25 HP vs 35 HP

[Geotech]

Okay, so every time I think I have it figured out, I start thinking again, lol.

So, I was pretty set on a Kioti CK3510 or maby LS XG3135. However, I am thinking the Kubota L Series may just have enough loader lift capacity for my needs after all. That said, the L3301 is about $3,000 more than the Kioti or LS. But, the L2501 would run about the same. I really like that the Kubota will have strong resale value, that they have a such a strong reputation for reliability and that there are several strong Kubota dealerships near my property. It's pretty much Kubota country around my parts. I also like that the L2501 would not have a regen cycle/DPF filter and, maybe this is dumb, but I like that it runs at a lower RPM.

There is just no way of knowing how each would perform on my property without having each one around for a while - which is not going to happen. I'm mostly going to be clearing brush, fence lines and trails, and maybe humping logs if I get a portable saw mill. I'd like something that can tug a shipping container around as effectively as my pickup (Toyota Tundra assisted using lumber skids below the container). The extent of rotary cutting will be related to clearing woody brush. I can't foresee more than 5 acres of grass being established on the place. The tractor will be 4WD, HST with R4 tires, whichever one I get. The property is 24 acres, sandy soils, some slopes, some flats.

For those of you who have run both 25 and 35 HP tractors, what would you say the primary differences in performance are, aside from how much or how fast you can mow grass? Also, am I crazy to be comparing an L2501 against a lesser branded 35 HP tractor? Am I just falling prey to Kubota marketing hype?

 

[searcyfarms]

first thing i would consider is how close a dealer is for service, good reputation etc..... - once i have the nailed down and lets say there are equal brands close - then i would say do you plan to keep it for a long time or sell it/trade up etc......that would be important considering resale if you factor in up front costs and so forth - then i would say bigger is ALWAYS better 90% of the time - rarely do you hear someone say gosh i wish i would have gone smaller - for you and what you are doing i think you will be happier with more weight/more power especially trying to drag a shipping container - those don't pull easy

less chance of wanting ot trade up and having to worry about resale so soon - i would think you could get a bigger unit for same money in a kioti and or branson or tym or ls - i wouldn't hesitate on any of them with dealer support - i just ordered a deere today and if ls/case ih or branson would have had something in my size and needs i would have purchased theirs for a couple reasons, one price, two SSQA on the loader, GPM performance on loaders for cycle times and lift cap. So.............depending on your situation i would not just jump on the Kubota band wagon - they are good no question but are they worth it? that is the great debate/quandary -

 

[4570Man]

I’ve never had 25 hp gear tractor. The difference in a 25 hp HST to a 35 hp HST of a similar sized tractor is substantial.

 

[vvanders]

Just went through something similar cross-shopping Kubota with LS. One thing I found was that LS had a significantly higher loader capacity compared to Kubota.

For instance the XG3135 is almost a 50% larger loader capacity compared to L2501. For us we didn't have a LS dealer nearby so went with Kubota but really liked what I saw for LS.

 

[Geotech]

The loader lift capacity of the Kubota is actually much closer to the LS if taken at the pin 1.5 meters off the ground. Kubota puts their full height lift capacity out there and LS reports it at 1.5 meters. So does Kioti. LS and Kioti are still stronger, but no by 50 percent. Anyway, which models were you comparing, which Kubota did you get and are you happy with it?

 

[RayfromTX]

I used my neighbors 25 hp JD for a few years. When I was shopping I went back and forth between an LS25 and an LS35. My wife convinced me to pony up for the LS XR4140H. I will be forever glad that she did. Cost comparison to the Kubota is outrageous and the capacity is satisfying. She was the wise one.

 

[YLee Kioti]

Of the 24 acres how much of it do you plan on maintaining/shredding?
Because one that small will keep you in a 5' light duty cutter. That will keep you out there a long time.

For a 6' cutter a larger PTO HP output will be required.

As for difference between the two sizes also take into consideration PTO output, which leads us back to cutter and size.

So loader capacity and PTO both should be considered. Never did mention if your 24 acres are lightly or heavily wooded.
That also will impact how hard the machine will be asked to work. A 25 HP may meet ones needs but running a machine close to the upper end of it ability for long term is not good for reliability. It's really much better and safer to have a margin of safety.

Happy shopping!

 

[Geotech]

I doubt I will shred more than 5 acres

 

[Tractorable]

I mowed this with a L2501 and 5ft bush hog. It did great.

 

[jeff9366]

The extent of rotary cutting will be related to clearing woody brush. I can't foresee more than 5 acres of grass being established on the place.

The property is 24 acres, sandy soils, some slopes, some flats.

For those of you who have run both 25 and 35 HP tractors, what would you say the primary differences in performance are, aside from how much or how fast you can mow grass? Also, am I crazy to be comparing an L2501 against a lesser branded 35 HP tractor?

As I read this you will have five acres of grass but in addition want to mow woody brush. An L2501 is fine with a 60" light duty grass mower. If you will indeed be mowing woody brush you will need a heavier mower which will be fighting tougher verdure for which 25-horsepower will be inadequate.

The Kubota L2501 is 2,700 pounds bare tractor. I trust the other brands and models you are considering are at least as heavy. The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Heavier tractor chassis weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Heavier tractors are more stable on slopes.

As you are a tractor neophyte and have "some" slopes, plan on having rear R4 tires filled 50% to 75% with liquid.

A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important for tractor neophytes. Almost every new tractor is delivered with a glitch or two that requires correction. My kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment. Dealer proximity is less important to those experienced with tractors and qualified to perform their own maintenance.

Kioti and LS both produce fine equipment.

 

[jeff9366]

The loader lift capacity of the Kubota is actually much closer to the LS if taken at the pin 1.5 meters off the ground. Kubota puts their full height lift capacity out there and LS reports it at 1.5 meters. So does Kioti. LS and Kioti are still stronger, but no by 50 percent.

X 2

VIDEO: Let's Talk: Loaders - How specifications can be manipulated. - YouTube

 

[kthompson]

I have a B2710 Kubota with out a FEL and HST. It will handle I think a 5 foot rough cut mower well, not great but very decent. I can put that same mower on my M6800 Kubota and quickly realize how much the extra HP means. Realize you are not talking that much HP difference. I do have a JD5525 with good size fel on it. If I were to have only one tractor to do what you are talking about much rather have the 35 hp than 25. The 25 may can do everything you will need but mostly likely you will be pushing it to it's limit. At first that will not matter to you for the shear enjoyment time is a by product. However as you get efficient in using it you will realize this is slow and my skill is faster than the equipment is and regret the longer time it is taking you due to the limit of the equipment. I have learned you never want the equipment being limited by the tractor.

As to the brand you should choose, can not tell you that for some of that is yet unknown. This I do know, you want a tractor that as long as you own it you want to be able to get parts. Forget the dealership they can come and go but you must have parts and all tractors need parts if used. Some of the brands out there today I know really nothing about and have no idea how strong they really are. It might amaze you to ask even here the brands there have been out there in this size tractor over the last say 20 years that are no more or least I am not hearing of them. A good tractor with good care should last you lot longer then 20 years.

 

[newbury]

<snip> and maybe humping logs if I get a portable saw mill. <snip>

Many good replies.

But "humping logs" stands out to me.

What is a "log"? Are we discussing 8 foot of white pine 12 inches in diameter (235 lbs) or 16 feet of white oak 30 inches in diameter (5388 lbs) ?
Weights per Timber and Lumber Calculators at WOODWEB.

And what is "hump"? Are you planning on just getting the log to the ground next to the mill or will you need to lift the log up and put it on the mill?

I've a Woodmizer LT10. I've a B7610. I've LOTS of trees that are about 18 inches. And many much larger.

I could drag a 10 foot log to the mill, and get it on the 3 pt to roll it on the mill.



But that was it's limits.

So I went up to an M4700, lifts a ton on the FEL, 2 tons on the 3pt. And the B7610 gets things through my gates

 

[Geotech]

By humping logs, I just mean dragging out logs from felled and limbed trees. Most of my trees are post oak, 12 to 24 inches in diameter. I'd like the tractor to be able to drag the log and lift it onto the sawmill. I the length could vary, but I don't think it would need to be longer than 12 ft. If post oak is 64 pcf, than that would by about 600 to 2400 lbs for a 12 ft log. So, a bit or a struggle on the upper end, but mostly doable for the tractors I am looking at. But that is a very good point and something I had not calculated. It makes those few hundred more pounds loader lift of the Kioti more appealing for reasons other than just bigger numbers for the sake of bigger numbers.

Profile edited to show my location.

 

[Texasmark]

One thing that folks might overlook is the height of the 3pt at full lift. My 2400 may have the capacity to lift/operate certain devices/objects, but the ends of the lift arms aren't high enough off the ground to accommodate such. My 2000 doesn't have that problem. Based on that the 35 frame would be to your advantage.....and you really need to think about that.

 

[prichard]

I have a smaller, lighter 25hp tractor. I wish I had more weight. Sure, more hp would be nice but weight is much more significant IMHO.

How do these 3 compare for weight?

 

[newbury]

By humping logs, I just mean dragging out logs from felled and limbed trees. Most of my trees are post oak, 12 to 24 inches in diameter. I'd like the tractor to be able to drag the log and lift it onto the sawmill. I the length could vary, but I don't think it would need to be longer than 12 ft. If post oak is 64 pcf, than that would by about 600 to 2400 lbs for a 12 ft log. So, a bit or a struggle on the upper end, but mostly doable for the tractors I am looking at.

Profile edited to show my location.

From tractordata.com

Kioti CK3510 Lift to full height (at pin): 1835 lbs
LS XG3135 Lift Capacity(@ Pivot pin) (lbs): 1,700
Kubota L3301
Lift to full height (at pin): 1131 lbs [513 kg]
Lift to full height (at 500mm): 855 lbs [387 kg]
Lift to 1.5m (at pin): 1490 lbs [675 kg]
Lift to 1.5m (at 500mm): 1182 lbs [536 kg]

Note the differences in lift at pin vs lift at 500mm, so figure your lift at where a 24 inch log is contacting the forks will be a couple of hundred pounds less than the lift at the pins.

IF you are going to get a mill AND a tractor it would probably be better to go a size larger and get a tractor that will handle ALL your logs.

Or do what I did, get a tractor you know will be too small, use it for a few years and THEN get a bigger one. Small tractors can be handy and it's always better to have two tractors, and 3 chainsaws.

 

[ratpie]

a neighbor bought a 40 hp mahindra a few years back, he used it for clearing, moving, digging and fencing. now he pulls around a baler on the back of it that should be attached to an 80hp tractor. he's killing the little tractor that served his needs when he started. once you get the land whipped into shape, the hard work begins. a bigger tractor will take less hours to do the job of the smaller one. less hours is money in your pocket and a higher resale value at end of life.

when in doubt, UPGRADE! :thumbsup:

 

[Gale Hawkins]

I have a smaller, lighter 25hp tractor. I wish I had more weight. Sure, more hp would be nice but weight is much more significant IMHO.

How do these 3 compare for weight?

I agree. Weight is the tail that wags the dog

3500+ pounds is minimal I would like to have if cutting stuff requiring more than a light duty cutter.

 

[searcyfarms]

agreed, I have a skid steer for the log work, much less dangerous, more stable, less stress on equip, if you are looking for one machine to do it all get the heaviest/most lift weight/most HP you can afford - versatility is one thing, trying to use something to its marginal limits is when we get into trouble and more dangerous as well. We have NO pine in my parts, oak/hickory/walnut/hedge/locust so when u grab a log u have weight, for logs when my skid steer is not available and I need to move some distance I use a 706 Farmall w/loader - it weighs 13K with the loader and cab so be sure you have enough tractor - I cut my logs 8 to 14 feet to get them out of the timber/to the road and on a trailer or road them to my house - they are heavy - the saw mill I take them to sometimes has its own lift arms on it, u roll the log up to it and it loads the log on the track to feed it on the mill - a friend of mine just sold his Montana mill and I think it was manual load

be sure you have ballast, that is crucial when working with this stuff out on the front of the tractor, I have had my skid steer on its nose a few times due to uneven ground - I was even going extra SLOW and knew it was uneven, even subtle dips can be dangerous when you are handling more than 75% of capacity because when weight shifts you don't have a lot of options and the wheels are off the ground!!!!

what you are doing is NOT small so thinking small is out of the question