First tractor - wet ground... ?

/ First tractor - wet ground... ? #22  
/ First tractor - wet ground... ? #23  
Are duals possible or practical on a CUT Kubota? Sounds intriguing...

Duals are good on utility tractors in fields. I see many utility tractors with duals in fields around me in north Florida.
Duals are not good mowing residential lawn nor passing between trees in woods work. Duals substantially increase tractor turning radius. Duals limit garage storage.

LINK: Solutions Dual wheels STARCO

Another option for you are bulbous, low-pressure radial tractor tires. Radials are factory options on some compact tractors. Radials are four-ply construction so not as tough as six-ply industrial tires. Tire liners might toughen bulbous radial tractor tires for your conditions.

VIDEO: Tractor Tires: Radial vs. Bias - YouTube
 
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/ First tractor - wet ground... ? #24  
Is the L2501 too light? I was looking for something that was easily maneuverable since so close to water. ...........................

I can add a couple pieces to consider for your decision process from personal experience. First, maneuverability can be surprising. I tried tight circles with my L3200 and L4240 when I had both. Measuring from the side of the rear tire as tight as they would turn, the larger tractor did a circle 21" smaller:

L3200HST or L4240HSTC - Which turns sharper? - OrangeTractorTalks - Everything Kubota

How soon you can get onto flooded land is something I'd expect to vary greatly. It would depend on how long the land is submerged, how well it drains, etc. The picture below is of the front of our property. It looks like that anywhere between 0 and 6 times a year. The water is usually out of the banks for a matter of hours. If the water recedes and we get no more rain, I can gather the debris left by the water and mow it two or three days later. The small Ford with R1 tires marks it up more than the big tractor with R4's. Seems like the ground contact area of the big tires compensates for the extra tractor weight. For dealing with mud and worrying about getting stuck, the R1's would be my choice. For getting onto soft ground where marking it up is the concern, the R4's work well for me.
 

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/ First tractor - wet ground... ? #25  
I just went from a 29 hp, 60 axel tractor that amply runs all of my stuff. I sold it and got a tractor with a 80 spread because I was tired of almost tipping on my sloping forest ground.
 
/ First tractor - wet ground... ? #26  
I must be missing something here. You are going to all this work on "the seven" and the river floods over it every year. Are you expecting to get it is a shape that the river will cause less damage when it floods.
 
/ First tractor - wet ground... ?
  • Thread Starter
#27  
I must be missing something here. You are going to all this work on "the seven" and the river floods over it every year. Are you expecting to get it is a shape that the river will cause less damage when it floods.

That's my hop. Usually every spring it's under water (as it is now) and then dries out the rest of the year with deer, turkeys, geese, ducks, badgers, etc. I would like to eventually plant some grass to assist with erosion. This may be a lost cause but I'm hopeful...
 
/ First tractor - wet ground... ? #28  
My question would be, it the land rising due to silt being left, or is it dropping due to soil washing away. Agree with all of the erosion control. I am on the top of a hill and still see a lot of erosion due to rain. I try to divert all of the water to areas that do not wash. Slowing the water down.
 
/ First tractor - wet ground... ? #29  
Folks from other parts of the country might not quite understand our Michigan topography. OP's area is surely kinda flat, overall. Maybe some mounds of sandy hills here and there in the region. Our rivers tend to meander back and forth in slightly lower plains/channels, with bends back and forth that can create fingers of land in between. Since the river normally stays down in its channel, the fingers will be dry-ish for 80-90% of the year, typically only flooding during spring snow melt (ground still frozen, so a late winter rain can raise the rivers FAST) or extended wet periods like we are having now. If this was my land, I would also want to improve these acres and make them usable since they would be dry enough for activities and driving on for most of the year. I would want to grab logs for firewood, make trails for hiking and viewing the river, etc. I don't know about clearing ALL of it out, but that's just me. A good hearty (native) grass could get established on the lowlands and withstand the occasional prolonged flooding events. Basic cleanup after big flooding events would be a normal routine.

My take: don't clear all of it - 7 acres is pretty huge after all. Start with trails and a few open areas. Establish grass in the late spring when the long term forecast looks damp, but not flooded (I know, hard to gauge).

EDIT: I forgot this was about what tractor to buy, haha. Really, Brand shouldn't matter. I would aim for 30-40 BHP and 2800-3500 lbs bare tractor weight. FOrget the gear trans, HST barely robs any power and its SOOOoo much more convenient. Turf tires. Ask your dealers about oversize turf tires to prevent bogging as bad in the mud. Keep 4WD on whenever conditions are wet and also learn to ride the diff lock if it's real sketchy. And simply stay out of there when its under water! :laughing:
 
/ First tractor - wet ground... ? #31  
Just tons of rain. Snow was melted a couple months ago (and grand rapids / muskegon area got way less snow than usual this winter). 6-8" in the last week for many areas. Lots of areas of southern Michigan are under water today.
 
/ First tractor - wet ground... ?
  • Thread Starter
#32  
DEEZLER - THANK YOU for your excellent description of my situation. Much better than I was able to. Looks like I'm going to have to expand my search from a L2501. Must fit in garage...
 
/ First tractor - wet ground... ? #33  
Ruger I have a similar situation. On the Great Miami River in the western part of Ohio. It seems the flooding gets worse each year. Now with all the dead ash trees many are fallen and get caught against other standing trees and cause log jams or push them over. Dries out slower now. Often August and dry spells before I can get in to try to move some of the debris out of my paths.
I think it will be a very difficult situation for you also. Never really found a good solution with chain saws or front end loaders. Really always too wet to even ask a dozer to come in, afraid they would be stuck too. I think I have to live with what I have. Hoping you can do better. I will follow your thread.
Just to give you some idea of the tractors I have used down there, Yanmar 336 (33HP), a NH 40 HP, and a Mahindra 4510 (45 HP). All have 4 wheel drive and loaders. Each one has gotten stuck (even in the driest months) one time or another and I needed the other tractors to pull then free. Sometimes mud or soft ground not seen in the high vegetation, one time high centered on a hidden fallen log. Good luck with your project, wish I could give you some good advice but could use some myself.
 
/ First tractor - wet ground... ? #34  
Looks like I'm going to have to expand my search from a L2501. Must fit in garage...

An MX series open-station tractor will pass under an 84" garage door header with the ROPS folded.
 
/ First tractor - wet ground... ?
  • Thread Starter
#35  
SW Michigan has had the wettest Springs on record five years in a row. Hopefully this just a blip and not an every year occurrence....

I have lived in this state most of my life and never really realized until recently how damp it is. Especially west Michigan. In attempt to stay positive, we don't have to worry about a LACK of water like many states..
 
/ First tractor - wet ground... ? #37  
It's a shame that YANMAR has stopped importing the T80 tracked tractor that might have been just the machine for your area;
Yanmar T8 Track Tractors Price, Specs & Features
You could possibly find a used one, do some creative shopping and import;
Yanmar-T80-Tractor.jpg
 
/ First tractor - wet ground... ? #38  
You're only dealing with 7-10 acres of land I think an L2501 will do everything you need. It does everything I need from towing logs, grapple, shifting mounds of dirt or stone, mowing pastures each Fall, scraping the gravel driveway and unfortunately the dirt/gravel road I live on that the state doesn't have time to. I can get into some fairly steep places here so I added 2" Bromar wheel spacers which puts the tires out a bit over 60" IIRC so it's quite stable. Fits under a standard garage door too.
 
/ First tractor - wet ground... ?
  • Thread Starter
#39  
You're only dealing with 7-10 acres of land I think an L2501 will do everything you need. It does everything I need from towing logs, grapple, shifting mounds of dirt or stone, mowing pastures each Fall, scraping the gravel driveway and unfortunately the dirt/gravel road I live on that the state doesn't have time to. I can get into some fairly steep places here so I added 2" Bromar wheel spacers which puts the tires out a bit over 60" IIRC so it's quite stable. Fits under a standard garage door too.

Do you have HST or gear?
 
/ First tractor - wet ground... ? #40  
HST is ordered on 90% of tractors <3,000 pounds bare tractor weight.

Few today can operate a traditional clutch and gear transmission. Traditional clutch and gear clutch rebuilds are $1,200 at dealer.

Resale on a traditional clutch and gear tractor is terrible.

HST's characteristic of infinite speed variation is useful in many situations, starting with mounting implements on TPH.

HST's characteristic of max torque at beginning of pulls pairs well with light tractor / low horsepower tractor ground engagement applications.

Geared tractors are slightly more efficient than pump transmission tractors transmitting engine output to wheels.

It is almost unheard of for a tractor <3,000 pounds to have an FEL and a clutch and gear transmission.
 
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