confused about log splitters

[Deepdrop]

I have a 2020 CX2510 and have been cutting down some trees and I'm thinking that a log splitter would be great to have. I initially thought it would be a no-brainer that I could buy one to use on my tractor. I've been reading for the last few hours and am utterly confused.
I don't split a lot of wood. I'm not in a hurry. Some of the trees are large diameter, maybe 20 inches.
I would really prefer to not buy a standalone splitter with its own engine, just because I really don't want another engine to maintain (unless there are just really really good arguments for going this route).

I do not understand the pros and cons of a 3 point vs. a PTO driven splitter.

I have a 3rd function valve that I use to run my grapple. I don't know if that would make a difference. I'm very new to tractors. This is my first one and I'm learning as I go, so please forgive my ignorance on this. I tried searching the forum but didn't find anything that seemed helpful.

I'd be very grateful if anyone can explain pros/cons of the options. Thanks very much.

 

[NYCheese]

I found a home-made 3pt splitter last year, for just 200 bucks, so I bought it quick. It runs off my rear remotes. It works well enough, but I think I'd prefer a standalone splitter. Here's my reasons:

1 - Using the rear remotes, the cylinder travel is a bit slow. Even at 2500rpm, I wish it was a little quicker.
2 - It adds a lot of hours to the tractor. I'd rather put hours on a cheaper standalone machine than on my expensive tractor engine.
3 - Because it's on the rear of the tractor, I can't use the loader to help move the wood around before and after splitting it (not as easily anyway)

I have no experience using a PTO driven splitter. I would suspect your 3rd function does not have enough flow to run a splitter with good results. It's going to be very slow.

 

[grsthegreat]

do you have rear remotes on your tractor. i dont think 3rd functions have a detent lock in them. you have to have a rear remote to operate the log splitter. on my kioti i have 2 rear remotes. one had a detent (lock) and the other does not. i use the non locking one for implements such as a snow plow that you want to move just a certain angle then stop. i use the detent remote for devices that need to constantly run like the log splitter.

personally i could care what hours are added to my DK45 cause thats what tractors are designed for...long run times. I have lots of smaller engines and they dont need much maintenance as i only use non ethanol fuel. but i want my splitter with me as i split wood out on the acreage. 3 point is easiest for me. i made my own maybe 15 years ago. as is stated, not fast but fast enough. and i still have all my fingers.

 

[sd455dan]

Not sure if this has changed much in the last 10 years or so -but back when I looked and wanted a 3 point splitter the cost was much higher to buy the tractor version versus the same splitting force stand alone unit.

In the end bought a 25 ton stand alone for just under a grand.

Having the tractor bucket/grapple available to move large rounds to the splitter ended up saving a whole lot of stress on the old back.

More TBN splitter reading

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...om/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/66248-



https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/353413-3-pt-log-splitter.html

 

[kenmbz]

I bought a separate splitter, not enough flow was not the reason.
I like to leave the splitter in one place, move wood from a number of piles to it and then tractor the split wood to my racks and pallets.
I have 2 locations where I split wood as I have places to dump off any bark or scraps. I may need to get the splitter into the woods for some trees, but that does not happen often, only have 6 acres.
I have a backhoe on the tractor and don't use implements, so swapping time is saved too. Get about 10 second cycle times with the stand alone. Check fluid levels, change oil here and there, not too bad.

 

[Captain Dirty]

. . . I'm not in a hurry. Some of the trees are large diameter, maybe 20 inches. . .I do not understand the pros and cons of a 3 point vs. a PTO driven splitter. . .

I suppose there are PTO driven splitters that are towed. If the splitter mounts to the 3 point be sure it can lower so the beam rests on the ground. That way you can roll those 20" logs onto the beam instead of lifting them. Also check that the beam can be raised to a comfortable height; my neighbor loaned me his tractor with 3 point splitter that did not raise very high--backbreaking work with the smaller logs. Regardless of whether the hydraulic flow comes from the tractor or a PTO driven pump, you want an operation lever close to the ram.

I now have a splitter with a Briggs and Straton electric motor (Log Zappa apparently from Frank's commune days). Compared with other splitters I have used, it is S-L-O-W, but now in my eighth decade, that suits me fine. The greatest expense was 100+ feet of 10-3 SO cable to make an extension cord that would reach the woodpile. The greatest hassle was finding new brushes.

 

[LouNY]

The farm has a tractor mounted vertical splitter from when they used an outside boiler.
We could split a lot of wood in a very few hours with it,
but we ran it off a Ford 8000 fast hydraulics,
on smaller stuff I'd put a large block under it to reduce the bending,
a larger loader tractor carrying a bucket of rounds to the splitter and holding at waist height,
grab a round split it and toss it, when the tossed pile got good sized shove in with the loader scoop
it up and go dump in the wood shed pile.
But we were using multiple tractors and large loader buckets 96 to 120 inches wide.

 

[NYCheese]

do you have rear remotes on your tractor. i dont think 3rd functions have a detent lock in them. you have to have a rear remote to operate the log splitter. on my kioti i have 2 rear remotes. one had a detent (lock) and the other does not. i use the non locking one for implements such as a snow plow that you want to move just a certain angle then stop. i use the detent remote for devices that need to constantly run like the log splitter.

personally i could care what hours are added to my DK45 cause thats what tractors are designed for...long run times. I have lots of smaller engines and they dont need much maintenance as i only use non ethanol fuel. but i want my splitter with me as i split wood out on the acreage. 3 point is easiest for me. i made my own maybe 15 years ago. as is stated, not fast but fast enough. and i still have all my fingers.View attachment 668431 View attachment 668432 View attachment 668433

Mine looks very similar to yours, except mine doesn't have the valve/handle on the splitter. Just the 2 hoses coming off the cylinder. So for mine, I use the spring remote, not the detent one. I fabricated a handle that slips over the lever, and comes out the rear of the tractor, for splitter operation. Pull to split, push to retract.

 

[shooterdon]

An oil change on a small engine takes me 15-20 minutes. How long does it take for you to switch out 3PH attachments.

I change the oil every 50 hours. How many times will you need to mount the 3PH splitter to split for 50 hours.

The stand alone comes with wheels and is easily moved in your garage/barn. Will you need to move the 3PH splitter when it is off the tractor? You may need to make a dolly for it.

IMHO is is nice to have the tractor freed up to help with the splitting process. But a lot depends on your process and set up.

 

[Deepdrop]

Thank you all for the info. I've never used my 3 point hitch so I don't have a sense of how long it takes to hook something up. You guys raised a couple of points I hadn't thought of. It is an advantage to have the use of my loader to move piles of wood around instead of being tied to the splitter. I was surprised that standalone units are actually much cheaper, from what I can tell. I don't have rear hydraulics, so I would need to add that expense as well.
Out of curiosity, if the engine fails on a standalone, would I be able to find a way to run it off the tractor hydraulics? Someone mentioned they did that in one of the discussions I read.
Anyway, although I started out against the idea of a standalone, now I'm leaning towards it. From what I've read, the best prices come around on Black Friday, or else early spring. So I'll see what happens on Black Friday this year. It'll give my wood some time to age.

 

[kenmbz]

If the motor fails on a standalone, can always rebuild or buy a replacement.

 

[Steve 3650]

The bottom line is, it depend on how you run your operation.
I was fortunate to be able to borrow a 3-point splitter, because that's what I thought I wanted. What I learned was, 1] splitting large rounds in the vertical position was harder on my body than rolling them up on the horizontal beam, and 2] it is a pain using the tractor for other purposes such as lifting and moving wood around or pulling a trailer. It could all be done, I didn't like it. I invested in a Wolf Ridge pull behind with a hydraulic log lift. I heat my house and shop with wood, but I don't want to make a big production of it, as I enjoy my time cutting and splitting wood. The log lift is like wearing chain saw chaps. Protecting my body as I age has has become more important.

 

[Deepdrop]

I have one more thing that is confusing the heck out of me. I'm now convinced that a standalone is the way to go. I see that there are gas powered as well as electric. They are all rated for ability to split logs up to a certain thickness and length, but the reviews on them all talk about splitting logs WAY beyond the advertised limit. For instance, a big box store sells an electric model rated to split logs up to 10 inch diameter. Right off the bat, the first reviewer says what a beast it is and how he routinely splits 23 inch thick logs, and it goes on and on with other reviewers.
Same is true of the gas powered models. Are the manufacturers just extremely conservative in the ratings? Should I buy one that has ratings appropriate for my 18-24" pine logs? Or can I really expect an electric WEN 6.5 ton model to split my 20 inch logs? Until I read the reviews I was thinking in terms of a 25 ton unit.
Again, thanks for the help. I really don't want to screw this up and I am very grateful for you all sharing your experience.

 

[kenmbz]

I have a yardmax 25 ton and split 30" ash rounds in vertical mode. Quick cycle time- ok build .
I use it a lot, but not commercial production by any means

 

[oosik]

It depends upon how you want to be set up and how much you want to spend. I had a 30 ton stand alone splitter - Didier. My trees are ancient Ponderosa pines. 24" to 38" on the butt. Most are 90 to 120 feet tall. I had a couple that were 42" on the butt.

I fell the tree - cut to length - drag the splitter up to the tree. My transport trailer was hooked to the tractor. If I stacked neat & tight into the trailer - 2 1/2 to 3 full cords.

I would harvest 6 cords every spring. My firewood shed held 12 to 14 full cord. I burned pine that had been stored one full year.

I burned wood for the first twelve years we lived here. Then I went to wood pellets for the next ten years or so. Now it baseboard electric heat.

JMHO - a 12" to 16" tree is the ideal size for splitting. The gigantic pines I have are a real PITA. Hard to handle - don't split really easy. They had to be split out in the field. There is no way you can load a trailer with unsplit rounds - 14" long and 36" in diameter.

However - I truly miss the smell of burning pine - the smell of the pine firewood stacked in the house, waiting to be burned. I DO NOT miss the bugs, dirt & bark brought in with the firewood.

 

[Ford850]

I've never had pine that was hard to split, but I don't split a lot of that. I do split a lot of oak, hickory, elm, ash, maple, walnut, etc. I have a 22 ton SpeeCo splitter and wouldn't get anything bigger if doing it again. I've only had one twisted elm that stalled out my 22 ton.
It refused to split any of the logs from that tree as the grain was damp and stringy, and relied on the wedge to shear through the logs. When I got to the logs over 16 or 20" it would run out of steam. We noodled those large logs in half very easily and then it split the halves like butter. That was a lesson learned for future large logs that are somewhat difficult, because even with noodling first, it was fast to get through them. Large logs are rare for me, so I like the swift cycle rate and smaller more efficient engine on the 22.

 

[KennyG]

I have a 3 point splitter and it's ideal for me. However, I think 90% of users are better off with a stand alone. I already have rear remotes, I have a quick hitch, so attaching the splitter is a 5 minute job. I do all my splitting at my wood shed, so I don't need the tractor for anything else while I'm splitting. I have a two way splitter so my limited hydraulic flow isn't really a problem. I recognize that most people are not in the same situation as I am.

 

[Steve 3650]

I have no experience with electric. Splitting only pine should be relatively easy. The height of the wedge could make a difference with large rounds. There are also 4-way or 6-way wedges to make multiple splits with each stroke. The speed of each stroke might be something to compare. Fortunately for you pine is not particularly heavy or hard. I'm quite sure I overload my splitter often, but that's not a recommendation. Mine has a 9hp honda and is advertised as 28HO ton ram and 22 gpm pump.Once again it comes down to personal preferences, priorities, and how much you want to spend. I looked at my purchase as a long term investment. I expect it to work when I need it to, be relatively safe and easy on me body. I bought it in 2015 and so far it has not disappointed. I split alot of challenging wood. Oak,hickory, red elm, hackberry, locust and anything else straight rounds and crotches, I don't discriminate.

 

[3Ts]

Out of curiosity, if the engine fails on a standalone, would I be able to find a way to run it off the tractor hydraulics?

The answer is Yes. Because all a log splitter is, is a double acting cylinder. You'd be able to hook that up to your tractor with a longer hose. However, there are a couple of ways that are possible depending on what you have access to on your tractor. It's possible to run from your tractor to the splitter valve, or bypass the splitter valve and go direct to the cylinder using a valve on your tractor. The problem would come in mixing the different hydraulic fluids. I'd purge the splitter cylinder and refill with what the tractor uses.

BTW - a replacement engine can be had from Harbor Freight for not a whole lot of money.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I absolutely can't stand those pissy azz engine driven splitters. BUT they are highly effective. Buy one on sale, buy one with a quality HONDA, use stabilizer or better yet non-ethanol fuel and be done with it.

3PH splitters are a major pain to move around, store and take on and off. And often SLOW, but you say that doesn't matter to you.