Increase Kubota FEL tilt

[Viny]

Hello,

I have a mid-90s Kubota M4700 e/w a LA1001 front end loader. A few years ago, I modified it to a skid steer quick disconnect setup. This has been a game changer. Not only can I use my bucket, I also use: a set of forks with a grapple, a crane, a blade, a work platform and a Trailblazer TB-1 front end mower powered by the remotes. This is where the problem lies.

When re-configuring the mower to different positions, one needs to raise the FEL and tilt it forward until the face is parallel with the ground. my setup won't reach parallel and leaves the mower in too much of a bind to reconfigure by hand. I can reconfig it with an overhead gantry crane, but that is kind of a pain. I guess I could replace the cylinders with longer ones, but that seems like overkill. Does anyone have any experience with crafting some fittings, links, etc that could be added between the cylinder and the quick disconnect plate for additional reach? I have some ideas, but before I head to the shop, I figured I'd see if anyone has dealt with this type of problem before?

 

[BrokenTrack]

You can have the hydraulic cylinder connect to a gear, then have a rack that meshes with the gear. In that configuration, you get twice the stroke out of the hydraulic cylinder with the same amount of force as the hydraulic cylinder.

 

[mikester]

Post some photos. I wouldnt modify the tractor, just make an adapter that gives you the geometry you need.

 

[Viny]

Post some photos. I wouldnt modify the tractor, just make an adapter that gives you the geometry you need.

Now, this is why I like forums. I hadn't even thought about an adapter. As you can see from the picture, I need about another 30 degrees of tilt. I wonder if anyone sells something like this commercially? I'm going to check with the bunch I bought the original quick disconnect from and see if they have anything for sell.

 

[Viny]

I've been doing a bit of surfing to see if I could find anything. The only kind of adapter that is even close to what I might need is this:

Bradco Skid Steer Down Shifter Adapter Plate | Skid Steer Solutions

While this is an adapter to drop the height of a bucket, I could imagine a similar setup that would attach to the mower, semi-permanent, and then just use the regular quick attach to the tractor. Hmmm...

 

[davedj1]

Could you tell us why it needs to go that far forward? I am not grasping it at the moment.

 

[Viny]

Could you tell us why it needs to go that far forward? I am not grasping it at the moment.

Sure. The implement you see in the picture is a Trailblazer TB-1 mower. Here's a link: TB-ONE Cutter

This mower can cut in many different positions. To change the configuration, you need to roll your dump forward until the mower is hanging straight down to take any binding off the unit so it will swing easily. There are videos on the site linked above that show the reconfiguration. Anyway, since my FEL won't dump to horizontal, I can't take the bind out, so I have to use a gantry crane to lift the unit to put it in different configs. This does take some effort and time. I'm trying to eliminate this.

Does this make sense?

 

[4570Man]

You can have the hydraulic cylinder connect to a gear, then have a rack that meshes with the gear. In that configuration, you get twice the stroke out of the hydraulic cylinder with the same amount of force as the hydraulic cylinder.

You can’t do that. Twice the range is half the force.

 

[mikester]

Now, this is why I like forums. I hadn't even thought about an adapter. As you can see from the picture, I need about another 30 degrees of tilt. I wonder if anyone sells something like this commercially? I'm going to check with the bunch I bought the original quick disconnect from and see if they have anything for sell.

View attachment 654227

Its hard to tell with only one view, but it looks like you could easily modify the cutter attachment. Measure the angle difference, cut, re-weld the bracket, done. If you spend a little time you can make a bolted joint that can be set at two different angles...might be helpful if you plan to use the attachment on other tractors or if you need the attachment to angle up or curl more. If not, weld it up.

 

[Viny]

Its hard to tell with only one view, but it looks like you could easily modify the cutter attachment. Measure the angle difference, cut, re-weld the bracket, done. If you spend a little time you can make a bolted joint that can be set at two different angles...might be helpful if you plan to use the attachment on other tractors or if you need the attachment to angle up or curl more. If not, weld it up.

This is kind of what I have in mind at this moment. I like the idea of a 2 angle, bolted joint. I'm imagining starting with a blank skid steer attachment plate and building the necessary up on that. I could then use it on other implements as well if needed. I'm still stewing.

 

[ptsg]

Mikester's solution is probably the best and the easiest to do.

If you really want to, you could also modify the loader. The way they mounted the curl cylinders, makes it actually easier to modify the position. It could probably help with other attachments as well but it's a bit more complex to do.

This is what I did on my homemade loader and it's used in most loaders. This linkage allows for more curl back and dump angles without compromising the force of the cylinders. To get this the way I wanted, I played with CAD programs a lot and made lots of changes till I was happy. This can also be done with a simple cardboard or MDF or something like that.

Playing with this linkage exactly right, you can retain the same cylinders without modifications.

Well, TBN is a bit messed up at the moment and it's hard to add pictures. Hopefully it works.

 

[Michael In Tennessee]

Maybe make a Vee from male/female quick hitch plates at the right angle. Might even make it hinged. A rigid Vee would limit articulation in the opposite direction.

Or, make triangular extensions for your existing quick hitch mount to give you a second cylinder rod end position.

 

[wagne223]

Back the rear tires on a pile of dirt.

Not as fun as making modifications but it would allow you to make your adjustments without the crane.

 

[Viny]

Mikester's solution is probably the best and the easiest to do.

If you really want to, you could also modify the loader. The way they mounted the curl cylinders, makes it actually easier to modify the position. It could probably help with other attachments as well but it's a bit more complex to do.

This is what I did on my homemade loader and it's used in most loaders. This linkage allows for more curl back and dump angles without compromising the force of the cylinders. To get this the way I wanted, I played with CAD programs a lot and made lots of changes till I was happy. This can also be done with a simple cardboard or MDF or something like that.

Playing with this linkage exactly right, you can retain the same cylinders without modifications.

Well, TBN is a bit messed up at the moment and it's hard to add pictures. Hopefully it works.

Originally, I was thinking in this direction, the addition of the scissors would probably do the trick. I was wondering how hard it might be to get the measurements right. That's why I like the idea of the middle adapter. However, if this could be done, it would be done and work for all implements. This'll take some more stewing. I'm glad I wasn't ready to fire up the welder this afternoon...LOL.

 

[Viny]

Back the rear tires on a pile of dirt.

Not as fun as making modifications but it would allow you to make your adjustments without the crane.

I actually did attempt to do it this way. I backed up onto the levee of my pond and the angle was quite severe. I still couldn't get the thing close enough to horizontal to remove the bind.

 

[davedj1]

Sure. The implement you see in the picture is a Trailblazer TB-1 mower. Here's a link: TB-ONE Cutter

This mower can cut in many different positions. To change the configuration, you need to roll your dump forward until the mower is hanging straight down to take any binding off the unit so it will swing easily. There are videos on the site linked above that show the reconfiguration. Anyway, since my FEL won't dump to horizontal, I can't take the bind out, so I have to use a gantry crane to lift the unit to put it in different configs. This does take some effort and time. I'm trying to eliminate this.

Does this make sense?

Hmmm, I know I live a sheltered life but I have never seen that before. I get it now.

 

[Leejohn]

Check and see how much room is between the cyls. and the boom when the cyls are all the way in. If you have some room just drop the top pin holes down. BUT make sure the cyls. don't hit the boom, if they do you well bend the rod.

 

[BrokenTrack]

You can稚 do that. Twice the range is half the force.

Of course you can. It is not a telescoping cylinder, the cylinder is pushing a gear that meshes with the rack. As the wheel is pushed forward and turns, the rack gets sent forward. Between the length of the hydraulic cylinder AND the length of the rack, you get twice the distance traveled, at the same force.

It is mechanical over hydraulic...

 

[Viny]

Of course you can. It is not a telescoping cylinder, the cylinder is pushing a gear that meshes with the rack. As the wheel is pushed forward and turns, the rack gets sent forward. Between the length of the hydraulic cylinder AND the length of the rack, you get twice the distance traveled, at the same force.

It is mechanical over hydraulic...

I couldn't really picture this in my mind the first time you suggested it. Is there an example you could refer to to illustrate this idea? Perhaps a Youtube video or pictures of something similar? Thanks in advance!

 

[Gordon Gould]

Could you hang a counter weight on the mower while you change the config. Make the counter weight so that the mower hangs at what ever angle works. Just an off the wall idea :confused3:

gg