Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-(

   / Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-( #1  

TerryR

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2009
Messages
1,118
Location
Boone, NC
Tractor
JD 870
I've known for over 70 years that the only way you hook a trailing attachment to a tractor is by connecting it to the drawbar.

Until I followed all the debate here about people using a "cross drawbar" in the 3-point hitch did I even consider that anyone would use them.

But then I got older, or maybe my wood splitter got heaver? It's manageable, but lifting it to fold the stand then tugging it so the pin fits in adds to the back pain after a spell of lifting rounds onto the splitter. So it finally dawned on me that I could let the 3-point do the lifting:

cross-drawbar.jpg

Yes, I know the hitch and raise when backing if I hit an obstacle, but the splitter is pretty tongue-heavy, and I only move it a short way on fairly smooth terrain, so I think it will work fine.

The one issue I see is I'll have to watch carefully how sharp I turn, or modify the hitch on the splitter. The narrow mouth works fine on the drawbar where it can rotate freely, but can easily bind on this thing.
 
   / Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-( #2  
Nothing in this world is perfectly safe. Towed weight on a 3pt can be a problem in some circumstances. But as long as you know the risks you should be perfectly fine. I use a 3pt trailer mover all the time. I just do it on somewhat flat ground at low speeds.
 
   / Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-( #3  
I use a drawbar between the lower arms, and am also aware of the potential issues. I think most threads revolve around the 3 point raising, and actual terminology of what the thing is named!

Anyway, not necessary in the op's use, but I use a lock on the bar when using it to tow my landscape trailer. I prefer the no-tools type that is much harder to find. The only picture I could find of the type was actually made by "Zmansmac" (TBN poster)
IMG_3403.JPG
 
   / Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-( #4  
I must be lazy by nature. I'm constantly looking for easy ways to do things. I only use the fixed drawbar when pulling ground engagement equipment.
 
   / Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-( #5  
We used one for decades. Very handy. Sometimes a nuisance on account of sideways instability, but that can aid in hoooking up stuff too.

We first got it to rasie and lower a Liliston 3 spindle trail type bush mower that didn't have a cylinder on the back, just a crank.

Since we had no FEL, that thing lifted a lot of things too. Great for lifting logs to drag them.
 
   / Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-( #6  
They make a specific Trailer Mover 3 point attachment that also uses the top link. They run under $100, but I was able to cobble my own together for less. Makes a world of difference for heavier things like log splitters. Lower ball, back into place, raise ball into coupler socket.
 
   / Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-( #7  
   / Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-( #8  
I DIY'ed this,, you could convert yours to a ball,, then the problem goes away,,

eui4vh5.jpg


plus, at hookup, the tractor does everything, while you set in the seat,, except for flipping the lever after hookup,,,

If I am only on level ground, I never have to even get off when I move a trailer,
just go to the next spot unlatched,,,
 
   / Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-( #9  
I grew up using one of those on the 8N, 30 years later my first 'Bota didn't come with a fixed drawbar so again I used the same crossbar.(Literally the same, my father gave me the one we used back then.) Until I joined TBN I never realized that it was wrong to use it.
 
   / Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-( #10  
I use a drawbar between the lower arms, and am also aware of the potential issues. I think most threads revolve around the 3 point raising, and actual terminology of what the thing is named!

Anyway, not necessary in the op's use, but I use a lock on the bar when using it to tow my landscape trailer. I prefer the no-tools type that is much harder to find. The only picture I could find of the type was actually made by "Zmansmac" (TBN poster)
View attachment 629725

How are those locks at the lift arms?
Are they strong enough to prevent twisting if you're using a ball hitch and a heavy trailer?

I've added the brackets that prevent rotation by connection to top link as it seems more 'solid', but it does limit how tight you can turn with some trailers, especially a camper we had that had a "triangle" instead of a "tongue". They also have one with a receiver that moves the ball back further.

Stabilizer.jpg FWDBRcvrToplink4.jpg
$55 & $75 at Funkworkz
 
 

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