Rounded off drain plug

[DLTTrekkers]

Welcome back Kando

 

[radios1]

I read the original post again and not sure if anyone answered the question of where to get a replacement drain plug. The original part number is likely obsolete but I'm near certain there is a replacement number. That's for starters. There is also an active aftermarket parts business for these tractors and it's an easy bet that replacements are out here. Search for it or ask for help if needed. Finally, there are tractor boneyards all over the place and many in the upper Midwest that would have the part as used. I'll bet that plug was used in models from the 1930'sto the 1960 and beyond. Ford was like that.

the Plumbing section of most stores have pipe plugs, THAT is what is used, usually 1/4" NPT size. you could also take the plug to a welder and have them weld a nut onto it.. the other type of plug is the bolt type, just a regular bolt with a copper washer under the head.. a bit back in the thread, the proper tool for the plugs, a square head wrench or socket should be used. links were posted. that will prevent the rounding off in the first place..

 

[Jstpssng]

I read the original post again and not sure if anyone answered the question of where to get a replacement drain plug. The original part number is likely obsolete but I'm near certain there is a replacement number. That's for starters. There is also an active aftermarket parts business for these tractors and it's an easy bet that replacements are out here. Search for it or ask for help if needed. Finally, there are tractor boneyards all over the place and many in the upper Midwest that would have the part as used. I'll bet that plug was used in models from the 1930'sto the 1960 and beyond. Ford was like that.

Good point. We ought to get this thread count up to 500 in no time now.

 

[sixdogs]

the Plumbing section of most stores have pipe plugs, THAT is what is used, usually 1/4" NPT size. you could also take the plug to a welder and have them weld a nut onto it.. the other type of plug is the bolt type, just a regular bolt with a copper washer under the head.. a bit back in the thread, the proper tool for the plugs, a square head wrench or socket should be used. links were posted. that will prevent the rounding off in the first place..

I had a few older Fords like that and can't remember but thought it was a large diameter stubby headed thing that looked like it was stuck to a washer. If so, that could be part of the reason it's hard to grip onto since there is little "meat" to the bolt part. I could be wrong on that because the engine oil was like that but I'm not sure on the trans nut.

 

[sixdogs]

Good point. We ought to get this thread count up to 500 in no time now.

I've got August 23rd in the pool.
Closest to it without going over.

 

[radios1]

I've got August 23rd in the pool.
Closest to it without going over.

the thread won't be dead until the problem is solved.. just leaving the OP without a fix just wouldn't be right..

 

[aczlan]

the thread won't be dead until the problem is solved.. just leaving the OP without a fix just wouldn't be right..

Come on, do you really think the thread will over once the problem is solved? That's not how we do things around here ;D

Aaron Z

 

[sixdogs]

Yes, square head.

View attachment 546567

Here's the current state of the plug. That bar should be removable, bolt on each end. The loader mounts to the frame on the front under the engine and to axle on the rear, just a support bar I suppose. Johnkn, I've tried those extractors as well, although the one I tried was the one that fit in it's current state. Once I remove the bar I'll look into using the next size down, 1/2". Bolt head would normally be 9/16"

Here's the post with the pic Kando took. What do you say go for broke with a big azz pair of quality and very aggressive vise grips and lock them tighter than Ft Knox onto the threaded portion. Either way, it's not coming out so what the heck? I've done it before and it worked.

Part of the problem is that the taper to the nut head prevents his clamps from getting an even bite or fully tightening. The full threaded portion will solve that.

 

[k0ua]

nuh-unh. little cheap inverter welders run off a light socket 15-20 amps. never popped a breaker with mine and it goes up to 200 amps. I agree if you've got to find a welder and a generator it gets to being a pain in the ***. I've never tried it, but has anyone ever seen people weld with a car battery? I bet you could stick that thing with a big battery, a jumper cable and one 6013 stick problem solved.

To weld with automotive batteries,you need at least 2, and 3 in series is better. One 12 volt battery is not really enough.

 

[radios1]

Here's the post with the pic Kando took. What do you say go for broke with a big azz pair of quality and very aggressive vise grips and lock them tighter than Ft Knox onto the threaded portion. Either way, it's not coming out so what the heck? I've done it before and it worked.

Part of the problem is that the taper to the nut head prevents his clamps from getting an even bite or fully tightening. The full threaded portion will solve that.

I've had luck with a pipe wrench where vise grips would just slip!.. bottom line, only use a square wrench on the plug to begin with, so it don't get rounded over, and NEVER over tighten it..