Pat's Quick Hitch Pointers

[doneill127]

If you buy the Cat 1 hitch and you have Cat 1 attachments no bushings are needed.

 

[Dranrab]

If you buy the Cat 1 hitch and you have Cat 1 attachments no bushings are needed.

That is what I was hoping for. Thank you.

 

[ovrszd]

Not being familiar with your tractor, does your 3pt have telescoping stabilizers or turnbuckles?

If telescoping, use them to space the arms correctly.

 

[Roadworthy]

The bolts included to position the Quick Hitch are too soft and will mushroom when tightened making them difficult to impossible to remove later. I purchased 3/8" set screws and replaced mine.

 

[CobyRupert]

The bolts included to position the Quick Hitch are too soft and will mushroom when tightened making them difficult to impossible to remove later. I purchased 3/8" set screws and replaced mine.

Agreed.

My question is, and I've never got a good answer: Why do they have to be tightened?

The Pat's System "grab hook" eliminates the function of the ball swivel at the end of the tractor's lift arm. So if the Pat's "hook" is properly perpendicular to attachment pin when arms are lowered, this alignment between "hook" and pins gets cocked when lift arms are raised, which puts a twisting side pressure on the Pat's and compression on these bolts that cause them to bend or mushroom head.
I'm tempted to leave a 1/4" gap between each bolt and the lift arm so the Pat's can "swivel" in the ball at the end of the tractor's lift arm. Is there a reason I shouldn't?



Right now my PAt's are at machine shop trying to get out the bolts that bend, then snap at the bolt head when you try to remove them. (I should of cut them off inside the Pat's before attempting). I also get sick of re-aligning the Pat's on the lift arm with these bolts when I switch from a Cat I to Cat II attachment and lift arm separation width changes.

 

[widefat]

Agreed.

My question is, and I've never got a good answer: Why do they have to be tightened?

The Pat's System "grab hook" eliminates the function of the ball swivel at the end of the tractor's lift arm. So if the Pat's "hook" is properly perpendicular to attachment pin when arms is lowered, the attachment pin is cocked when lift arms are raised, which puts a twisting side pressure on the Pat's and compression on these bolts that cause them to bend or mushroom head.
I'm tempted to leave a 1/4" gap between each bolt and the lift arm so the Pat's can "swivel" in the ball at the end of the tractor's lift arm. Is there a reason I shouldn't?



Right now my PAt's are at machine shop trying to get out the bolts that bend, then snap the bolt head when you try to remove (I should of cut them off inside the Pat's before attempting). I also get sick of re-aligning the Pat's on the lift arm when I switch from a Cat I to Cat II attachment.

I've noticed that if the bolts become loose and the hitch becomes slightly canted, it can be very difficult to get the hitch pin out of the hitch.
I'm wondering if the bolts are intended to keep the hitch in line with the 3 point arm to prevent this.
This does create the problem you mention with the bolts though ("compression on these bolts that cause them to bend or mushroom head"
So I dunno.

 

[doneill127]

The bolts do mushroom not a lot but enough to prevent removing them. This hasn’t been an issue for me. When I need to remove them to put my backhoe on I just loosen the bolts pull the ball pin and take it off with the bolts still on. If I ever have to remove them I figured I either cut the bolts off on the inside somehow and back them out normally or cut the heads make a slot and screw them in till they fall out.

 

[toukow]

If you research this product on the forum, you will see a number of recommendations to replace the bolts with Grade 8 or the like. I read it, but didn't bother because of the light use of my tractor. It was a mistake as the the bolts ended up stretched and some could not be removed. Someone on the forum said to cut them on the inside, and I should have followed their advice as it would saved me the headache of getting them stuck.

The manufacturer seems to have a good reputation on the forum, and comments indicate good customer service too from what I read. Why they choose to sell these with such cheap bolts given the stresses involved is beyond me. I'd prefer they charge an extra $2. If they've changed this in the latest versions, please ignore my comments as mine are several years old. I'm going by what I see online as to the bolts provided.

 

[Dranrab]

Not being familiar with your tractor, does your 3pt have telescoping stabilizers or turnbuckles?

If telescoping, use them to space the arms correctly.

Telescoping.

 

[Dranrab]

The hitches come in today. Can someone show me exactly which bolts need to be replaced.