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Schoony

New member
Joined
Mar 25, 2018
Messages
9
Location
Lumby British Columbia Canada
Tractor
1942 McCormick W4
I am trying get my old 42 W4 to stop flooding. I have had the carb off so many times I think I should just use velcro. I have cleaned and checked every part in it but it floods so bad it is filling the crankcase with fuel. Any ideas at this point would be of great help.
I am 63 years old and this thing is driving me nuts. It defies all the laws of mechanics.
 
   / New member #2  
Schoony, I can't help you with the carburetor, but welcome to TBN!
 
   / New member #3  
G'day Mate and welcome t TBN from Downunder.

I'm sure that someone will be along to help you with your enquiry... Or Catherine will shift your thread to where help can be had.

Enjoy the site.
 
   / New member #4  
:welcome: to TBN Schoony...enjoy.
 
   / New member #5  
Welcome to THE tractor place. You mention you've had the carb off and checked all the parts - have you actually put in a new kit? Have you replaced the float? It could be time for a new carb too - like you and I, they simply wear out over time, seats begin to leak so no matter how new the needle valve is, it will not seal. Just some thoughts.

You should make a new thread on the general maintenance parts and repairs forum as well, maybe on the McCormick forum as well - someone(s) will certainly have some suggestions.
 
   / New member #6  
:welcome: Welcome to the forum!

:tractor: I'm going to move this thread over to our McCormick section.
 
   / New member
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Welcome to THE tractor place. You mention you've had the carb off and checked all the parts - have you actually put in a new kit? Have you replaced the float? It could be time for a new carb too - like you and I, they simply wear out over time, seats begin to leak so no matter how new the needle valve is, it will not seal. Just some thoughts.

You should make a new thread on the general maintenance parts and repairs forum as well, maybe on the McCormick forum as well - someone(s) will certainly have some suggestions.

I am new to all this forum stuff on the interweb so you might have to guide me in certain directions. I put the carb back on yesterday and it still floods but not as bad. I have a call in to a dealer to see if he can get me a kit. It still smokes like crazy and is blowing oil and raw gas out the exhaust. I checked the compression and it is at 80lbs across the board. I have a 1952 parts tractor so i am going to swap the head. I think I might have dropped a valve guide or something. Seems this is a two part problem. I will keep you posted as to my progress or lack thereof.

If you can't fix it with a hammer it must be electrical!
 
   / New member #8  
Did you check to see if maybe the float has a pinhole in it, and has gas inside..?? If not that, if the little keeper spring, if it is still there where the pin that holds the float in place, can get in a position, when slipping the bowl back on, that will bind, and keep the float from completely rising. Just simply holding the float up, with fuel on, will let you know if the needle valve is completely shutting off the fuel flow. If holding the float up shuts the fuel off, then it's just a matter of adjustment, or, finding out what's binding the float, not letting it rise.

You can actually make a tool to "see" how much fuel is in the bowl, if you get it closer to the level it should be. The drain plug in the lower portion of the fuel bowl should be 1/8" npt. Go to a hardware and find a 1/8" npt barbed fitting, and screw in there. Also get about 12" to 18" of clear vinyl tubing. Slip it on the barbed end, and turn up, and tie off to something, to keep it upright. Turn on fuel, and the level of the fuel in the tubing, is the level in the carb. bowl. Of course, this won't help much, until you get the fuel flow stopped at a certain point. That's just for the final tweaking. Fuel level should be about 1/4" below the top of the fuel bowl.
 
   / New member #9  
Similar to the previous comment.... Years ago, I forgot to run the carb dry before the winter on my 1953 JD 40. Apparently, there must have been some water in the carb and it froze during the winter. The float was made of metal and was crushed a little by the ice. That caused a crack to form between the two soldered halves of the float and the float filled with gas so it could not close because it no longer floated. I discovered this when I noticed I was using a lot of gas and then saw it running onto the ground. When tearing down the carb, I found the cracked float, drained and dried it out making sure there were no more fumes, and re-soldered it. It has been fine ever since.
 
   / New member
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Did you check to see if maybe the float has a pinhole in it, and has gas inside..?? If not that, if the little keeper spring, if it is still there where the pin that holds the float in place, can get in a position, when slipping the bowl back on, that will bind, and keep the float from completely rising. Just simply holding the float up, with fuel on, will let you know if the needle valve is completely shutting off the fuel flow. If holding the float up shuts the fuel off, then it's just a matter of adjustment, or, finding out what's binding the float, not letting it rise.

You can actually make a tool to "see" how much fuel is in the bowl, if you get it closer to the level it should be. The drain plug in the lower portion of the fuel bowl should be 1/8" npt. Go to a hardware and find a 1/8" npt barbed fitting, and screw in there. Also get about 12" to 18" of clear vinyl tubing. Slip it on the barbed end, and turn up, and tie off to something, to keep it upright. Turn on fuel, and the level of the fuel in the tubing, is the level in the carb. bowl. Of course, this won't help much, until you get the fuel flow stopped at a certain point. That's just for the final tweaking. Fuel level should be about 1/4" below the top of the fuel bowl.

I made the tool as suggested and that was not the problem. Got a carb kit and installed it. I put it all together and ran the tractor. No fuel leaks but would not run without the choke on and lots of smoke and oil. I pulled the head yesterday and one of the valves on no 4 was shiny behind the spring so I think the guide is shot. I am going to pull the head of of the 52 and see if it is good enough to use. I will keep you updated. Any ideas?
 
 
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