Hydraulic top and side link?

[Imold]

Howdy, I am new to owning a sub compact GC1705 and I have been reading a lot about adding a valve for operating the top and side link when using a back blade or box blade.

Now my question is, if I remove my FEL and my FEL controller is still on my tractor what is keeping a person from getting longer hydraulic hoses for the top and side link and attaching them to the FEL controller then up and down would control the the top link and the bucket tilt up and down movement would control the side link or is the valve to big and you would end up blowing the hoses or seals.

This is something I have been thinking about for awhile, sure it would be extra work or time to remove the top and side link when hooking the FEL back up but if you do not need to use the FEL when you are back blading or box blading would this be a way to get around paying extra for another valve assembly and installation?

Feel free to shoot my idea down or tell me why this is a dumb idea but to me it seems like it would work, could add weights to the front if needed, I basically just mow and will be doing driveway repair and if I do not need my FEL on why not try this.


Jim.

 

[oosik]

Routing the hoses sure would be easier than the $$$$ for a third function. Waiting for those who know to chime in.

 

[Scrambler82]

It almost sounds too easy, sounds interesting though.

I have used an older Tractor with three extra valves on the rear for the owners Extra HD Box Blade, the three valves run side and front to back controls and the third control is for the Stratifies, hydraulically controlling their depth.

But... where was I going, I found it easy and more control with the Three Levers on the side, you can watch the box blade, grader Scraper, etc, while doing adjustments, seems easier to get what you want while moving along.

Just me taking out loud ! If I were to do it, and I did want to, and barring extra cash, the rear control would be where I would be, but only two controls, no depth control.

Added: Also, just thought, smell the smoke, "If you are using the FEL Controls for the Scraper, and you are scraping and decided you needed to move the pile of material you have gathered, being able to use the FEL would be a plus... without changing connections.

 

[kennyd]

Your idea has merit and is technically feasible, but, yes there is always a but...I think the extra work to swap back and forth plus not having access to your loader when doing grading jobs (usually a main reason for having a TnT setup) makes it a deal breaker for most users.

 

[ovrszd]

The FEL valves will work fine. I too think the joystick might be a bit uncomfortable to use while twisted in the seat looking back.

Plumbing space is at a minimum on a SCUT but maybe diverter valves could be added and controlled with a switch back and forth between TnT and FEL?

 

[BukitCase]

I think that if you chose directions for the diverted FEL controls, the joystick could be more intuitive than separate controls for the TnT - My 580B loader is early joystick, couldn't be more intuitive if you tried - "keep" the load by pulling sideways TOWARD you (TnT - left tilts blade left (duh) - "dump" the load by pushing it AWAY from you (to the right) - TILT the blade RIGHT by moving the joystick to the right -

Front-back movement - it's intuitive on the FEL if you imagine a rope tied to that lever; pulling on it pulls up the loader (and lifts the back blade) or, if your mind works a bit different, front/rear movement does the same, which for the back blade - lever to rear would push the blade DOWN -

Either way, by the 3rd or 4th time you move those levers you probably won't forget it again.
One more thing - the front/back movement for the diverted use might better be dictated by which direction you MIGHT want FLOAT... Steve

This is such a cool concept it's making me sorry that NEITHER of my other tractors has a FEL

 

[Scrambler82]

Imold,

Have you taken time to check out any of the parts needed for the rear controls ?

Here is where I was going to but haven't gotten there yet.

Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com

Talk to Brain, he gave me some good numbers a while back, and offered a lot of knowledge to get the job done.

Luck on your choices.

 

[Imold]

My thinking is that not having the FEL on would not be a big issue and knowing that a person should stay away from making piles where you would need the FEL as you grade, the fel is not that hard to remove and put on with these newer sub compact tractors.

I have looked at how I would run the lines and it looks doable, the biggest cost would be buying the two hydraulic cylinder links but a person would need them any way if they were going to spend the big bucks on a separate system.

Like I mentioned it is just a idea I had that I needed input on and have not seen anyone else talk about it or bring it up in general so I thought I would jump in the kitchen with both feet and see what the feeling were on this.

Need to add this but a person might not need to remove the FEL if they can get to the lines, just raise the FEL up a couple feet and disconnect the lines and if need be put a cylinder lock on to prevent the rams from collapsing.


Jim.

 

[/pine]

Howdy, I am new to owning a sub compact GC1705 and I have been reading a lot about adding a valve for operating the top and side link when using a back blade or box blade.

Now my question is, if I remove my FEL and my FEL controller is still on my tractor what is keeping a person from getting longer hydraulic hoses for the top and side link and attaching them to the FEL controller then up and down would control the the top link and the bucket tilt up and down movement would control the side link or is the valve to big and you would end up blowing the hoses or seals.

This is something I have been thinking about for awhile, sure it would be extra work or time to remove the top and side link when hooking the FEL back up but if you do not need to use the FEL when you are back blading or box blading would this be a way to get around paying extra for another valve assembly and installation?

Feel free to shoot my idea down or tell me why this is a dumb idea but to me it seems like it would work, could add weights to the front if needed, I basically just mow and will be doing driveway repair and if I do not need my FEL on why not try this.
Jim.

IMO...The primary reason to have dedicated rear remotes is if you are doing typical grading work (where T&T are paramount) having a loader is invaluable... and for typical gravel/dirt lanes/drives etc...nothing complements a loader like a box blade and vice versa...

 

[oosik]

If you are going with TnT you will need hydraulic cylinders. No matter which way you want to control them. Go ahead and run lines from the FEL controls. If it doesn't work out for you - you can always add a third function valve setup. OR - just go back to manual top and tilt and sell the two hydraulic cylinders.

 

[Fallon]

I use my loader a lot when grading with my box blade, depending on the job. Also, your loader makes for good ballast & traction.

Regen on your curl circuit can cause some unexpected behavior if you dont understand what's going on. Not a show stopper by as ny means though & you can search for what it is & does easily enough.

I'd second the recomendations for a diverter(s) if you can swing it, but just stealing the loader lines will work.

 

[Redlands Okie]

The diverter valve would work great. They make manual and electric ones. A john deer I used to run had a switch you flipped and the joy stick would then alternate front to back. Think it was stock but not sure.

The one issue I had with it was running grading attachments on the 3 point. It took a little getting use to since the joy stick was a bit of a reach when your trying to look back over your shoulder. Of course I have no idea where your joy stick is located, up near the engine or back near the seat.

 

[Imold]

I have looked into the electric diverted valve as a option, button right on the joystick.


Jim.

 

[Redlands Okie]

They work pretty really well

 

[Imold]

I also found this dual rear remote valve where side A has float and B does not, A would be top link of course and B side link, I know nothing when it comes to hydraulics which could be dangerous but I know better then to just hap hazardously do it without asking questions.

This would work too I believe maybe better do to space.


I understand that one line is a inlet from pump and one a outlet to the reservoir and side A would be the top line B would be side link but knowing what fittings and line to get and plumbing would be the main issue, links would not be hard but also not cheap.

I am in no hurry to do this so I will keep asking and looking till I get the right set up and also figure out where to mount the valve it self which could be interesting.


Jim.

 

[Fallon]

I also found this dual rear remote valve where side A has float and B does not, A would be top link of course and B side link, I know nothing when it comes to hydraulics which could be dangerous but I know better then to just hap hazardously do it without asking questions.
View attachment 619517
This would work too I believe maybe better do to space.
View attachment 619519

I understand that one line is a inlet from pump and one a outlet to the reservoir and side A would be the top line B would be side link but knowing what fittings and line to get and plumbing would be the main issue, links would not be hard but also not cheap.

I am in no hurry to do this so I will keep asking and looking till I get the right set up and also figure out where to mount the valve it self which could be interesting.


Jim.

There are tons & tons of posts here on TBN about adding rear remotes. All CUTs & SCUTs use the same open center system with a power beyond loop. The only difference is how the plumbing lines are routed. You'll have different space & mounting constraints, but they all work the same way.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/295816-kubota-l3200-tnt-3rd-function.html is my install off my former L3200.

There are some good YouTube videos on open center vs closed center hydraulics. Once you realize how open center works life gets really easy & just becomes an exercise on routing hoses.

 

[lennyzx11]

Though I made my own rear remotes, I used a diverter valve from Kennyd that has worked flawlessly for my grapple.
Fitrite quoted me a more than fair price for my rear remotes and tnt but I couldn’t wait the lead time then. Reminds me, I still haven’t did a side link for the tilt yet.