Kubota L3800

[eyi]

Hi SOL Members,

Can you please share your thoughts ?

I知 mostly satisfied with my tractor but went thru some issues that make me thinking about upgrading, but being like a beginner, expert or more knowledgable views would be appreciated.

First I have no complaint with the pto power. It strong enough for my needs. Works great with my Farmi 351 and Bushog.

I like the limited size and weight too. Useful in the forest trails and on soft soils.

Issues:

Bent the weak turnbuckles that limit the 3 points side movements doing bushog work.

Bent the 3 point right lift arm working with the Farmi 351. I know this time I push my luck a little bit but ...

Just bought a used small Anderson log trailer with grapple. I trust seller when he says how big logs this could handle. It seems though it is more limited with my tractor. I notice the hydraulic seems limited on the L3800. Is it at stake ?

Well that痴 it, many pros but some annoying cons.

What do you think of the 3 points and hydraulic strenghtes ?

Thanks everyone for taking the time to read and possibly answer.

 

[RjCorazza]

Don't know how heavy these implements are, but if you're bending the lift arms and turn buckles, it sounds like your tractor is undersized for the implements being used.
Post the implement specs for an opinion.

 

[eyi]

Bushhog is a SQ 160 , 600 pounds and the Farmi 351 is less than 400 pounds.

Both are within the Bota specs.

 

[Roadworthy]

If you bent the stabilizing turnbuckles you may not have had them adjusted correctly, as in too loose. This could be why the side on your three point bent as well. You can replace the turnbuckles with telescoping stabilizers. They are much stiffer and easier to adjust.

 

[jeff9366]

Bent the weak turnbuckles that limit the 3 points side movements doing bushog work.

Bent the 3 point right lift arm working with the Farmi 351. I know this time I push my luck a little bit but ...

I like the limited size and weight too. Useful in the forest trails and on soft soils.

Turnbuckle stabilizers can be replaced with Kubota OEM rigid, telescoping, pin-adjustable stabilizers.

VIDEO: Kubota Standard L Series L843 Telescopic Stabilizer kit (overview and install) - YouTube


Generally speaking, heavier tractors have larger wheels and tires, so ground loading increases steadily, not quickly, as tractor weight increases.

It takes a 50% increase in bare tractor weight before you notice a significant improvement in tractor capability.

I suggest you shop the Kubota MX series, around 3,800 pounds bare tractor weight, with a much heavier dual Category 1/2 Three Point Hitch. Plenty of MXs for sale used, as well as new.

Kubota Web Site: https://www.kubotausa.com/products/tractors/economy-utility/mx

VIDEO: Kubota MX series walk around and features by Messicks. | MX48 MX52 MX58 - YouTube

Just bought a used small Anderson log trailer with grapple. I trust seller when he says how big logs this could handle. It seems though it is more limited with my tractor.

Load capacity of an Anderson M90 logging trailer is 9,900 pounds. Empty trailer and log loader alone weigh 1,400 pounds.

Pulling a laden log trailer with a 2,600 pound bare weight tractor over soft ground is an invitation to disaster.


Kubota L3800 - dimensions
2011 - 2014 Standard L Series
Compact Utility tractor
Previous model: Kubota L3400
Series next: Kubota L4600
Series back: Kubota L3200

Kubota L3800 Tires:
Standard tires (ag): Front: 5.00-15. Rear: 11.2-24 (2WD)
Front: 7.2-16. Rear: 11.2-24 (4WD)
Lawn/turf front: 23x8.50-12 (2WD)
25x8.50-14 (4WD)
Lawn/turf rear: 13.6-16
Industrial front: 27x8.50-15 (4WD)
Industrial rear: 15-19.5

Dimensions:
Weight: 2,480 lbs (2WD gear)
2,657 lbs (4WD gear)
2,668 lbs (4WD hydro)
Wheelbase: 63.3 inches [160 cm]
Length: 110.6 inches [280 cm] (2WD)
106.3 inches [270 cm] (4WD)
Width: 55.1 inches [139 cm]
Height (ROPS): 91.7 inches [232 cm]
Ground clearance: 13.6 inches [34 cm] (2WD)
13.4 inches [34 cm] (4WD)
Front tread: 41.3 inches [104 cm] (2WD)43.1 inches [109 cm] (4WD)
Rear tread: 43.8 to 50.8 inches
[111 to 129 cm]

Hydraulics:
Type: open center
Capacity: 7.1 gal [26.9 L] (gear)
6.2 gal [23.5 L] (hydro)
Pump flow: 6.3 gpm [23.8 lpm]
Total flow: 10.1 gpm [38.2 lpm]
Steering flow: 3.8 gpm [14.4 lpm]

 

[eyi]

Thanks for your answer Jeff,

I know how serious you are in your posts and that you are a Grand L owner, may I ask why you are directing me to the MX serie ?

Thanks

 

[jeff9366]

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers.

The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to first identify potential tractor applications, then, through consulataton, establish bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your applications. Tractor dealers, experienced tractor owners and TractorByNet.com are sources for weight recommendations.

Sufficient tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

It takes a 50% increase in bare tractor weight before you notice a significant improvement in tractor capability.



I suggest you shop the Kubota MX series, around 3,800 pounds bare tractor weight, with a much heavier dual Category 1/2 Three Point Hitch. (Actually at Category 2 Three Point Hitch, for which Kubota supplies pin sleeve adaptors for Category 1 implements in the toolbox.)
Plenty of MXs for sale used, as well as new. MX has bigger wheels and tires and wider wheel stance than similar weight L3560.

To safely pull a laden log trailer weighing nearly 10,000 pounds I recommend a tractor with at least 5,000 pounds bare tractor weight and a Category 2 Three Point Hitch, however a 5,000 pound bare weight tractor may be too wide for your grooming applications.

I am brand neutral. Only recommend Kubota because you have a Kubota.

 

[s219]

The stabilizers (whether turnbuckle or telescopic) should be checking the sway by one of them (on the side opposite of the sway direction) going into tension. They cannot bend while in tension. If you bent one of them, it means it was in compression, and that implies you did not have them adjusted properly.

When you put on an implement, adjust the stabilizers so that sway is stopped by one stabilizer going into tension *before* the opposite side goes into compression. Test in both directions to make sure both sides are able to go into tension before either goes into compression.

 

[old and tired]

I like our tractor size. To me, it's pretty nibble - I have bumped up my hydraulic pressure a couple hundred PSI so the grapple can lift more weight.

You mention "soft soils" and working in the woods... neither sound good for larger tractors. I have the telescopic stabilizers and keep breaking bolts on it. I would rather that happen then crack my rear housing.

Depending on how your tractor handles the Anderson log trailer with grapple... I'm guessing you might be upgrading to a bigger tractor. What does the log trailer company recommends for tractor size to be pulled by???

 

[ovrszd]

The stabilizers (whether turnbuckle or telescopic) should be checking the sway by one of them (on the side opposite of the sway direction) going into tension. They cannot bend while in tension. If you bent one of them, it means it was in compression, and that implies you did not have them adjusted properly.

When you put on an implement, adjust the stabilizers so that sway is stopped by one stabilizer going into tension *before* the opposite side goes into compression. Test in both directions to make sure both sides are able to go into tension before either goes into compression.

Well explained.

Often misunderstood.

 

[arrow]

It takes a 50% increase in bare tractor weight before you notice a significant improvement in tractor capability.







ta.

My last tractor with loaded tires and fel weighed in at around 3200lbs. My newer tractor with same weighs in at around 4000 lbs. Bare weight for new tractor was 2500 lbs. Bare weight of old tractor was 1900 lbs. Work capability with new tractor has increased by about 150%.
I would say as a result, that at even a 30% increase in weight makes a marked difference in work capability.

Trailering is a different story all together. It isn't the pull that becomes important as much as the "stop" capability of the tractor.
We once had a small JD skidder in our company arsenal. It weighed in at 14,000 lbs. With a hitch of 11-12,000 lbs, that thing could get a bit butt puckery especially around turns with down hill terrain.
On level ground with a 5000 lb tractor pulling a 10,000 lb trailer load, very little concern. With deviations of ground pitch and obstruction, more thought about the tractor and trailer is needed imo.

 

[eyi]

I like our tractor size. To me, it's pretty nibble - I have bumped up my hydraulic pressure a couple hundred PSI so the grapple can lift more weight.

You mention "soft soils" and working in the woods... neither sound good for larger tractors. I have the telescopic stabilizers and keep breaking bolts on it. I would rather that happen then crack my rear housing.

Depending on how your tractor handles the Anderson log trailer with grapple... I'm guessing you might be upgrading to a bigger tractor. What does the log trailer company recommends for tractor size to be pulled by???

I agree, I see many advantages with this tractor size. I would add that what happened to the 3 points parts is probably my own fault and is relatively minor.

To me the bad side lies with the lifting power. As for the log trailer, that is about where I am, I need to speak with the manufacturer in order to see if the limitations I致e reached in term of lifting power lie with the log loader itself or with the tractor hydraulic.

In fact I know a full load weights probably closed to 10 000 pounds including the trailer which exceeds the Bota capabilities. That痴 one issue.

The other issue is the lifting capabilities. On that point, my technical knowledge is quiet limited but when I look at the 3800 and other tractors gpm specs, i can see the 3800 is on the low side. Is this the issue ? If it is, you mentioned you have upgraded yours ? Is this meaning that if today I can barely lift a 1000 pounds log, after the works you refered to I could handle it easily, subject to the log trailer own capabilities ?

Regards,

 

[jeff9366]

If today I can barely lift a 1000 pounds log, after the works you refered to I could handle it easily, subject to the log trailer own capabilities ?

You own a light compact tractor @ 2,600 pounds. It simply lacks the capacity for the work you want to do.

Front engine tractors are designed to PULL. High rate of hydraulic flow is not required to PULL.
Rear engine skid steers are designed to LIFT. Skid steers have higher flow hydraulic pumps than tractors and very high flow pumps are optional. Perhaps you should consider a skid steer.

In my experience owning two garage stored Kubota tractors, rubber and fabric Loader hydraulic lines begin to instantly fail at six years of use or 1,600 engine hours in hot, humid Florida.

SAFETY FIRST.

With age and use, real life tractor capabilities gradually decrease relative to "new" tractor specs following.

Kubota L3800 - attachments

2011 - 2014 Standard L Series
Compact Utility tractor
Previous model: Kubota L3400
Series next: Kubota L4600
Series back: Kubota L3200

Loader:
Loader type: Kubota LA524
Height (to pin): 94.3 inches [239 cm]
Clearance, dumped bucket: 76.2 inches [193 cm]
Dump reach: 20.2 inches [51 cm]
Dump angle: 40
Reach at ground: 63.7 inches [161 cm]
Rollback angle: 31
Breakout force (at pin): 2,462 lbs [1116 kg]
Breakout force (at 500mm): 1,874 lbs [850 kg]
Breakout force (bucket): 2,215 lbs [1004 kg]
Lift to full height (at pin): 1,131 lbs
Lift to full height (at 500mm): 855 lbs
Lift to 1.5m (at pin): 1,490 lbs [675 kg]
Lift to 1.5m (at 500mm): 1,182 lbs
Raise time to height: 3.5 s
Bucket dump time: 1.7 s
Lowering time: 2.3 s
Rollback time: 2.2 s

 

[jeff9366]

If today I can barely lift a 1000 pounds log, after the works you refered to I could handle it easily, subject to the log trailer own capabilities ?

Do you grease your FEL every ten (10) hours of use? Friction from dust/dirt and lack of lubricant around the multiple FEL pins can decrease lift capacity considerably.

 

[eyi]

Do you grease your FEL every ten (10) hours of use? Friction from dust/dirt and lack of lubricant around the multiple FEL pins can decrease lift capacity considerably.

Thanks Jeff,

I agree I am at or above limits here, as for safely pulling such a load.

But there is a nuance I forgot to mentioned about lifting power. I couldn’t lift a single 1000 pounds log ( my evaluation) with the log loader grapple ( connected on the tractor rear remote hydraulic dealer installed ) but I was able to lift perfectly the very same log with the FEL !

So is it above log loader limits or tractor limits ? I fear raising the question is answering it....

Could it be a problem with the rear remote ?

Thanks

 

[jeff9366]

I did not understand, nor did others, that your log grapple/trailer operates off the tractor hydraulics. I assumed log grapple/trailer had its own gas-engine power.

You purchased the log grapple/trailer used. Who know what stress the previous owner(s) put on the grapple. Log grapple may be designed to operate off higher PSI hydraulic pressure than your L3800 delivers. The arms on the trailer grapple may lift from farther out, so leverage works against grapple payload capacity. Have you greased the grapple? Did you receive an Owner's Manual with your purchase, which should tell you such things, or can you determine specs on the internet?

I doubt if rear hydraulics on your tractor are a negative factor. I think it unlikely a log grapple would be designed around 6.3 gpm flow of L3800 hydraulic pump. Too slow if sufficient pressure. An 3,700 pound MX has hydraulic flow of 9.5 gpm. A 5,000 pound tractor has a hydraulic flow of ~~~ 11 gpm.

Regardless, in my opinion, you are at lifting capacity of your tractor and loader. Max lifts should be occasional events, not routine, for safety.

Others will offer opinions but few will prioritize SAFETY FIRST.

 

[eyi]

I did not understand, nor did others, that your log grapple/trailer operates off the tractor hydraulics. I assumed log grapple/trailer had its own gas-engine power.

You purchased the log grapple/trailer used. Who know what stress the previous owner(s) put on the grapple. Log grapple may be designed to operate off higher PSI hydraulic pressure than your L3800 delivers. The arms on the trailer grapple may lift from farther out, so leverage works against grapple payload capacity. Have you greased the grapple? Did you receive an Owner's Manual with your purchase, which should tell you such things, or can you determine specs on the internet?

I doubt if rear hydraulics on your tractor are a negative factor. I think it unlikely a log grapple would be designed around 6.3 gpm flow of L3800 hydraulic pump. Too slow if sufficient pressure.

Regardless, in my opinion, you are at lifting capacity of your tractor and loader. Max lifts should be occasional events, not routine, for safety.

Others will offer opinions but few will prioritize SAFETY FIRST.

You are not far from the truth dear Jeff. Contacted the log loader manufacturer this morning. They said the max specs of the grapple are at 10 GPM. The former owner’s tractor was at 9.5. As you mentioned mine is in the lows 6. That’s the issue most likely.

It’s too bad cause one doesn’t have to fully load the trailer in order to stay in the safety «*ranges*» but you want to be able to put in that big one log.

Thanks for your time all

 

[old and tired]

...I look at the 3800 and other tractors gpm specs, i can see the 3800 is on the low side. Is this the issue ? If it is, you mentioned you have upgraded yours ? Is this meaning that if today I can barely lift a 1000 pounds log, after the works you refered to I could handle it easily, subject to the log trailer own capabilities ?

Regards,

GPM = speed at which you can get things done. PSI = amount of force you can put to work.

If I can remember correctly with our tractor system (someone else worked out the numbers) an increase of two hundred PSI was about the same as 200 pounds more lift. Don't hold me to those numbers... someone worked out the math. I added 200 more PSI which was at the top end of what the manual list.

A whole lot of people who checked their systems said theirs were also set at the low end of the scale. Like 2250 psi, I made mine, 2450 - and others went up to 2500. Have not seen anyone on TBN ranting about blowing up the pump. It's most likely still within some safety factor, but that just a guess (I'm willing to take the risk).

So most people bought shims to raise the PSI, like I did, but I found my cap to be lose enough that giving it a 1/4 turn to tighten it more was enough to get me up to 2450.

Another thing about the HST tractors is that the 540 pto mark on our dash is set for the geared version of our tractor (like, below 2500 RPM's) where in the manual, HST - 540 pto is actually 2580 rpms. That will increase the GPM if you are not happy with the speed.

Find out from the manufacturer, what the suggested needed PSI is for the trailer. You can use an auxiliary PTO pump / tank to make the trailer work on it's own system (might be cheaper than a new tractor).

I assume you are planning to do this long term? Not just clear a small area and be done with it...

 

[eyi]

So, spoke to the dealer. They seems to be perfectly aware of the possibility to raise the hydraulic PSI and will give a hand on this.

Will do that in the spring and will keep you posted.

So much to learn outta here !

Thanks

 

[jeff9366]

Video on new Kubota MX models:

*New* Kubota MX6 & MX54 Utility-Compact Tractor - YouTube