jack stands but maybe its the wrong option..... Put jack under differential, raise rear put a stack of wood blocks under rigid mount draw bar and lower tractor onto blocks.... same safety concept different approach........

Also dealer recommended swopping around tire and wheels.... DUMB, can not reverse wheels on hose little tractors a simple ruler can tell you that....

Dale

 

[hube2]

Also dealer recommended swiping around tire and wheels.... DUMB, can not reverse wheels on hose little tractors a simple ruler can tell you that....

Dale

I did not think to measure the rims at the time. Partly my own fault. When I saw I only had 1/8th inch clearance with the chains on I called the dealer. I asked about wheel spacers because I'd read a couple of comments about them, but they said these were not available for this tractor and that they suggested I swap the wheels. I assumed that they knew what they were talking about. When they brought it back it was raining so I did not check it at the time. It was the next day that I measured and saw that it gained me less than 1/4 inch of additional clearance. That's when I started seriously looking into the spacers and ordered a pair from Bro-Tek. They are sitting on my kitchen table now waiting for tomorrow's adventure.



I do plan on putting something under the frame, just in case, but I figure it'll take some precision jacking to get the weight off the wheel but still have the wheel on the ground. I seriously doubt I have any way to have the weight of the tractor supported by anything other than the jack and be able to get the precise height that I'll need. I figure that with the fill the wheel probably weighs in somewhere between 150 and 200 pounds each (not sure what the wheels weigh without the fill, but the fill should be somewhere in the 110lb range) and I don't want to either lift them off or lift them on and the only equipment I have for doing this is me. I plan to have help, but no one strong enough to help me lift the things.

 

[lpakiz]

I used to be a Class 8 (semi) mechanic. Been around truck tires my entire life. (well, not yet, anyway)
I use a long handled round nose “gravel shovel“ to lift heavy tires onto the hub. Not sure if your tires are still within the capacity of this method, but it was very easy to lift a 150# tire up to a couple inches with one hand on the top of the tire and one hand on the shovel handle. Watch your fingers if you reach into turn the hub.
You can either push down or lift up on the handle-either action will raise the tire. Try to engage the top studs first, then let the tire down. It will swing down onto the rest of the studs.

 

[Dmacleo]

I used to be a Class 8 (semi) mechanic. Been around truck tires my entire life. (well, not yet, anyway)
I use a long handled round nose å*µravel shovel to lift heavy tires onto the hub. Not sure if your tires are still within the capacity of this method, but it was very easy to lift a 150# tire up to a couple inches with one hand on the top of the tire and one hand on the shovel handle. Watch your fingers if you reach into turn the hub.
You can either push down or lift up on the handle-either action will raise the tire. Try to engage the top studs first, then let the tire down. It will swing down onto the rest of the studs.

iirc GC17x series just like the GC24x series. no wheel studs. shouldered lug BOLTS. line rim up with a hole screw bolt in a bit then do another hole.
and a flat center/hub. actually a pita to to tire work. I use similar method but with these tires normal spade works ok for me.