Your last generator Maintenance Run

[3930dave]

Sloping the line just moves the problem to one end. That works for keeping liquid from pooling in a line like a crankcase breather though... If you run the crank vent out of an enclosure be sure to keep a constant slope so it can’t pool, block the flow and pressurize the engine. If you slope it up and use black iron pipe it will condense a lot of the oil vapour and return it to the engine so you use less oil. Not a good idea on a Nat gas or propane engine since you are also trying to purge a large amount water vapour through the crank vent.

The proper solution is running fuel lines on the ground and keeping the elevated horizontal section out of the top of the tank as short as possible.

Thanks !

Rgds, D.

 

[3930dave]

I came across Monel .625 dia. rods for next to nothing at a plant auction... made a lot of "Lifetime" Model A Ford water pump shafts with it...

Original shafts are plain steel... OK when in use but not so good when a car might sit unused for most of the year.

Great score, and solution. Reading up on Monel, it has some interesting applications (anchor chains for minesweepers.....).

Makes me sad (for us rust-belters) when I hear of your and other Cali or SW vehicles @50+ years old, with original brake lines. NiCopp line is what is needed in salt-country to get a shot at a decent lifespan.

Rgds, D.

 

[3930dave]

Today was my monthly test day. Ran it for an hour with a 42 amp load. All good!

Your neighbours should be buying you a nice dinner.....

With regular test runs like you do, Murphy is likely to stay away ! :thumbsup:

Rgds, D.

 

[TractorGuy]

Your neighbours should be buying you a nice dinner.....

With regular test runs like you do, Murphy is likely to stay away ! :thumbsup:

Rgds, D.

Wish that were true. I have logged well over 100 hours worth of outages in 2 years.

 

[3930dave]

Wish that were true. I have logged well over 100 hours worth of outages in 2 years.

Scarcity does focus one's attention.

With the major weather-events that regularly hit FL, wise to put the $, time, and maintenance into a reliable backup system.

Rgds, D.

 

[3930dave]

I just installed a Genmon wifi monitor to my generac whole house system. I had a client ask me about it, so i thought id check it out. The new generac system include a wifi system, but my 3 year old unit does not. It was vary easy to install as i ordered the preloaded Raspberry Pi version with external antenna. Its pretty much plug and play. The feature i really like is the ability now to do scheduled exercise modes that include actually transferring power. I tried it and even the electric clocks dont need resetting. Has a great interface page and i see rpm, power output, frequency, fuel use, utility voltage, battery voltage, tons of other stuff. It even email me when theres any change in status. It auto updates clock, including daylight savings time, and i can change exercise times and durations to whatever i want, not the set ones in generator.

Still exploring it, i only wish i could remote start and stop it IF THE POWER ACTUALLY IS OUT. But thats a feature no one can fix. Since you have to have utility power present to move transfer switch to utility side, and allow for generator to cool down after load is removed, this is one hard nut to crack.

I can remotely start, transfer and stop generator as long as utility is present. Not sure why i would want to except for routine testing or exercising unit.

grs - was that Pi unit produced by these guys ?

GENMON - Monitor your generator online

Are you running data through their network software, or is it a local solution ?

Reasonable price ?

Rgds, D.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Lots of good stuff on tank design. I used a brass sprayer mesh filter on my other generator fuel pickup. I loved those old brass spray tips with the little filter cartridge inside. I was going to do similarly with this one, with a "copper" tube, no connections inside the tank. Is there another reason not to use copper? Should one have a strainer at all?

Some severe weather came through here yesterday but the power didn't as much as flicker. The Forestry Crews finally managed to get this section trimmed. The Utility marked every last tree for trimming or removeal years ago and made a record, and was putting it out to tender. Finally, it was the Utility that did the work. GREAT guys, that even let me see the "secret" distribution map. Maybe one of the last as the process goes paperless.

 

[3930dave]

Lots of good stuff on tank design. I used a brass sprayer mesh filter on my other generator fuel pickup. I loved those old brass spray tips with the little filter cartridge inside. I was going to do similarly with this one, with a "copper" tube, no connections inside the tank. Is there another reason not to use copper? Should one have a strainer at all?

Some severe weather came through here yesterday but the power didn't as much as flicker. The Forestry Crews finally managed to get this section trimmed. The Utility marked every last tree for trimming or removeal years ago and made a record, and was putting it out to tender. Finally, it was the Utility that did the work. GREAT guys, that even let me see the "secret" distribution map. Maybe one of the last as the process goes paperless.

I wouldn't use plumbing copper (probably not what you meant ), but I don't know of a problem using NiCopp with diesel in an application like yours.

NiCopp Nickel/Copper Brake/Fuel/Transmission Line Tubing Coil, 3/8" x 25' - AGS Company AGS Company

Strainer can be useful.... you are building this yourself, so you can make it easy to service when needed. Other approach is to have a good high capacity filter on the suction side, and just let in vacuum in the tank chunkies - advantage there is you'll have early indication of tank problems, assuming a visible bowl or body.

Rgds, D.

 

[Chilliwack Murray]

The general rule is never copper or galvanized materials in contact with diesel. The main reason is that in the presence of water, there is a reaction with these materials that produces sulphuric acid which is obviously hard on fuel systems.

Now that there is virtually no sulphur in diesel I don’t think that particular item is an issue however none of the manufacturers I’m aware of have changed their standard regarding these materials so there may be other reasons to avoid it. Personally I’d stay away from copper line and galvanized fittings.

 

[3930dave]

The general rule is never copper or galvanized materials in contact with diesel. The main reason is that in the presence of water, there is a reaction with these materials that produces sulphuric acid which is obviously hard on fuel systems.

Now that there is virtually no sulphur in diesel I don’t think that particular item is an issue however none of the manufacturers I’m aware of have changed their standard regarding these materials so there may be other reasons to avoid it. Personally I’d stay away from copper line and galvanized fittings.

Interesting.

Many stationary applications (inland anyway) won't need NiCopp's corrosion resistance, so the main gain would be ease of forming. Anybody adept at forming steel lines will save money vs. the cost of NiCopp.

Rgds, D.