Trailer Noob Here......

/ Trailer Noob Here...... #1  

gltrap54

Silver Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2008
Messages
145
Location
Topeka,KS
Tractor
B3200 Kubota
20191101_164239.jpg 20191101_164437.jpg 20191101_124858.jpg20191101_164453.jpg 20191026_115512.jpg


Was talkin' when I should have been listening.... Opened my mouth & bought myself a trailer.... 1997 T-10 Towmaster Nephew used it in his landscaping business.... I've hitch towed many campers/boats throughout my 65 years but have never owned an equipment trailer... This ol' girl has had some serious use & abuse but it won't see much use here... Bought it mostly for hauling my B3200 Kubota (and a host of equipment) to & from the dealer, etc...

I'll need to install a winch of some sort to trailer my tractor if it'd dead, so what type of winch should I buy? What about load binders & chains? I'll also need a 7 prong receptacle installed in my truck... Truck has a brake installed but I've never used it so I'm totally ignorant about it... What else am I overlooking?

OBTW... Paid $1750 for the ol' heap......
 
/ Trailer Noob Here...... #2  
Nice trailer. I wouldn't worry about a winch yet. I bought a 10k HF winch 10 years ago for the same reason as you and never hooked it up and never missed it. Still piled in the corner. Get everything else figured out first.

I would get 5/16" chain for everything along with HF load binders to tie stuff down. Chain is cheap at HF. Looks like D rings are adequate. I would make sure wiring is good and tied up nice and then brakes work. Possibly I would remove and check all the hubs and brakes unless you know they are good. I bought a new GN trailer, used it for a cross country move, put 10k miles on it and brakes
were shot buy then. Trailer was only 3 months old.

Check the grease history and make sure hubs have adequate grease. Also check for tire wear and cuts and age. Tires are good for possibly 10 years at the most..

I don't know if your controller works or not adequately but new Tekonsha controllers work super.sh nicer than older style.

Others will add to this and it seems like a nice thread to learn from.
 
/ Trailer Noob Here......
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Nice trailer. I wouldn't worry about a winch yet. I bought a 10k HF winch 10 years ago for the same reason as you and never hooked it up and never missed it. Still piled in the corner. Get everything else figured out first.

I would get 5/16" chain for everything along with HF load binders to tie stuff down. Chain is cheap at HF. Looks like D rings are adequate. I would make sure wiring is good and tied up nice and then brakes work. Possibly I would remove and check all the hubs and brakes unless you know they are good. I bought a new GN trailer, used it for a cross country move, put 10k miles on it and brakes
were shot buy then. Trailer was only 3 months old.

Check the grease history and make sure hubs have adequate grease. Also check for tire wear and cuts and age. Tires are good for possibly 10 years at the most..

I don't know if your controller works or not adequately but new Tekonsha controllers work super.sh nicer than older style.

Others will add to this and it seems like a nice thread to learn from.

Thanks Deere Dude! HF was who I had in mind for chains & binders... How long do the chains need to be? My nephew had the wheels greased, wiring checked, & replaced the hitch, all before pulling it from Colorado Springs, CO to Topeka, KS... How do I load my B3200 if it won't start? I installed a new brake controller in my truck some 10 years ago & have yet to use it, so that will be a learning experience... OBTW... My sister lived in Beaver Dam for 15 years....
 
/ Trailer Noob Here...... #4  
Thanks Deere Dude! HF was who I had in mind for chains & binders... How long do the chains need to be? My nephew had the wheels greased, wiring checked, & replaced the hitch, all before pulling it from Colorado Springs, CO to Topeka, KS... How do I load my B3200 if it won't start? I installed a new brake controller in my truck some 10 years ago & have yet to use it, so that will be a learning experience... OBTW... My sister lived in Beaver Dam for 15 years....

If it fails to start, would it cost you more to repair it in the field VS the cost of a winch to take it somewhere else to get it started?

Has the tractor had a history of not starting?

Things like that you gotta weigh VS the cost of a winch, mount, battery, wiring, etc...

You could always back the trailer up to the tractor, block the trailer wheels, put blocks under the rear of the trailer so it won't drop down, disconnect the tow vehicle, and use that to pull the tractor up onto the trailer with your tie-down chains.
 
/ Trailer Noob Here...... #5  
If it fails to start, would it cost you more to repair it in the field VS the cost of a winch to take it somewhere else to get it started?

Has the tractor had a history of not starting?

Things like that you gotta weigh VS the cost of a winch, mount, battery, wiring, etc...

You could always back the trailer up to the tractor, block the trailer wheels, put blocks under the rear of the trailer so it won't drop down, disconnect the tow vehicle, and use that to pull the tractor up onto the trailer with your tie-down chains.
Mossroad, i think leaving the trailer hitched to tow vehicle and using another vehicle to pull it up would be safer. Might need to angle the tow vehicle to the side a little to give room for the tow strap to clear.
Gltrap54, chains are usually 20 foot in my line of work, but i can foresee 10 foot chains working, just more of them. Would look for a more reputable chain supplier than HF, as cheap chains will show their value at the worst time, when you need them the most! As far as the winch, a good comealong with a long cable will get it loaded, just take your time and be careful.
David from jax
 
/ Trailer Noob Here...... #6  
Mossroad, i think leaving the trailer hitched to tow vehicle and using another vehicle to pull it up would be safer. Might need to angle the tow vehicle to the side a little to give room for the tow strap to clear.
Gltrap54, chains are usually 20 foot in my line of work, but i can foresee 10 foot chains working, just more of them. Would look for a more reputable chain supplier than HF, as cheap chains will show their value at the worst time, when you need them the most! As far as the winch, a good comealong with a long cable will get it loaded, just take your time and be careful.
David from jax
Lowe's used to have Campbell US made 20' long 5/16" Grade 70 chain for about the same price as HF Chinese Grade 70 chain. I buy the 20' pieces, cut them in half and add a clevis to the cut ends and have 2 10' pieces to use.

Aaron Z
 
/ Trailer Noob Here...... #7  
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/418641-receiver-style-trailer-winch-mount.html This link is from the build yourself forum and will show you how I mounted my winch.

You can do a permanent winch mount on the trailer or make it portable as I did, just depends on what you want to do and what your resources are. I know guys that have used 2500 lb to 5000 lb ATV winches on their trailers and they get by just fine. I choose a 9000 lb winch but I was winching heavy objects and wanted to limit the times I would have to 2 part the line. Or as suggested, you can use a come along.

In regards to chains, I prefer 5/16" grade 70 chains and matching binders. I cross chain the tractor with 4 10' chains and have 2 more 20 foot chains for implements. Plus I have 4 straps for appropriate stuff.
IMG_1071.JPG IMG_0261.JPG

The nice thing about shorter chains is they are easier to work with. But, if needed you can just hook two of them together to get your 20 feet.
IMG_0260.JPG

Enjoy your new purchase.
 
/ Trailer Noob Here......
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Thanks fellas for all your input! I'm sure I'll need more guidance in the future! :thumbsup:
 
/ Trailer Noob Here...... #9  
Number 4 pic above shows a missing dust cap on the front hub, and a dodgy one on the back, so I'd get a set of new caps, pull the affected (if not all) bearings and clean and repack, check the rear seal, etc. Way cheaper and more pleasant to do it now than along the road somewhere when the rain is lashing down.
 
/ Trailer Noob Here...... #10  
I have a Warn 9k winch on a plate welded to a 2” square tube. It mounts in a 2” receiver welded to the front frame. The winch and battery are kept in the tongue toolbox. Instead of cutting a hole in the toolbox, the winch is pulled out and mounted only when in use. It works well, but it is heavy. The winch alone is around 100 pounds.

What trailer wiring does your truck currently support? What is the truck?
 
/ Trailer Noob Here...... #11  
I have a 12k winch mounted to my trailer and I find many more uses for it than just loading equipment that won’t start. Box store load you pallet too far forward or too far back; you can move it. Moving it back requires a couple of pulleys to reroute the cable of course. Need to drag some thing up onto the trailer, your in luck. My favorite is watching the guys crank the come-a-long, chock the wheels, loosen the tension, reset, and start over. I have been there done that got the T-shirt. Also, another note. If a piece of equipment becomes stuck, you can winch it out much better than drag it out.
 
/ Trailer Noob Here...... #12  
I bought a superwinch 9500# on Amazon a couple of years ago. It was on sale and I found a coupon for free shipping. $298 delivered to me. I made a mount that will slide into the receiver on my pickup and fabbed a mount on the neck of my trailer. Figured it was worth it considering I am not as willing to use a come along these days. Age makes you work smarter!
 
/ Trailer Noob Here......
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Number 4 pic above shows a missing dust cap on the front hub, and a dodgy one on the back, so I'd get a set of new caps, pull the affected (if not all) bearings and clean and repack, check the rear seal, etc. Way cheaper and more pleasant to do it now than along the road somewhere when the rain is lashing down.

What specifics do I need to order the correct new dust caps for this trailer?
 
/ Trailer Noob Here...... #14  
Hoyts is the biggest trailer shop in Topeka, that I know of. Have you considered going there and seeing what they thought?
 
/ Trailer Noob Here...... #15  
What specifics do I need to order the correct new dust caps for this trailer?

Those look like Dexter EZ-Lube. Caps come with metal cap and rubber stopper.
 
/ Trailer Noob Here...... #17  
Here痴 my winch setup.

When brand new:



We keep tie downs in with the winch and battery.



To use, lift the winch out, slide into receiver, place pin. Use remote.

 
/ Trailer Noob Here...... #18  
@Reb954, how do you like that Iron Bull trailer ?

I really like it. It is well built and handles a good load with ease. Before I bought it I had looked around at a lot of different trailers but couldn't find what I wanted. I had pretty much settled on a Walton trailer due to how well they are built, but I couldn't find one with a 20' deck and rated for 14k. One day I was traveling through Idaho and spotted a trailer sales place so I pulled in. They primarily sold PJ trailers but they didn't have one that was configured the way I wanted. I happened to see this one sitting off to the side so I asked the salesman about it. They had just gotten this one in and it was the first one they had gotten so he didn't know anything about it and stated they hadn't even put a price on it yet. I just told him to go figure out a price while I look it over. $4400 later it was mine and they threw in a spare tire.

Some of the features I liked was the heavy tongue jack that could be moved from the front of the deck to the front of the tongue so I had room to put my winch on it, the hitch is adjustable to level out the deck without having to use a drop hitch on the pickup, good wood on the deck and plenty of cross members, fenders are bolt on versus welded on just in case I need to remove them and the lights and wiring were done by someone that gave a crap by making sure all wiring was well protected and not run across sharp corners. I'm sure there were other things I liked but that is what comes to mind now.
 
/ Trailer Noob Here...... #19  
I really like it. It is well built and handles a good load with ease. Before I bought it I had looked around at a lot of different trailers but couldn't find what I wanted. I had pretty much settled on a Walton trailer due to how well they are built, but I couldn't find one with a 20' deck and rated for 14k. One day I was traveling through Idaho and spotted a trailer sales place so I pulled in. They primarily sold PJ trailers but they didn't have one that was configured the way I wanted. I happened to see this one sitting off to the side so I asked the salesman about it. They had just gotten this one in and it was the first one they had gotten so he didn't know anything about it and stated they hadn't even put a price on it yet. I just told him to go figure out a price while I look it over. $4400 later it was mine and they threw in a spare tire.

Some of the features I liked was the heavy tongue jack that could be moved from the front of the deck to the front of the tongue so I had room to put my winch on it, the hitch is adjustable to level out the deck without having to use a drop hitch on the pickup, good wood on the deck and plenty of cross members, fenders are bolt on versus welded on just in case I need to remove them and the lights and wiring were done by someone that gave a crap by making sure all wiring was well protected and not run across sharp corners. I'm sure there were other things I liked but that is what comes to mind now.
Thanks for the information. My local dealer has an 20' Iron Bull trailer for with the fold over ramps for $300 more than a Lamar trailer with stand up ramps. The dealer said the Iron Bull's are built very stout. He telling me that the same Iron Bull trailer will weigh about 200lbs more than other comparable trailers he sells. The Lamar looks like a nice trailer too.
 
Last edited:
/ Trailer Noob Here...... #20  
Thanks for the information. My local dealer has an 20' Iron Bull trailer for with the fold over ramps for $300 more than a Lamar trailer with stand up ramps. The dealer said the Iron Bull's are built very stout. He telling me that the same Iron Bull trailer will weigh about 200lbs more than other comparable trailers he sells. The Lamar looks like a nice trailer too.

The ramps were the reason I was having a hard time finding what I wanted. I knew I didn't want fold up or stand up ramps due to the trailer would have to be longer so I could fold or stand up the ramps. In my pictures both the tractor and pickup I'm hauling extend over the back of the trailer a bit so those ramp styles wouldn't work for me. That's why I choose the slide in ramps.

I don't know anything about the Lamar trailers but I don't doubt the Iron Bull weights more than most other trailers. Mine weights 2960 lbs. You may want to compare features on the Lamar and Iron Bull to see what, if any, other differences there may be that would add the weight like a heavier tongue jack or more cross members.

One thing I found with my first car hauler trailer is the tongue jack capacity is very important. It had a 3k jack on a 7k trailer and I was always fighting it when the trailer was loaded. The Iron Bull has a 10k jack and it works fine.

Hope this helps and good luck on your search.
 

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