Repainting Trailer and Replacing Trailer Deck

   / Repainting Trailer and Replacing Trailer Deck #21  
Landscaping timbers are "dipped" , not pressure treated and that's why they rot fairly fast.

Check the tag on PT lumber, you want .60 treat, .40 won't last near as long, as it's not rated for ground contact.

You can spl. order .80 or 1.0 but have a FAT wallet to pay for them! (marine rating)

SR


.40 IS rated for ground contact,...... however .60 would definitely be best!
See my post #17 for all the ratings.
 
   / Repainting Trailer and Replacing Trailer Deck #22  
I'll add another suggestion.

Add some oil inside any tubing to prevent rot (rust) out and it will deter internal rust.
(That is standard procedure on all aircraft tubing structures.)
If a tube has open ends pour oil in and then plug the end with a wooden plug. (The plug will become oil impregnated and won't rot)

I have seen many trailers with totally rotted out tube structures, even the draw poles.
 
   / Repainting Trailer and Replacing Trailer Deck #23  
.40 IS rated for ground contact,...... however .60 would definitely be best!
See my post #17 for all the ratings.
Not where I live, it says right on the tag of .40, NOT for ground contact. .60 is rated for ground contact...

I've seen #17, and that's why I posted what I've read right on the lumber.

SR
 
   / Repainting Trailer and Replacing Trailer Deck #24  
You don't need marine grade pressure treatment. And you're not likely to get it unless you are near the coast. You do need more preservative than typically found at a big box store - get the ground contact rated treatment level. As for fastners, just be sure they are ACQ rated and you'll be fine, these are typically hot dipped galvanized (not regular galvanizing), stainless steel, and many ceramic or proprietary coatings. The new chemicals in pressure treated wood are quite corrosive so do use a separator between the wood and frame. I would use something like the new window flashings that are self adhesive, have a type of rubberized material. They are self healing and provide better protection than tar paper.


Grace Ice and Water Shield

Cut to fit, peel and stick.


.
 
   / Repainting Trailer and Replacing Trailer Deck #25  
There are several types of pressure treatment available and the proper one to select depends on the environment and what you have access to. For the most part ACQ seems to be what the big box stores carry, but some of the other lumber yards will carry other preservative treatments.

As for treatment and environment, Borate treated ones are effective against termites and non-toxic to humans, however the borate will wash off with water so can only be used in protected areas.

There are 2 ground contact ratings for ACQ, UC4A (0.40 retention) and UC4B (0.60 retention) both are rated for ground contact. There is also MCA with 0.15 and 0.31 respectively. Here's the chart on pressure treatment and the retention rates:

Pressure treatment of wood.jpg
 
   / Repainting Trailer and Replacing Trailer Deck #26  
Good grief, just put pressure treat framing lumber from a professional lumber yard on with a little peel & stick ice/water shield and PT safe tech screws and be done with it.
You guys argue over technicalities like a bunch of wet hens sometimes. :laughing:
 
   / Repainting Trailer and Replacing Trailer Deck #27  
Not where I live, it says right on the tag of .40, NOT for ground contact. .60 is rated for ground contact...

I've seen #17, and that's why I posted what I've read right on the lumber.

SR

For YOUR lumber, I am sure you are correct.
But.......There ARE different ratings for DIFFERENT chemicals, used by different producers, in the treatment process.
 
   / Repainting Trailer and Replacing Trailer Deck #28  
   / Repainting Trailer and Replacing Trailer Deck #29  
Well if the deck is off let's add some more cross members and a bigger axle...........:laughing:
 
   / Repainting Trailer and Replacing Trailer Deck #31  
Good grief, just put pressure treat framing lumber from a professional lumber yard on with a little peel & stick ice/water shield and PT safe tech screws and be done with it.
You guys argue over technicalities like a bunch of wet hens sometimes. :laughing:

I agree. :thumbsup: Get whatever pressure treated lumber you care to and attach it with appropriate fasteners.
 
   / Repainting Trailer and Replacing Trailer Deck #32  
I agree. :thumbsup: Get whatever pressure treated lumber you care to and attach it with appropriate fasteners.

For a a very few bucks more, it makes good sense to source better quality material, and just do the job ONCE!
 
   / Repainting Trailer and Replacing Trailer Deck #33  
Good grief, just put pressure treat framing lumber from a professional lumber yard on with a little peel & stick ice/water shield and PT safe tech screws and be done with it.
You guys argue over technicalities like a bunch of wet hens sometimes. :laughing:
AMEN to that! It happens all the time on this site!

SR
 
   / Repainting Trailer and Replacing Trailer Deck #34  
For a a very few bucks more, it makes good sense to source better quality material, and just do the job ONCE!

For this application, I'm not sure X is better than Z or ground treated for that matter. On trailers, it becomes air dried in a certain amount of time anyway and in the case of high water content GT lumber, its not a plus. Nonetheless, anything will work. How treatment is lost is the cycling of wet and dry and each time it does that, some of the chemical is expelled.
 
   / Repainting Trailer and Replacing Trailer Deck
  • Thread Starter
#35  
Well if the deck is off let's add some more cross members and a bigger axle...........:laughing:

I am tempted to do just that, and upgrade to a 5200 lb axle with brakes. Would make the trailer an excellent firewood trailer. I am also thinking about fixing it up and selling it and buying a single axle 5200 lb high side dump trailer in its place.
 
   / Repainting Trailer and Replacing Trailer Deck
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Good grief, just put pressure treat framing lumber from a professional lumber yard on with a little peel & stick ice/water shield and PT safe tech screws and be done with it.

Am I wrapping each board with ice / water shield? Or just covering the top of each board with it? I've never seen a trailer with it on it.
 
   / Repainting Trailer and Replacing Trailer Deck #37  
I am tempted to do just that, and upgrade to a 5200 lb axle with brakes. Would make the trailer an excellent firewood trailer. I am also thinking about fixing it up and selling it and buying a single axle 5200 lb high side dump trailer in its place.

I looked at this trailer near me...Details - Load Trail LLC
 
   / Repainting Trailer and Replacing Trailer Deck #38  
On top of the cross members, I never saw it before but I don't know.....
 
   / Repainting Trailer and Replacing Trailer Deck #39  
Am I wrapping each board with ice / water shield? Or just covering the top of each board with it? I've never seen a trailer with it on it.

It's not necessary to use Icy and manufactures usually don't. I thought about it last time I replaced decking but it would require another trip to the supply house and I just put the boards on without it.

I think it's a good idea to use it though and several I know have.

It comes in a roll and is a peel and stick membrane that roofers use on roofs to help prevent Ice Dam damage.

So, if you wanted to use it on your trailer just cut a strip with a sharp knife about as wide as the metal your deck board will be resting on and stick it on there. Go down both sides, front and rear and cross members then lay down the boards and attach them.

Here is a link if you want more info:

GRACE ICE & WATER SHIELD(R) (US Version) | Resource | GCP Applied Technologies

You can buy Grace Ice and Water Shield at Lowes, HD, and order from Walmart. Almost any building supply house.




TBS
 
   / Repainting Trailer and Replacing Trailer Deck #40  
Am I wrapping each board with ice / water shield? Or just covering the top of each board with it? I've never seen a trailer with it on it.

You are using little strips of it placed on top of steel trailer crossmembers to keep the treated lumber additives from eating the steel
You dont have to do it. Its just a little extra prevention.
 

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