Cylinder repair suggestions?

[electrycmonk]

So I recently acquired this backhoe in a less then cared for condition. I found a few issues and have fixed them for current stable use. (other pictures of it posted in the BH use thread and another thread as well, IIRC)

This question is should I try door #1 or door #2? Or do you have a Door#3 suggestion?

Previous owners decided to just weld the cracked end of the cylinder up and not replace the zerk fitting. I have no clue the condition of the pin or the inside of the surfaces but, it currently functions smoothly with no issue and no return of the crack so far.

I have the PDF downloaded of the manual and a parts list is in it, just don't know (off hand) if its super detailed yet.

Door #1: should I clean the area. Remove pin and swing cylinder out to drill a small hole to be tapped for a replacement zerk fitting? Obviously I want to also make sure I file/sand down the drill sides for safety before reassembly.

Door#2: should I just prepare to replace the piston OR whole cylinder(depending on what is replaceable and available from Manufacturer)?

Door#3: __?__

 

[5030]

Door 3... Take it off and, clean it up and drill and tap it for a new zerk. Fugly weld.

 

[mmancuso13]

Agreed. You need some grease in there

 

[RNeumann]

I agree with above. I wouldn’t try to drill over the weld. Maybe you can get an angled zerk in a new spot. Maybe some cleanup while it’s apart too.

 

[LouNY]

Drill, tap and grease.
Possible on the inside or use a 90 fitting on the end.
I wouldn't bother trying to grind the welds down and make it pretty,
not breaking again is more important.

 

[flyerdan]

Is the back side original? I would turn the shaft 180 degrees and drill a zerk hole on that side and put the weld to the back.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Is the back side original? I would turn the shaft 180 degrees and drill a zerk hole on that side and put the weld to the back.

That might be possible on the 180 turn, but I would still grind off all that old crappy weld to get rid of the porosity and other defects. Groove out the cracks to at least half to 2/3 of the depth of the parent metal, heat it up a bit to burn out the grease (make sure the cylinder rod is extended completely so as to keep any heat from the oil seals,reweld it. After welding, grind off the weld where the zerk is and tap it to install a new zerk. Do it right and it will never be a problem again.

 

[mike48130]

Did you look around for a used one? Do you know if there are bushing in there? You might be replacing the bushings and pins depending on how sloppy it is. Otherwise like said above, pull it off, spin the rod and drill and tap. Cleaning up the weld is up to you and if you are a better welder than the previous guy. If it's holding, sometimes just left better off alone.

 

[hosspuller]

Since there "was" a zerk, the pin is stationary and the rod end pivots. The pin is likely already scored. Use it until it leaks or breaks. Then take it to a hydraulic shop for an inspection, a new proper rod end, seals and replace the pin.

 

[electrycmonk]

This group think is really wonderful.

Regarding the idea of a 180* rotation of the end of the piston; I really like it. IF y'all look at the 2 pics of the zerk and no-zerk, you will see a nut (directly above the zerk/"fugly weld") on a stud that holds the vertical pin in place for the piston to swivel on. This weekend, when it drys out I want to; at the very least loosen that nut, pull the pin out and inspect/test/ triage the area.

If I can get the pin out, I will take pics and seriously clean the surfaces. I will check for cracks, scoring, damage to the inside surface of the welded area of the piston too.
I will also *TEST* to see if a 180* flip is possible too! If not then I will try to take a picture or two to show mock-up locations of possible new zerk or angled zerk site(s)? Sound reasonable?

And as a band-aid to the situation, I will also give all metal surfaces a fresh slather of the either the Moly-B &/OR marine grease i have on hand when i stick it back together while figuring out the best and safest course of action with y'all input.

A side note. I would like to gently grind down some of that slag-looking crud too. Welding skills are really rusty. I've only done a couple little repair jobs with a wire feeder over the last few months... prior to that it was almost a decade ago when I last "scratched an arc."

And obviously I will update more after this weekends inspection/triage effort. Thanks y'all.

my scale of thinking worse case senario on down...
$$$$$ = replace entire cylinder
$$$$ = replace pistion and a "rebuild seal kit"
$$$ = "rebuilt seal kit" & 180* flip with drill/tap/ new zerk
$$ = "Bushing/pin" replacement only(?) & 180* flip with drill/tap/ new zerk
$ = 180*(or not) & drill/tap/ new zerk

 

[RickB]

Is the back side original? I would turn the shaft 180 degrees and drill a zerk hole on that side and put the weld to the back.

This ^^^. There are no awards given for pretty welds. The reward for a successful weld is a useful part.

 

[flyerdan]

I was primarily thinking that it would be easier to drill and tap there, less chance of hitting a hardened weld pocket and breaking a bit or tap, which would be a big problem in its own right.

 

[electrycmonk]

This ^^^. There are no awards given for pretty welds. The reward for a successful weld is a useful part.

I totally agree with this sentiment RickB, on the whole. I do have a detail part of my brain that does like to have things looking tidy and clean lines etal too. Case in point. Earlier this week I finished grinding off the "Tack welds" on the Tommygate I have for replacing the pins (10 of them). I used the Lil MIG and it was not pretty. I will be gently grinding several spots down to remove the splatter balls and yeuckiness that the wire-wheel didn't solve. Yeah I'm a really rusty inexperienced welder.....

I was primarily thinking that it would be easier to drill and tap there, less chance of hitting a hardened weld pocket and breaking a bit or tap, which would be a big problem in its own right.

I will quickly admit that i a$$umed that the idea of flipping it was for a much more flat/uniform surface for the drill/tap & installing a replacement zerk..... IF the inspection shows it can happen. (fingers crossed)

 

[RickB]

I was primarily thinking that it would be easier to drill and tap there, less chance of hitting a hardened weld pocket and breaking a bit or tap, which would be a big problem in its own right.

Agreed.

 

[wdchyd]

I would cut off the old rod end and make a new one out of scrap steel, bore it .010”-.012” over the pin size, weld it and go digging.

 

[wdchyd]

More than likely this is what happened.....and they smashed it back together and welded it.

 

[coxhaus]

So I guess you bought the Bolens G272 tractor with the Kelly backhoe in Waco. I was talking to him when it first came out. He had a mower deck which I think he sold off first. He lowered the price for me a lot but it seemed like a real project to fix. None of the glow plug system works on the tractor. I was having a hard on where to find parts. I think it is a nice sized system.

 

[electrycmonk]

So I guess you bought the Bolens G272 tractor with the Kelly backhoe in Waco. I was talking to him when it first came out. He had a mower deck which I think he sold off first. He lowered the price for me a lot but it seemed like a real project to fix. None of the glow plug system works on the tractor. I was having a hard on where to find parts. I think it is a nice sized system.

Actually, no I didn't. That AD in Waco was not visible when I found this Kelley BH in Tyler area, from a used equipment sales/auction place. Saw it via a Google search that it was cross posted in two different auction sites: their own and another. I got it back at the end of January. I even made a post asking about inline filter suggestions for it then too. In the last 2 weeks I saw 2 Kelley's on Craigslist for sale by them selves & 1 on a Cub cadet in Upstate NY.

 

[electrycmonk]

View attachment 643938


More than likely this is what happened.....and they smashed it back together and welded it.

I see a parallel to the situation but, alas I'm not aware of how bad this one cracked apart. I can say that from my current awareness that it doesn't appear to be out of round on the pin. I have pressure washed it a couple times and then the time I spent redoing the PTO hoses, putting an inline filter on it and some QD's on the Pump to make the removal of the PTO MUCH easier for me.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/421557-pto-pump-filter-recommendations-pseudo.html

I posted pics of it on a different BH thread here on post #66 I think? In early February....
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...-how-often-do-you-actually-7.html#post5646999

 

[electrycmonk]

Update from their website: Kelley Manufacturing : Tractor Backhoes & Parts Manufacturer Ohio

And just a few moments ago, a call to CSR... Worst case pricing is -> The piston/Rod itself is ~$80+ & the seal kit is ~$36 so if I have to order replacement it'll be about $150+ with shipping included via UPS.
1) Rod Assembly Part Number: SCY10006
2) 2” x 1 3/8” Rod Polypack Seal Kit Part Number: 99-001-093


On the best case pricing -> The piston is supposed to be spin-able to have access to other side for drill/tap for a zerk.
So All I'd be looking at is a Zerk fitting?
As I have drill bits and Tap kit that "should be small enough."