How to know when to change front tires on 4WD tractor?

[TORQUIN]

My front R4's seem to be pretty worn, they have about 6/32 of tread from new, which I believe is 19/32. The rears seem to have the entire 1" of tread they came with new. I figure the front wear is from turning and the heavy loads I carry with the FEL. I do notice that it is harder to disengage 4WD. I usually have to back up a ways to disengage easily. I haven't noticed much traction difference yet, as usually I'm in 2wd until I get stuck and after engaging 4wd I'm moving again.
I searched but have not seen this type of discussion here.
Front: Titan 10-16.5 R4
Rear: Titan 17L-24 R4
Does it make sense to change the fronts now, or can I wait?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[CADplans]

Traction is the ONLY reason to change a worn tire,,
I am good with worn front tires,,,

As far as the disengage 4WD,, you can find the original rolling radius,, then,,
simply inflate your worn tires to cause them to be that rolling radius.

A little extra air is WAY cheaper than buying a set of tires,,, :thumbsup:

 

[TORQUIN]

Thanks for the advice on airing them up. I did so and it is easier to get it out of 4WD.
I have not calculated rolling radius because I have not found how to do it yet. I saw it someplace on here but have not found again yet.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[ovrszd]

Rolling radius, or rolling circumference index (rci) is calculated with a given air pressure. You aren't going to find a valued chart telling you how much air to add as tread is worn off.

Replace your front tires when they no longer serve you.

 

[jeff9366]

My front R4's seem to be pretty worn, they have about 6/32 of tread from new, which I believe is 19/32.
Does it make sense to change the fronts now, or can I wait?

R4 tires are six-ply in thickness, sometimes more than six-ply. A strong carcass.

Wait until you begin to lose traction.

 

[FTG-05]

Pics? I might be in the same boat.

 

[PILOON]

You probably already know it but fronts are always 5% oversized to compensate for wear hence they do wear faster as well as being smaller.
When they approach baldness they probably are even with rears as to traction or contact.

Loss of traction will be your answer, that or when cords start showing.

 

[repete]

Good observation on the shifting out of 4wd being related to the tire radius. Make sure your fronts are inflated to the max amount especially if you carry a load in the bucket in 4wd and when you do not need 4wd, shift it out.

That difficulty of shifting is due to tension within the drivetrain. Unequal rotational speeds. Eventually this stress will take a toll on something, most likely the front tires (cheaper than metal parts) causing an even faster tread wear as they somewhat "skid" to make up the difference.

Use 4wd when you have to. Do not use it when you don't. Knowing when is the hard part. I have hills and when I come down them with a load in the bucket I better have shifted into 4wd BEFORE I realize my back wheels are skidding....

 

[calpalmer]

My old L2550 with R1 tires has plenty of traction with existing tread, but the rubber is highly checked. Is checking not a concern here, too?

 

[CalG]

I always replace traction tires right after I write the check to the recovery truck driver that got me out of the mire I couldn't get out of on my own.

It seems to work out to just about twice what the tires (and chains) alone would have cost me. ;-)

 

[ovrszd]

You probably already know it but fronts are always 5% oversized to compensate for wear hence they do wear faster as well as being smaller.
When they approach baldness they probably are even with rears as to traction or contact.

Loss of traction will be your answer, that or when cords start showing.

Actually they are setup to "pull" so you can turn when in 4wd.

 

[IndyIan]

My old L2550 with R1 tires has plenty of traction with existing tread, but the rubber is highly checked. Is checking not a concern here, too?

Not really, my fronts have cracked up a bit even though the tractor is undercover 99.9% of the time. The only time I really think about something bad happening with a blow out is going full speed down the road with a wagon behind me. That said the tires on the hay wagon are nearly transparent with all the checking but they don't seem to mind a few 1/2 mile trips a year at 12 mph... I'm going to run them till they wear out or leak too much anyways.

 

[TORQUIN]

Well, I had my replacement decision made for me, when a J-hook, on a chain, hanging from my brush guard got knocked off while working. It got hung under the RF tire and pulled into the tire. It left a gaping, irreparable hole. I opted for Carlisle Guard Dog R4 tires, as reviews I read during the search process stated that they would last longer and were more durable than cheaper tires. Just got them installed and they look great. The tread looks very deep. It looks like these 10-16.5 tires are for a skid steer. Only time will tell as to how long they will last.
Changing in and out of 4wd is a breeze now.

Chris

 

[chas0218]

Pertaining to tire wear, do you guys air your tires to how they contact the ground or just a couple under max? I have noticed my father in law R4 tires seem to only contact mostly the center of the tires on the gravel with the recommended air pressure. Seems like they are wearing more in the middle than anywhere else on the tire. I like a uniform wear pattern but is that just nature of the beast? The R1 tires I have seen on our family tractors seem to wear pretty even but we also air them on the lighter side for more ground contact.

 

[Fallon]

Pertaining to tire wear, do you guys air your tires to how they contact the ground or just a couple under max? I have noticed my father in law R4 tires seem to only contact mostly the center of the tires on the gravel with the recommended air pressure. Seems like they are wearing more in the middle than anywhere else on the tire. I like a uniform wear pattern but is that just nature of the beast? The R1 tires I have seen on our family tractors seem to wear pretty even but we also air them on the lighter side for more ground contact.

I air mine based on ground contact. On any tire, car or tractor, if its wearing heavy in the center, its overinflated for the load. It puffs up like a round inner tube & only the center is making good contact with the ground. Deflating it a bit will give it a more square profile, better traction & even wear.

 

[Texasmark]

Test is have it in 4wd, on a hard surface, running in a medium gear at a medium RPM and take it out of gear. If it slows down rapidly, the axles are at odds. Or on that hard surface, low gear and slow, turn hard to one limit and watch the front tire to surface contact. If leaving rubber, tread marks or obvious traction errors in either direction...being pushed, or pulling, time to change.

However, if you stay out of 4wd except on soft surfaces not that big of a deal. I'm not worried about the tire surviving the experience. My concern is that the front axle is a supplementary drive source and not made to take the brunt of the traction. No doubt that front axle breaks posted herein and elsewhere on the web attest to excessive front axle stress. My 2c and the way I conduct myself. Some of the OOPs pictures attest to that analogy.

 

[Rebeldad1]

When they bind up the gears for the last time before they break something.... Its time to replace the tires.

 

[oosik]

I'm always in 2WD. Unless I got to those known spots on the property. Then it's 4WD BEFORE I reach any of those spots. The R-1's on my first tractor were in great shape after 27 years. Use the tractor wisely and keep those tires out of the sun when parked.

 

[fruitcakesa]

I'm always in 2WD. Unless I got to those known spots on the property. Then it's 4WD BEFORE I reach any of those spots. The R-1's on my first tractor were in great shape after 27 years. Use the tractor wisely and keep those tires out of the sun when parked.

That is my pretty much my operating style except in winter when 4wd is essential around my steep sometimes very sloppy land.

 

[Texasmark]

Actually they are setup to "pull" so you can turn when in 4wd.

That's what I like about the Branson 4wd tractors. No need to use the brakes to turn like I have to in the Fords with 2wd.