Oil & Fuel MF135 Starting issue

[CharlieDelta]

I have this starting issue with my MF135.

1. I cleaned the tank
2. Replaced the filters
3. Everything up to the injection pump has been purged and bled.
4. Replaced the lift pump with a new unit
5. Blew out all the fuel lines
6. Checked the glow plug and neutral safety switch wiring (no oil pressure switch)
7. Tractor cranks over but wont start
8. If I run the glow plug for 10 to 15 seconds sometimes it will start, bearing in mind the temperature here is 100 f or 35 to 40 degrees C
9. It used to start 1 click without the glow plug being connected
10. Clean fuel
11. It just wont start.

But if if I give it a squirt of Ether it starts like magic and runs like magic. Full revs and power.
No smoke or anything and runs beautifully.

I just want to get it to start normally which it should in our 100 f degree temperatures

My plan next plan of action is to run a gravity tank directly into the injection pump. Just to eliminate some stupid error in the fuel chain.
My only bet now is the injectors or a stuck metering valve or some other issue with the injection pump.

I did change the Filter in the injector pump inlet When i try and start the pump with the bleed 1 and 2 open there is a healthy squirt.
It just wont start unassisted.

The only thing I have not done because of the difficulty is loosening the fuel supply lines at the injectors. Its really hard to get access in there without removing the tank. But if there was air in the injector lines why would it run fine when I use the Ether to start the engine?

Only other plan now is to pull the injectors and injection pump and get them serviced.

Any other clues or areas I should pursue? Maybe a tired starter motor not spinning the engine fast enough? But it sounds healthy and starts 1st click with Ether start assist.


Thanks

 

[Agvg]

When you pull the injectors do check the compression if the speed of the starter is OK.

If you have fuel leaks or the return pipe is letting in air the fuel may leak back in the injection pump and you might not be able to start it because of air, you should be able to loosen pipes on the injectors and bleed them, it's tight but usually bleeding one will do.

 

[denchen]

Years ago a farmer I knew had the same problem with one of those. Everyone and his dog had a go to try and sort it out. In the end, he got it started, connected a double furrow plough to it and made it work really hard for a couple of hours. It was no problem after that.

 

[CharlieDelta]

Thanks for the replies.

1. I will check the injectors and check the compression
2. I will do a complete bleed of the system again and try again
3. I will bleed the return lines as well
4. Check for leaks
5. I dont have a plough but might put the single tyne ripper in the ground and work it.

Thanks for the tips. I will let the group know what the problem was and the solution.

 

[thepumpguysc]

How about trying this.. before u rip it apart..{pump & injectors}
Run your glow plug for a 20 count 2x.. before cranking..
If that doesn't get u going the way u want.. try moving the injection timing.. its just 3 nuts.
On the mounting flange of the inj. pump is a timing line.. THAT LINE lines up w/ degree marks on the engine block..
Make note where it is NOW.. & move it in the "opposite direction" of the arrow on the name tag on the pump.. about 1-2 degrees..
THAT will inject the fuel a smidge sooner & help alittle w/ a low compression engine..
Good luck..

 

[CharlieDelta]

I have already tried 20 X count X2 and it blows a lot of smoke and knocks.

I will try on the weekend to play with the timing. I was planning on removing the injection pump and cleaned the area to spot the timing markings. Its 100f plus in the barn so I wont be doing much this week.

I did find this Perkins trouble shooting chart for the Perkins Diesel engine which I have attached. Its a handy quick reference chart from the Perkins original d3.152 manual

 

[Agvg]

A AD3-152 in good shape starts without any form or shape of glow plugs or preheat in -15 C. Have you bleed the injectors? It's a must, are the injection pump worm you may have to tow it while you bleed it.

 

[denchen]

Ive known them injector pumps to creep off timing. Also, and this might sound crazy, but check your oil level to see if it has `increased`. Ive known a lot of the lift pump diaphragms to get a tiny hole in them, this lets the low pressure drop and fill the sump with diesel.

 

[thepumpguysc]

TU-15-11A Lang Diesel Adapter - M21 Injector
I would suggest getting some "gasket/paint remover" in a spray can.. just a quick spray on the name plate & 1 on the mounting flange & block will save u a lot of time scrapping..
Spray it on, wait 2 minutes & wipe it off..DONE.

 

[CharlieDelta]

I replaced the lift pump with a new one. I have been bleeding so much the springs on the lift pump broke. The springs are not as thick as the original lift pump. I will check the lift pump for leaks. I did check the timing mark and is hairs width off, maybe this is from an attempt to adjust the timing?

Ive known them injector pumps to creep off timing. Also, and this might sound crazy, but check your oil level to see if it has `increased`. Ive known a lot of the lift pump diaphragms to get a tiny hole in them, this lets the low pressure drop and fill the sump with diesel.

 

[CharlieDelta]

I have tried what you suggested and the mark stands out clearly. This Diesel Adapter what do I do with this device, it does not appear to be the right adapter for the MF135 perkins injectors?

TU-15-11A Lang Diesel Adapter - M21 Injector
I would suggest getting some "gasket/paint remover" in a spray can.. just a quick spray on the name plate & 1 on the mounting flange & block will save u a lot of time scrapping..
Spray it on, wait 2 minutes & wipe it off..DONE.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Then you'll need to post a picture of YOUR injector..so we can lead u to the "correct" compression check adaptor.
BTW> that "gasket remover" trick is the best, isn't it.?? no fuss, no muss..just spray it on & wipe it off..

 

[denchen]

These old Perkins were a pretty good starter and its hard to see what is going wrong. I assume its a pull cable to stop and the cable is pushing the lever on the injector pump all the way to the end, and you start on full throttle. Its strange she runs ok after its had a sniff of ether.

 

[CharlieDelta]

OK Long saga on the starting issue. Its always the basics.

1. I had a cracked injector line and a nut that was not seating properly on the injector causing a leak.
2. Starting aid spray could get it started but it was running rough and would lose PTO power and I could not peak the revs to maximum
3. Pulled the original injectors and they really needed a servicing. It was cheaper to buy a new set than getting them reconditiond
4. Tractor started but could not go past 540 pto revs and was losing power when slashing/bush hogging
5. Fixed the leaking injector lines and worn nuts with new injector lines.
6. All fuel lines were cleaned and blown out. Tank had gunk in it with no filter on the outlet!
7. replaced all filters and bled and still had issues.
8. Replaced filter in the injection pump inlet which ws filthy
9. Engine still running rough and not much power on the PTO
10. Exhausted my effort and called the mechanic
11. Mechanic pulled the top cover on the injector pump
12. He reset the throttle cable spring three positions on the inside on each end. It had to be move 2 position either way
13. Mechanic adjusted the throttle and revs high and low on the injection pump and now the engine is running like new.
14. You can do all the basic but you really need to do your home and learn to master the injector pump pull down process.
15. It was not the PTO clutch although in some cases the loss of power can be related to the clutch or some other issue

Anyway my engine is running like and it sound so beautiful from low to high revs which are spot on according to the service manual. Other experts could have figured this out in 10 minutes but I am new to diesel tractors. I am having a lot of fun learning while slowly rebuilding my MF135. The next job will be splitting for the main seal and to change to multipower filter and hydraulic filter which cant be accessed from the PTO cover because of auxillary hydraulics. Dont give up, now my MF135 is running like and its just in time for the grass slashing season and the dangers of the fire season downunder.

 

[DLTTrekkers]

I had someone sitting on the tractor and found that the chokeknob was loose . He the tightern it by hand and without knowing shorten that rod and pulling the choke to the shut-off posision.

 

[radios1]

I had someone sitting on the tractor and found that the chokeknob was loose . He the tightern it by hand and without knowing shorten that rod and pulling the choke to the shut-off posision.

Diesel engines don't have chokes, that's for a gasoline engine. perhaps you are replying to the wrong thread?.

 

[DLTTrekkers]

OK ! Shut-off link !