Pouring a concrete ramp at the waters edge.

[ultrarunner]

Fiberglass rebar... comes in the same steel rebar sizes.

First time I used it was in a slab under a MRI imaging machine... contractor said he used it for his private boat ramp at the lake.

 

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Fiberglass rebar... comes in the same steel rebar sizes. First time I used it was in a slab under a MRI imaging machine... contractor said he used it for his private boat ramp at the lake.

Fibreglass!? Have to check that out. Would sure be a lot easier to carry around.

 

[ultrarunner]

It's more expensive especially if you need a lot.

For the MRI machines there was no other option as nothing can be magnetic unless we went with non-magnetic Stainless which costs even more.

American Fiberglass Rebar

Eco Pultrusions Fiberglass Pultruded Bar, Fiberglass Rebar, 3/8"*48in (3) | eBay

 

[PNW1020D]

Sorry if these have been answered....

EDIT:

How steep is the slope? Got it.

How long will the ramp be? Got it.

Is the boat house floor SOG with a "t footing" perimeter?

I would OVER excavate for sure, lay in a very thick base course consisting of a single layer of 2-4" rip rap, then 4-5" (clean crushed rock 1 1/4") and compact the whole area in 2-3" lifts. I would even go as far as laying a some type of soil stabilization system (geo-fabric) under the base course to help stop soil migration, settling, etc. It should be a non-woven type with a strong tear strength.

This, in my opinion, is even more critical if the boat house is not SOG and is just post and beam with a gravel floor.

Meaning, you wont be able to dowel into the existing slab to tie in the new boat ramp.

Also, at the end of the ramp I would run a continuous bar, bent at 90 degrees at each end, that will be tied into the perimeter reinforcing bars of the slab. Give yourself 3' of lap to splice.

 

[Renze]

A company around here sells used mining conveyor belts as driveway or feed silo floor repair. Its a 8 to 10 foot wide roll with lots of steel wire in it, their 16 ton forklift cant lift it, only push it off the lowboy and roll it out to cut it to length. If you had a few yards of that 1 inch thick reinforced conveyor belt you could simply roll it up, level the subsoil and roll it back if it ever gets washed under.

 

[jimmysisson]

A stiff batch I n the mixer is crucial. You are asking gravity to suspend its behavior until the concrete starts to set. A hot mix will help some. Have plenty of guys around who know what they're doing. Pour from the upper end down. Consider chopped fiberglass in the concrete - adds a little strength. Otherwise the suggestions you're getting are good. Good luck, and be all ready before you call for concrete. Last minute stuff is stressful! Jim

 

[check]

A stiff batch I n the mixer is crucial. You are asking gravity to suspend its behavior until the concrete starts to set. A hot mix will help some. Have plenty of guys around who know what they're doing. Pour from the upper end down. Consider chopped fiberglass in the concrete - adds a little strength. Otherwise the suggestions you're getting are good. Good luck, and be all ready before you call for concrete. Last minute stuff is stressful! Jim

Yup “Concrete’s here!” gets everybody fired up like a disturbed ant’s nest!

So, after a good long time doing other things, I finally got the site pretty much prepared, and I am ordering the gravel next week. (3/4” clear)

Will go with rebar and a 6” slab. Unfortunately, after a lovely fall, now the temperatures are starting to dip below freezing on a few nights. Bummer, as I cannot do anything until the water is at its absolute lowest, which it will be in maybe a week or so. But, if the weather doesn’t cooperate… Well, there is always next year.

 

[check]

Sorry if these have been answered....

EDIT:

How steep is the slope? Got it.

How long will the ramp be? Got it.

Is the boat house floor SOG with a "t footing" perimeter?

I would OVER excavate for sure, lay in a very thick base course consisting of a single layer of 2-4" rip rap, then 4-5" (clean crushed rock 1 1/4") and compact the whole area in 2-3" lifts. I would even go as far as laying a some type of soil stabilization system (geo-fabric) under the base course to help stop soil migration, settling, etc. It should be a non-woven type with a strong tear strength.

This, in my opinion, is even more critical if the boat house is not SOG and is just post and beam with a gravel floor.

Meaning, you wont be able to dowel into the existing slab to tie in the new boat ramp.

Also, at the end of the ramp I would run a continuous bar, bent at 90 degrees at each end, that will be tied into the perimeter reinforcing bars of the slab. Give yourself 3' of lap to splice.

Boat house “floor” is water. The ramp will be outside of the boathouse.

View attachment 574742

 

[Alan W.]

The way I've seen it done, is they pour the slab, then push it into the water as far as the can after it cures, then they pour another slab next to that one. This was with a full sized 4x4 backhoe. I don't know what it weighed or how much power it takes to push a slab down hill into the water, but it sure looked pretty easy when I saw it being done.

This is the way I have seen KDFW do it, except it took about 4 good size dozers to push theirs in.

Could use a stone slinger to create the base underwater then push a slab onto it. Depends on how big ya wanna go and how much ya wanna spend.

 

[check]

Kk Done!

 

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Kk Done!

Before....



And after...

 

[check]

BTW, we poured Oct. 26, and the temp. has averaged around 40°F since then. Contractor says I can drive my 2700 lb. tractor on it with a 500 lb. bucket of gravel by now. Anyone think otherwise?

 

[Streetcar]

You should be good, most roads are open at 7 days

 

[RayfromTX]

On my pours, my 7 day strength is usually around 70-80% of my 28 day strength if I recall correctly. It just gets stronger after that.

 

[check]

On my pours, my 7 day strength is usually around 70-80% of my 28 day strength if I recall correctly. It just gets stronger after that.

Yes, but at what temperature? I have been surfing the web and one site says that when you get down to 40°, the concrete stops curing!

 

[ruffdog]

Were those 2x4's or 2x6's you were using as forms? What bag mix did you use?

 

[check]

Were those 2x4's or 2x6's you were using as forms? What bag mix did you use?

2 x 6.

And the concrete was a high Portland mix with 6-8% air called 32C2. Very strong mix.

 

[sandman2234]

If it were mine, I would NOT drive on it in the first 5-7 days. In fact, if I could stand to stay off of it in for 28 days, I would. The curing rate after 28 days will taper off and be a slow to almost no increase in compaction strength. As mentioned, most of the strength should come in during the first week, but I have seen several cases where something went wrong in the batch plant and it slowed the cure rate.
If you can stay off of it, cover it with tarps, as many layers as you can get your hands on. Curing concrete likes to stay warm, to get its strength as soon as possible. (We added steam to it after the four hour preset, slowly increasing the temp).
Good luck, David from jax

 

[ruffdog]

^^^agree. At the earliest, I would wait 2 weeks before driving on it.

 

[check]

^^^agree. At the earliest, I would wait 2 weeks before driving on it.

Well, it was in fact 2 weeks today, and I dumped a bunch of gravel at the bottom of the ramp, in order to smooth the transition from ramp to lake bottom. No problem driving on it with the tractor.