Buying used flail mower (JD or Ford)

[Industrial Toys]

Since I wouldn't be using a mower in the winter, I see no reason for synthetic oil. They have used regular 80/90 in such gearboxes for a hundred or more years without issue.

 

[Hay Dude]

Since I wouldn't be using a mower in the winter, I see no reason for synthetic oil. They have used regular 80/90 in such gearboxes for a hundred or more years without issue.

Yep. I use syn in my Kubota front axles and bevel gear axle ends, etc. and my CX-15 because I run it in the winter cutting brush and conservancy land.

 

[kthompson]

Well the rotor does turn slower than I expected, think was 1850 or 2000 rpm brochure showed a few models and believe the 300 models were 1850. I am amazed there is not grease fittings for the rotor bearings. How are the bearings lubricated? Are they sealed? Does JD have the bearings in gear oil? I am on my third flail mower with two I know built in Italy and believe the third one was also. They all have grease fittings with grease often lubing.

 

[John0829]

Since I wouldn't be using a mower in the winter, I see no reason for synthetic oil. They have used regular 80/90 in such gearboxes for a hundred or more years without issue.

I switched over to using cornhead grease in all my gear boxes years ago and have been much happier, especially in the old brush hogs where leaky seals can be an issue.

 

[leonz]

JD started using sealed bearings after they began building and assembling the small flail mowers in Mexico. The ones that were built in Moline, Illinois never had sealed bearings.

 

[pripyat]

I have found that it isn't the big stuff (saplings, etc) that gives the mower a hard time. It's the near waist-high, dense, coastal bermuda. I can cruise in H-1 for most my cutting but any patch of thick tall grass will drop the rpm on the tractor and actually cause the belt to start slipping if I don't intervene. Since the tractor is gear/shuttle, I just started mowing in sections based on the type of growth. M-4 for bermuda (I had to drop to M-3 once), H-1 for everything else. I wonder if this would even be the case if I had sharp blades.

I was looking around for replacement blades just to see what they cost, they are selling on ebay for $8 a piece. Surely people aren't actually spending $700 to replace the blades on these things?

I was thinking I would use synthetic since from my past experience, it has dropped the operating temp of the equipment I've put it in. I've got a thermal imager so if anyone has a "best gearcase oil" I can post up a thermal image of the gearbox after an hour of the cheap stuff and then again after an hour of cutting with the higher quality oil. May dispel some myths.

Lastly - Any tips on sharpening these blades? Grinder with a flap disc seems like it will get it too hot.

 

[rmissildine]

pripyat,
Years ago I bought a used 5' flail mower from a local dealer. Don't remember the brand, but it to needed the rear roller bearings as well as new blades.
The key thing to keep in mind with no adjustment wheels, the rear roller rides on the ground and you height of cut is controlled by the 3ph and top link adjustment. When properly adjusted you can get a real nice looking cut. I don't know how it will do for rough cutting tall grasses, but shorter grass can look as though it was cut with a lawn mower. I loved mind, but sold it with the old tractor when I moved. By the way it was a '51 8N Ford that I cut with and no problems.

Roger

 

[pripyat]

2 things -

Is there any advantage to replacing the rubber shield at the rear of the unit?

Should I start watching ebay for blades and over time try to get some for less than $8 per blade or is there a better option? This would be for future replacement blades, I just flipped my blades around yesterday evening.

 

[leonz]

2 things -

Is there any advantage to replacing the rubber shield at the rear of the unit?

Should I start watching ebay for blades and over time try to get some for less than $8 per blade or is there a better option? This would be for future replacement blades, I just flipped my blades around yesterday evening.

1. (as far as side slicer knives go you should invest in a wet well grinder from micromark and an angle setter from mastercraft wood working UNLESS the micromark folks
are carrying the angle setter for that wet well grinder now).

2. Call the folks at www.thegreenpartsstore.com in Indiana and ask what the cost per knife is for your flail mower and what the cost of a replacement rubber discharge shield is. The folks at the green parts store are a family owned business that sell JD parts and supplies at a lower cost and they ship everywhere.

3. the rubber discharge shield should be replaced if it is missing or ripped.

 

[Hay Dude]

2 things -

Is there any advantage to replacing the rubber shield at the rear of the unit?

Should I start watching ebay for blades and over time try to get some for less than $8 per blade or is there a better option? This would be for future replacement blades, I just flipped my blades around yesterday evening.

If you are worried about rocks being discharged into people, windows, cars, etc. yes, replace it.

 

[pripyat]

you should invest in a wet well grinder from micromark and an angle setter from mastercraft wood working UNLESS the micromark folks
are carrying the angle setter for that wet well grinder now).

Can you link an angle setter? The wet grinder was easy enough to find but I'm not seeing anything on the angle setter. It would help if I knew what exactly I was looking for. :laughing:

 

[leonz]

Can you link an angle setter? The wet grinder was easy enough to find but I'm not seeing anything on the angle setter. It would help if I knew what exactly I was looking for. :laughing:

Go to amazon and type in tormek and it will take you right to it.

 

[rmissildine]

pripyat,
Not sure why you bought a flail mower for the grass you are cutting, seems to me you would have bought a rotary cutter.
Flail mowers are designed to cut fairly smooth, flat areas. Like road sides and open field areas where the grass want's to be kept low and nice looking.
As blades go, they don't have to be manufacture specific. All you need is the length, width and thickness, although thickness isn't as important.
Do a google search, find the blades that somewhat match your dimensions and give it a go. There are a lot of blades out there for a lot less that $8.00 a piece.

Roger

 

[pripyat]

pripyat,
Not sure why you bought a flail mower for the grass you are cutting, seems to me you would have bought a rotary cutter.

But I did buy a rotary cutter. :laughing:

The plan is to get all of this mess knocked down so I can plant it in longleaf this winter. I joined the NRCS program so instead of letting the land sit idle I'm going to let them pay me to plant trees on it. :thumbsup:

Plan is to use the flail for the several acres around the house that I want to keep cut short and clean. But, I'm using it for the tall stuff right now because it does such a good job of mulching up the clippings. People keep telling me that I'm going to end up with a zero turn for mowing but I'm having a hard time believing them. I have nothing against using roundup for anything I can't get with the flail mower. I hate working on the yards. Love working in the yard. :cool2:

[edit] While I'm posting.. I did start working on the rotary cutter. The gearbox isn't bound but when I pulled the gear oil level plug it was dry. Going to fill it and see where it is going and hopefully just replace the seal. The mower was missing the wheel, it was broken off of the swively part. Welded the wheel off my gearbox-missing cutter onto the rotating portion of the newer cutter. I wouldn't post most of my welds but this one was moderately decent..


Also, flipping the knives around on the flail was a real PIA. Basically, the protruding part of the bolt was beaten up and had to be ground off before I could take the nuts off the bolts. They were pretty bad. Super time consuming..

 

[TheFarmerInAdell]

2 things -

Is there any advantage to replacing the rubber shield at the rear of the unit?

Should I start watching ebay for blades and over time try to get some for less than $8 per blade or is there a better option? This would be for future replacement blades, I just flipped my blades around yesterday evening.

Did you contact Flailmaster? They're still around, just reorganizing. They have an account on here that you can message, you can email them, or you can call them. Someone on the flail mower thread contacted them earlier this week and were able to get blades.

 

[rmissildine]

Good looking weld.
My mower had pins with cotter keys. A lot easier to take apart and a lot cheaper if you have to replace a few.
As far as cutting a few acres around the house, you should get a very nice cut and like you said, roundup makes a good weed eater... My dad used to call it liquid edger!!!
Good luck with the long leaf...
Roger

 

[John0829]

Is there any advantage to replacing the rubber shield at the rear of the unit?

For the rubber deflector on my Mott I bought a horse stall mat at the local farm store for under $20 and was able to cut a strip off that made a perfect deflector. The mat was is a 1/2" thick, it was easy enough to cut with a utility knife then with it held in place with clamps drilled and bolted it. A lot cheaper than purchasing one and other than some grass stuck to it cannot see any wear whatsoever.

 

[pripyat]

For the rubber deflector on my Mott I bought a horse stall mat at the local farm store for under $20 and was able to cut a strip off that made a perfect deflector.

Thanks, I was trying to think of something that would work for this but those rubber mats you walk on (at the industrial supply store) are outrageously expensive.

I haven't called flailmaster yet, It will be a while before I need blades, I was just wondering if I should be picking up the JD HD blades on ebay whenever I saw them for less than $8 a piece (for future use).

I have cut at least 20 acres of weeds with the flail. It has done really well, I wish the 6' rotary was up and running so I could do a side-by-side comparison of the cut. I still have to reinforce the wheel mount on the cutter deck as it has several cracked welds. I was in weeds as tall as the top of the ROPS of the tractor at one point, running in M-4 without issue. I have an umbrella mounted on my ROPS and was actually hitting the tops of the weeds with the umbrella. :laughing:

The thickest stuff on my property, it is some kind of grass that only grows in one area, I had to cut in M-2. Interestingly, the belt starts chirping the same time the tractor starts dropping RPM. I've got a replacement belt and replacement bearings coming this week for spares.

Some of the stuff I cut really should have been done with the rotary, I felt bad hitting some of the saplings and hearing the blades clanking all around. Should have left all saplings for the rotary and grass/weeds for the flail. Just to conserve them knives..

One last thought - I had a conversation with a guy once who was trying to sandblast an old jeep which had been coated in that rubber undercoat paint. He said that he had the hardest time getting the stuff off, that it was a perfect storm for the sandblaster. Would it make sense to rubber coat high wear areas under the cutter to protect the steel? I have a LOT of sand where I'm at and it is going to be years before I get grass to cover it all up.

BTW, this is the stuff that was giving it a fit -

 

[def38]

Thanks, I was trying to think of something that would work for this but those rubber mats you walk on (at the industrial supply store) are outrageously expensive.

I haven't called flailmaster yet, It will be a while before I need blades, I was just wondering if I should be picking up the JD HD blades on ebay whenever I saw them for less than $8 a piece (for future use).

I have cut at least 20 acres of weeds with the flail. It has done really well, I wish the 6' rotary was up and running so I could do a side-by-side comparison of the cut. I still have to reinforce the wheel mount on the cutter deck as it has several cracked welds. I was in weeds as tall as the top of the ROPS of the tractor at one point, running in M-4 without issue. I have an umbrella mounted on my ROPS and was actually hitting the tops of the weeds with the umbrella. :laughing:

The thickest stuff on my property, it is some kind of grass that only grows in one area, I had to cut in M-2. Interestingly, the belt starts chirping the same time the tractor starts dropping RPM. I've got a replacement belt and replacement bearings coming this week for spares.

Some of the stuff I cut really should have been done with the rotary, I felt bad hitting some of the saplings and hearing the blades clanking all around. Should have left all saplings for the rotary and grass/weeds for the flail. Just to conserve them knives..

One last thought - I had a conversation with a guy once who was trying to sandblast an old jeep which had been coated in that rubber undercoat paint. He said that he had the hardest time getting the stuff off, that it was a perfect storm for the sandblaster. Would it make sense to rubber coat high wear areas under the cutter to protect the steel? I have a LOT of sand where I'm at and it is going to be years before I get grass to cover it all up.

BTW, this is the stuff that was giving it a fit -
View attachment 664458

Aw, that stuff is for sisssy flail mowers. My grass and weeds are much thicker and taller and interspersed with Buick hubcaps, logs, DeSoto hood parts and the occasional B&S lawn mower engine. My M-F has about 36 PTO HP running a Chicomm 60 flail with hammers. In the thick stuff, I sometimes need to run in the lowest gear I have in the gearbox. But, the flail makes mulch out of most anything in its path.

 

[leonz]

Thanks, I was trying to think of something that would work for this but those rubber mats you walk on (at the industrial supply store) are outrageously expensive.

I haven't called flailmaster yet, It will be a while before I need blades, I was just wondering if I should be picking up the JD HD blades on ebay whenever I saw them for less than $8 a piece (for future use).

I have cut at least 20 acres of weeds with the flail. It has done really well, I wish the 6' rotary was up and running so I could do a side-by-side comparison of the cut. I still have to reinforce the wheel mount on the cutter deck as it has several cracked welds. I was in weeds as tall as the top of the ROPS of the tractor at one point, running in M-4 without issue. I have an umbrella mounted on my ROPS and was actually hitting the tops of the weeds with the umbrella. :laughing:

The thickest stuff on my property, it is some kind of grass that only grows in one area, I had to cut in M-2. Interestingly, the belt starts chirping the same time the tractor starts dropping RPM. I've got a replacement belt and replacement bearings coming this week for spares.

Some of the stuff I cut really should have been done with the rotary, I felt bad hitting some of the saplings and hearing the blades clanking all around. Should have left all saplings for the rotary and grass/weeds for the flail. Just to conserve them knives..

One last thought - I had a conversation with a guy once who was trying to sandblast an old jeep which had been coated in that rubber undercoat paint. He said that he had the hardest time getting the stuff off, that it was a perfect storm for the sandblaster. Would it make sense to rubber coat high wear areas under the cutter to protect the steel? I have a LOT of sand where I'm at and it is going to be years before I get grass to cover it all up.

BTW, this is the stuff that was giving it a fit -
View attachment 664458

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Hello Pripyat,


Do not use any of the rubber undercoating you mentioned as it will make mowing harder to do as the knives will be cutting through anygrass build up that becomes attached to the flail mowers shroud.

If you are really worried about build up you can flip the mower over; wash it with dawn and straight hot water with hand held sprayer and then clean off all the build up that does not wash off and then you can coat the interior of the shroud with 3 or 4 coats of fluid film letting it dry between coats and you will have little to any build up of material. Stay away from the spray cans of anti stick stuff that they sell in the mower stores as it is extremely poisonous.
Fluid Film is made from the lanolin that comes from sheep's wool and is non toxic when sprayed or painted on.


You could purchase some blue stripe slick sheet material from Horn Plastics and use carriage bolts, washers and nylock nuts to secure it in place under the shroud.


About your mowing you can back over the brush on the first pass as a crawling speed and then drive forward over it to mow it all down in 2 passes.