Kubota L5240 Hydraulic leak...need help please

[rfc143]

After an hour of mowing, I park the tractor and notice what looks like hydraulic fluid leaking out of the little drain directly in the middle of the tractor...almost beneath the "windshield" of the tractor. When the engine cools, it stops, after leaking a few ounces or so. A friend thought it was hydraulic fluid leaking through a seal from the transmission to the clutch housing. Not sure what the drain is there for, but it certainly can't be for hydraulic fluid. He said the only way to fix it was to split the tractor.

I don't think I'm losing more than a quart or so every 100 hours; I've begun to measure how much, but would appreciate confirmation (or refutation) of the above. As long as I keep the hydraulic fluid level up, is there anything to worry about? Hydraulic oil is a lot cheaper than splitting the tractor.

 

[Leejohn]

Yes tractor has to be split, it's coming from the engine drive shaft seal or gasket at the trans or from the 4wd shaft seal at the trans.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

The usual source that I read here is the seal on the front drive shaft.

David

 

[Leejohn]

Check this thread http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...plitting-kubota-gl4240hst-4wd.html?highlight=

 

[scdeerslayer]

Drain is there to drain any moisture in the clutch housing. It should state this in the owner's manual.

 

[rfc143]

Understood. I was looking for advice on the advisability of keeping an eye on the fluid levels. Are there any other problems with hydraulic fluid leaking into the case?

 

[MHarryE]

No problems - it will get worse. My L5740 did not leak when cold, minor drip when used moderately, but a light stream when pulling hard and steady for an hour on a warm day. Happened about 850 hours. Problem was seal on output shaft from transmission coupling to front wheel drive. When I discovered the leak (when it was streaming) I went to visit my dealer and he showed me another Grand L sitting in the shop getting the same seal replaced. Used mine with the leak until the dealer had time to work on splitting it. The shaft is near the bottom of the case (you can see the approximate location by looking at your driveshaft going through the oil pan) so the oil coming out has an easy path to the drain. Just remember to check the level frequently and watch the puddle on the floor where you park it to see if it starts expanding faster, a sign the leak is getting worse.

 

[rfc143]

Well, I've been keeping my eye on this, and am changing my thinking. As David suggests above, It seems like the oil is coming from the tube going to the front axle. I'm not in front of my manual at the moment, but took what looked like an oil fill plug out of the top left axle. It was under some pressure, and I "dip sticked" it and found only an inch of oil in there.

I checked the manual and see the "check plug"...It's half way up the axle! Could the oil I'm seeing be coming through a seal, down the "propeller shaft housing" and into the section where the drain vent is? Sure doesn't seem like SAE80 or 90 gear oil, but I hope I didn't do any damage by letting it get so low.

Can I assume the fix is easier than splitting the tractor? Not sure I'd try to fix it myself.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

Usually the front axle leaks at the bevel gear housing seals by the wheels. The drip from the split bolt on the transmission housing usually comes from the transmission itself where the front drive shaft exits the transmission case in the bell housing.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ting-kubota-gl4240hst-4wd-l4240-spilt-047-jpg

David

 

[rfc143]

No problems - it will get worse. My L5740 did not leak when cold, minor drip when used moderately, but a light stream when pulling hard and steady for an hour on a warm day. Happened about 850 hours. Problem was seal on output shaft from transmission coupling to front wheel drive. When I discovered the leak (when it was streaming) I went to visit my dealer and he showed me another Grand L sitting in the shop getting the same seal replaced. Used mine with the leak until the dealer had time to work on splitting it. The shaft is near the bottom of the case (you can see the approximate location by looking at your driveshaft going through the oil pan) so the oil coming out has an easy path to the drain. Just remember to check the level frequently and watch the puddle on the floor where you park it to see if it starts expanding faster, a sign the leak is getting worse.

Still keeping an eye on this, and it's getting somewhat worse. Leaks more when working hard on a hot day. It really doesn't leak much in the winter months; Still not enough to rationalize the cost of splitting the tractor.

Is there any such thing as higher viscosity hydraulic oil that I might use?

 

[rfc143]

Re: Kubota L5240 Hydraulic leak...Getting it fixed!

Nothing like walking in on open heart surgery. My leak got to about a gallon every 10 hours of operation so I bit the bullet and am having it done. I've always wanted to see what a split tractor looked like, so went to the dealer to look. Glad I didn't try it myself. They actually found two seals that were bad...plus some worn parts. I'm going to need to be sitting down when I get the bill, for sure. It's the first serious expense I've had with the machine, so I'm not too disappointed. Glad I didn't try to do this myself.

 

[mikescruggs]

Re: Kubota L5240 Hydraulic leak...Getting it fixed!

Looks like Townline...you may pay for it, but it will be done right and they stand behind their work. I am hoping they will have our new tractor ready any week now...just waiting for the radial R1s to come in. Good luck with handling the bill.

Mike

 

[rfc143]

Re: Kubota L5240 Hydraulic leak...Getting it fixed!

Looks like Townline...you may pay for it, but it will be done right and they stand behind their work. I am hoping they will have our new tractor ready any week now...just waiting for the radial R1s to come in. Good luck with handling the bill.

Mike

I was a little nervous, as I have a friend who had a bad experience with them. When I visited they dropped on me that the air conditioning had a leak and the entire hose from (what I think is) the desiccator near the battery up to the cab roof needed to be replaced...for nearly $900! I'm going to ask for an itemized invoice. And pray.

 

[sgtboz]

Re: Kubota L5240 Hydraulic leak...Getting it fixed!

Please keep us posted. Mine is leaking a steady stream after it's been working hard. I try to keep it topped off since I use it for my job. I keep hoping it'll jump off the trailer and drown itself in a pond so KTAC can deal with it! Ha! I'm so busy right now I can't put it in the shop but it's costing me a plenty in terms of UDT2 fluid.

Let us know how it all shakes out.

 

[mikescruggs]

Re: Kubota L5240 Hydraulic leak...Getting it fixed!

I was a little nervous, as I have a friend who had a bad experience with them. When I visited they dropped on me that the air conditioning had a leak and the entire hose from (what I think is) the desiccator near the battery up to the cab roof needed to be replaced...for nearly $900! I'm going to ask for an itemized invoice. And pray.

I am getting ready to buy my second tractor from them. I have bought two excavators (traded the first in towards the second). My Father bought a B3000 from them 5 years ago. We have bought several implements. I know on one excavator we could have saved a couple thousand dollars. I asked why I should pay more there than the other place. This was our first buying experience with them. They said they offer a 50 hour service at my place (they provide the skilled labor and I paid for the parts). They also said the other company does not have the equipment to haul several medium sized pieces of equipment. They were not sure about standing behind their product, but Townline said they would.

The 50 hour service is very nice. I could ask several questions and get good answers outside the scope of the service. Plus there were several tips throughout the serivce to help improve longevity of the equipment.

Then I had a piece break on my L4240...it went into a limp mode. I called them about 2pm one afternoon (Friday IIRC) and they said it would be 2 weeks before one of their service trucks could come out. They said I could bring the tractor down now and they would look at it. The limp mode allowed me to load it. I was there about 3:30. I was on my way by 4:30 with a part they took off a new tractor to get me going. While this was a warranty repair, I felt the treatment was very good.

Definitely talk to them about your concerns and see if they can help you out anywhere. I usually buy my parts at their open house to help save on cost of maintenance. I don't doubt prices vary and some have different experiences, even frequent customers can get and off experience. Best thing to do is be up front and ask. I found I get what I pay for and I have been happy there.

Good luck,

Mike

 

[rfc143]

I got my machine back and it's perfect! No more leak, and the remotes are a home run. As for Townline, I'd have to agree that the service was really stellar. I had it there Sunday night, and by 5 pm Monday they had it completely apart, and ordered a part or two they didn't have. Out of curiosity I priced the most expensive part (the stupid air conditioning hose that runs the length of the tractor, and had nothing to do with the original problem) on Messicks. With shipping it would have been around $700. They charged about 15% more, which does seem like a lot, but for parts you can't install yourself, I'm good with it. The thing about paying for good service is that the price bothers you only while you're paying the bill; Having a properly maintained machine, serviced by people who know what they're doing, is really worth it in the long haul, in my opinion. Just wish they weren't so far away; hauling alone was $400.

It still bugs me that a failure of a part such as a seal or O-ring can lead to such an expense to replace, but I guess that's the price of owning machinery.

 

[rfc143]

Uh Oh. A couple days after I got the machine back, it's like the power steering went kaput. Read the manual, and it advised bleeding the system by turning the wheel lock to lock, shut the machine off and then on again. That seemed to work, but a couple days later, the same thing happened. I'll call the dealer on Monday, but any thoughts on what might be causing this? The last time it happened, at the very same time the steering was heavy, I pushed on the foot accelerator and got almost nothing. Then after a couple seconds, the machine took off and the steering worked. Like it had no fluid or something. But it's full of course. Stumped.

 

[mikescruggs]

Sounds like there is some air trapped in the lines or a small leak allowing air to enter under certain circumstances. Check the fluid levels and fittings for the power steering.

Mike

 

[Leejohn]

On the right side where the hood ends at the dash panel. There is a rubber hose and it had to be removed to split the tractor. Check the clamps and cracks in the hose, You must be sucking air into the system, that hose is known to crack.

 

[rfc143]

On the right side where the hood ends at the dash panel. There is a rubber hose and it had to be removed to split the tractor. Check the clamps and cracks in the hose, You must be sucking air into the system, that hose is known to crack.

Would one expect this hose to affect both the steering system and hydrostatic drive? Trying to figure out if it's my imagination, but I thought that when the steering became hard, and I stepped on the throttle, the tractor either didn't move forward, or moved forward slowly. Then all of a sudden, when the power steering started working, the tractor took off. Finally, after starting up, and warming up, lifting the FEL off the ground, I seem to feel a "chug-chug-chug" kind of jerkiness.

The dealer said the hydraulic pump and steering pump are two completely different systems, but if this hose is common to both, it might be the culprit; they're coming tomorrow to take a look.