Todays shop time.

[daugen]

friendly persuasion did not work, bit the bullet and bought a nice US made 10'' puller.
what concerns me is putting too much pressure on the pulley, I doubt it's very strong
tomorrow's project

 

[Big Barn]

Try to put a couple pieces of flat bar on the back face of the pulley to distribute the pulling forces of the jaws.

Once the puller is under tension give it a few taps with hammer and pickle fork again.

Forget the friendly persuasion. Grit your teeth and cuss. Works for me.

 

[4570Man]

Try to put a couple pieces of flat bar on the back face of the pulley to distribute the pulling forces of the jaws.

Once the puller is under tension give it a few taps with hammer and pickle fork again.

Forget the friendly persuasion. Grit your teeth and cuss. Works for me.

Yep, it’s easy to bend or break a pulley. I know better than pulling on the inside but there wasn’t room under this one.

 

[digr]

How about drilling two holes equally spaced from the centerline of the shaft and opposite each other through the pully then using suitable bolts, nuts, and washers affix your puller.
If possible, the application of some heat might expand the hub enough to get things moving.
Reassemble with a slathering of antiseez compound to insure EZ disassembly in the future.

Does sound like a good excuse to purchase a bigger puller however, as the guy who dies with the most tools has the best auctions.

B. John

+1 on drilling and tapping holes

 

[Budweiser John]

Plan B

View attachment 592161

Perhaps you could borrow a puller. I壇 be happy to help but not really up to a road trip. Lol.

Holy cow Big Barn I wish we were neighbors your shop is awesome.

B. John

 

[KubotainNH]

The pics look like the end of the shaft needs some grinding and cleaning as mentioned but maybe you already did that after the pics were taken. Also as mentioned, I would drill holes close to the shaft as possible and that allow your fingers to fit, then use the puller. Too far out and you will ruin bend the pulley easily. Holes can be filled in with a welder if needed. Seeing you are replacing the gear box I would not be too concerned about ruining that side with a pickle fork. Bang on it, remove and spin the pully 180 and bang on it again, rinse and repeat.

 

[4570Man]

I worked on building a dovetail ramp for my dump truck to drive a mower up. I plan on welding another piece across the back to mount fold down ramps on and I have the aluminum floor from a box truck I plan on decking the dovetails with.

 

[Big Barn]

So. The dovetail will be removable and utilizes the tailgate hinge and latches?

Will you be able to lay it down by opening gate latches and raising the box allowing it to pivot on top hinge pins? Or?

Dual shield for the welds?

 

[4570Man]

Yes it utilizes the tailgate hinge pins. I haven’t decided how to remove it. The tailgate is too heavy to put back on by hand so I might just lift the dovetail with equipment. I could probably design it to come off on stands but I might just set two post in the ground and put a cross beam on it and lift it with ratchet straps. I think the welder is just gas shield but it wasn’t my machine so I don’t know for sure.

 

[Big Barn]

Crossbeam like you said would prob be the best. Finding the balance point and having it suspended would be easier and safer to insert or remove the pins as opposed to lifting with a machine.