Rear Blade Scraper Blade Choice

[3Ts]

I'm looking at a scraper blade purchase. There aren't any used ones around so I talked to the dealers within 50 miles. My choices are Land Pride RBT3596 or a Rhino 950 (8' blade). None of the dealers have one and it will have to be ordered. It seems the differences amount to the following:
- The mouldboard thickness is 1/16" thicker on the 950
- The 950 weighs ~100# more
- The rhino 950 costs about $1,000. more!

To me there isn't much of a choice to be made. I don't see the justification for the extra $1k. So, before I spend my money, is there any reason I should get the Rhino instead of the Land Pride?

The blade will have a tail wheel and full hydraulics. I've asked about cushion valves and was told they usually only put 1 on the offset cylinder I would think the angle cylinder needs one also. So, those of you who have one, what do you think about the cushion valves? I have mostly clay, gravel, tree roots and an occasional rock about football size.

 

[mcfarmall]

You should have a crossover relief valve on the angle cylinder. If you strike a solid object you can bend the cylinder rod, blow a hose, or bend something on the blade or 3PH.

 

[Thomas]

I have Woods RB72 and like it a lot...great for ditching.

 

[LouNY]

The Rhino 950 is rated for much more horsepower and weight.
As far as the cushion valve they may figure that the offset cushion will protect the blade most of the time.
For the offset not to be cushioning the angle the offset cylinder would need to be completely retracted and the
blade loading would have to be in the direction of the offset.

 

[Bigpuddie]

I have a Woods RB96.60. Love it.

 

[XSKIER]

I have the RBT 3596. I used it behind my industrial Deere 210C skip loader spreading crushed limestone around my parking lot. It's Cat 2 with down pressure, and the blade seems tough enough to handle it. I don't have the tail wheel, but see where it could be handy. Mine has no reliefs on the cylinders, I don't know if it should or not, and the dealer that I bought it from (lloyd miller new holland) doesn't know either. I should have bought from the Kabota dealer...

 

[L120]

Maybe hyped up on too much coffee right now...It would be really neat to fab up a little box scraper for my small garden tractor JD L120. Maybe 30" wide x 12" high and a long hydraulic self pumper to raise & lower it.

Ha ha...then I really would need to upgrade the trans to a K66 to handle the extra work.

 

[CADplans]

I'm looking at a scraper blade purchase.
I've asked about cushion valves and was told they usually only put 1 on the offset cylinder I would think the angle cylinder needs one also.

So, those of you who have one, what do you think about the cushion valves?

Are these scraper blades ONLY available as hydraulic,, or can they be purchased as a mechanical only blade?

If they are available as mechanical,, I would assume the blade would be set up something like my landscape rake,,,

My rake does not have much of a cushion,,,

I had one rock that was mostly hidden in my driveway, and about 3 or 4 times I hooked it with my 584 IH and the Rhino blade I had at that time,,
when I did hook it,, the tractor would come to a pretty abrupt stop,, but, nothing was damaged.

The rock was at the very edge of the driveway,, so the blade hooked the rock with the very tip end of the blade,,

I was always positive that something HAD to be twisted,, but, it never happened,,

The last time I did some major work to my driveway, I had a guy with an excavator remove the rock,,

At least now I know why I never moved the rock!! :laughing:

 

[WranglerX]

Maybe hyped up on too much coffee right now...It would be really neat to fab up a little box scraper for my small garden tractor JD L120. Maybe 30" wide x 12" high and a long hydraulic self pumper to raise & lower it.

Ha ha...then I really would need to upgrade the trans to a K66 to handle the extra work.

Will the K66 direct replace the K46?

Dale

 

[L120]

Will the K66 direct replace the K46?

Dale

Yes...the only thing that really is different is the axle shaft size of 1" dia. This of course affects the rear wheels like mine are 3/4" dia w/key.

When the time comes, I'll pay the $1800 for the kit to upgrade my tractor into a tow monster. Already put in a 27 HP commercial briggs. It's a beast still a lot less money invested than buying a new tractor.

Link to K66 upgrade kit...brace yourself - it's pricey but includes everything you need.
K66 Upgrade Kits

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I'm looking at a scraper blade purchase. There aren't any used ones around so I talked to the dealers within 50 miles. My choices are Land Pride RBT3596 or a Rhino 950 (8' blade). None of the dealers have one and it will have to be ordered. It seems the differences amount to the following:
- The mouldboard thickness is 1/16" thicker on the 950
- The 950 weighs ~100# more
- The rhino 950 costs about $1,000. more!

To me there isn't much of a choice to be made. I don't see the justification for the extra $1k. So, before I spend my money, is there any reason I should get the Rhino instead of the Land Pride?

The blade will have a tail wheel and full hydraulics. I've asked about cushion valves and was told they usually only put 1 on the offset cylinder I would think the angle cylinder needs one also. So, those of you who have one, what do you think about the cushion valves? I have mostly clay, gravel, tree roots and an occasional rock about football size.

You only need a cushion valve IMO if you tend to work faster than you should be. Also any cushion valve to be of full use can never be fully extended of retracted. I have not come across a reason to need one yet, but that is just me.

So you have 4 sets of rear remotes?

I highly recommend that you get the skid shoes, they help stop gouging even when you have a tail wheel.

If you want to save some money and get a better product, order the RBT3596 with no adjustors at all. You can purchase welded cylinders for less money and get the proper length hose kits so that you don't have hoses coiled up to take up the extra length.



Just my :2cents:

 

[3Ts]

You only need a cushion valve IMO if you tend to work faster than you should be.

Then I won't need it, I don't work very fast anymore and the older I get the slower I go.

Also any cushion valve to be of full use can never be fully extended of retracted.

I was not aware of that, but after thinking about it, yes, I understand why.

So you have 4 sets of rear remotes?

Not yet. I currently have a single set that came with the tractor. I added a subframe BH a few years ago and when they plumbed for that I now have access to the hoses. When the BH is off, I'll run them thru a set of stack valves mounted on the fender.

The cost for the hydraulic eqpt is an extra $1160 which includes (2) 3.5x14x1.25 cylinder, (1) 3.5x8x1.25 cylinder, (1) 2x6x1.25 cylinder, (2) cushion valves, and the hoses and fittings. The cylinder mounts are all setup for clevis end cylinders. I checked the Surplus Center prices and found $515 (includes shipping) for the cylinders. I don't know hose prices, but I'm having a hard time believing $650.

MtnView I'm sending you a PM.

 

[Overtaxed]

I went through the same blades to wind up with what I have. I couldn't find anyone willing to sell me a LP or Woods, so I went with a Bison. I'm very, very happy with it and it was quite a bit less expensive. It's a heavy beast and it cuts the hard clay soil in my area like nothing. I'm going to post a few pictures and videos on my thread shortly, but I'd encourage you to look at it, it's been good to me in the 10 or so hours I've used it so far.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/406953-bison-nb80-240-review.html#post5307925

BTW, my tractor is about 7-8000 lbs and I can't offset this blade and really dig with it. It's too much for the tractor, just pushes the thing sideways. If you plan to dig heavily with it, make sure you get one that's wide enough without an offset or have a really really heavy tractor. It pushes my tractor sideways like it's made out of balsa wood if I get into hard dirt with it. Works great for pulling soft soil/stone around but I can't dig when I'm offset.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I went through the same blades to wind up with what I have. I couldn't find anyone willing to sell me a LP or Woods, so I went with a Bison. I'm very, very happy with it and it was quite a bit less expensive. It's a heavy beast and it cuts the hard clay soil in my area like nothing. I'm going to post a few pictures and videos on my thread shortly, but I'd encourage you to look at it, it's been good to me in the 10 or so hours I've used it so far.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/406953-bison-nb80-240-review.html#post5307925

BTW, my tractor is about 7-8000 lbs and I can't offset this blade and really dig with it. It's too much for the tractor, just pushes the thing sideways. If you plan to dig heavily with it, make sure you get one that's wide enough without an offset or have a really really heavy tractor. It pushes my tractor sideways like it's made out of balsa wood if I get into hard dirt with it. Works great for pulling soft soil/stone around but I can't dig when I'm offset.

Probably the biggest issue with the Bison blade like yours of the size that the OP is looking at is that it is only cat 2. If you have a cat 1 only tractor, this becomes an issue. Not that there are not work arounds, but it is some thing that would have to be dealt with.

 

[powerscol]

I have the RBT3584 on my CT 235, Offset is manual but pitch and swing are hydraulic. Love it. Makes easy work of plowing the drive. The skid shoes in my opinion are a must have. Brian - thanks again on the advice.

 

[Overtaxed]

Probably the biggest issue with the Bison blade like yours of the size that the OP is looking at is that it is only cat 2. If you have a cat 1 only tractor, this becomes an issue. Not that there are not work arounds, but it is some thing that would have to be dealt with.

The blades he's looking at are in the same weight range as mine though, right? Honestly, my tractor is too light for the blade I have; if you went much lighter/smaller, I think you'd be way "overbladed". I can't believe how easily that blade can push my tractor sideways. And that's 4WD, loaded tires, a FEL on it and a cab. About as heavy as you can possibly make my machine and the Bison just tosses it around if you get into it. I'm glad I went big and heavy on the blade and I'd suggest the OP do the same, rather have too much blade that I can't hurt than too little blade that I can turn into a pretzel.

And yeah, the cat 2 thing was an issue for me too. My tractor is cat 2, but most of my other implements are cat 1. When I bought the blade, I had to budget all the bushings (to take everything to cat 2) and a new quick hitch (Pats) for the cat 2 connection. Probably another 400 bucks or so. Glad I did it though, should have stayed cat 2 from the beginning, I bushed down my quick hitch to cat 1 and then wound up getting some cat 2 implements. Seemed like a good idea at the time; live and learn. At least I didn't order a cat 1 hydro top link, that would have been a real expensive mistake!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The blades he's looking at are in the same weight range as mine though, right? Honestly, my tractor is too light for the blade I have; if you went much lighter/smaller, I think you'd be way "overbladed". I can't believe how easily that blade can push my tractor sideways. And that's 4WD, loaded tires, a FEL on it and a cab. About as heavy as you can possibly make my machine and the Bison just tosses it around if you get into it. I'm glad I went big and heavy on the blade and I'd suggest the OP do the same, rather have too much blade that I can't hurt than too little blade that I can turn into a pretzel.

And yeah, the cat 2 thing was an issue for me too. My tractor is cat 2, but most of my other implements are cat 1. When I bought the blade, I had to budget all the bushings (to take everything to cat 2) and a new quick hitch (Pats) for the cat 2 connection. Probably another 400 bucks or so. Glad I did it though, should have stayed cat 2 from the beginning, I bushed down my quick hitch to cat 1 and then wound up getting some cat 2 implements. Seemed like a good idea at the time; live and learn. At least I didn't order a cat 1 hydro top link, that would have been a real expensive mistake!

Yes the blades are all similar in weight and capabilities. I think that you may be trying to do to much with the blade offset if it turns the tractor side ways real easily. I think for these tractors that actually digging with the blade offset very far is a real issue. Not sure that they are even intended to be used for that. More of a clean up type of thing in my mind.

I have a Land Pride RBT45108. So around 1250lbs with the hydraulics and skid shoes. My blade offsets 35". My tractor is well over 12,00lbs with no 3pt implement. I would say with the blade fully offset, a 3" cut is probably about the best I can do and not fight getting the results that I'm normally looking for, but then that is about as deep a cut that I ever make even with the boom straight behind me. To get the results that I look for that's about maximum cut for me no matter what the position of the blade. In reality I usually make a 1 1/2" cut, I think that is what my skid shoes are set for.

 

[wcampbell47]

I'm looking at a scraper blade purchase. There aren't any used ones around so I talked to the dealers within 50 miles. My choices are Land Pride RBT3596 or a Rhino 950 (8' blade). None of the dealers have one and it will have to be ordered. It seems the differences amount to the following:
- The mouldboard thickness is 1/16" thicker on the 950
- The 950 weighs ~100# more
- The rhino 950 costs about $1,000. more!

To me there isn't much of a choice to be made. I don't see the justification for the extra $1k. So, before I spend my money, is there any reason I should get the Rhino instead of the Land Pride?

The blade will have a tail wheel and full hydraulics. I've asked about cushion valves and was told they usually only put 1 on the offset cylinder I would think the angle cylinder needs one also. So, those of you who have one, what do you think about the cushion valves? I have mostly clay, gravel, tree roots and an occasional rock about football size.

If you need to ditch then my suggestion may not work for you.

Years ago I opted to go with a pull behind 3 point land plane. Angled blades helped crown the roads I worked on. I now have a skid steer and use a land plane with it. Guy with a 90 hp and scraper blade was grading private roads but left waves in the road as is with typical pull behind devices. With the land plane I have been able to cut many of those down reducing the pitching as one travels down the road. Land planes come in various sizes and hp models. My preference currently is Grade Max. GRADE-MAX Road Graders • Spreader Graders. I use mine maintaining roads for two private subdivisions, building driveways and house pads.

 

[oosik]

3Ts I've got a Rhino - 8 foot -950 rear blade. It's a REAL beast. Had a Land Pride - 8 foot - RB3596. It was just too light for summer driveway maintenance. I have a mile long driveway. The surface is gravel, sand, silt, volcanic ash. It hardens up to equal concrete in the summer.

The Rhino and its added weight does it fine in the summer. Its all I would want to swing behind my M6040. My tractor - 820 pound grapple - 1550 pound of Rim Guard in the rears - 1100 pound Rhino rear blade. It all adds up to 10,100 pounds across the local ADM( Archer Daniels Midland ) grain scales.

BTW - I have a Fit Rite hydraulic top link. Its almost a required necessity when using ground contact implements. Make alterations on the go. No stop - adjust - go - stop - adjust - go - on infinitum. Just tap the hydraulic lever - see the results - tap until its perfect. All while you are on the go - no stopping.

 

[3Ts]

Thanks to all. My tractor is 7 to 8000# and I expect to do a lot of ditching and leveling areas. I do not expect to be taking anything more than a "light" cut meaning an inch or so at a time. The soil varies from "squishy" to "concrete" depending on it's moisture content, so having the blade available at the right time is important. From all the input I've received, I think anything more than 1000# blade will be to much for my tractor and anything less isn't enough. I've used the light (200# - 300#) box and angle blades before and they were just to light.

I do have one area that I need to remove the top 4" of soil. I will see how the blade works with that (multiple passes). I can always use my tiller to break it up first if I need to.