CK2610 HST Sluggish/dying when cold

[pdxkurt]

Hey guys, I'm a new owner of a CK2610 HST and am getting used to its personality. The two things that I've noticed about it that "bother" me are

1) When I first start the tractor for the day and raise the RPMs to my normal operating levels of around 2k and engage the HST moving forward (slightly uphill) the tractor wants to die. If I release the pedal and ease into it again it will be a bit better, and then it will soon thereafter "warm up" and not behave in this way any longer. I have a FEL and either a backhoe or bush hog attached at all times. Is this a normal thing you guys experience?

2) I've seen this one mentioned and I'm not sure if I'm having a real problem or not, but I will notice that my HST pedals are slow to return to center, especially if I'm running with the pedal fully depressed, when I let off it will continue forward for a bit and slowly return to center and stop. I've seen others mention this and say the dealer replaced their HST. I called my dealer to ask about this and he said it was normal due to the amount of hydraulic fluid flowing through the system. Is this normal to an extent and other owners are experiencing a more serious behavior, or is this a legit concern I have?

Thanks!

 

[cphilip]

What Range are you starting out in?

How cold is cold there?

 

[pdxkurt]

I'm in medium range. Lately it has been between 32 to 50 when starting out.

 

[Billrog]

It's going to take a while for the oil to warm up closer to freezing the longer it takes.

 

[tiogajoe]

I have no problems with my pedals returning or any power lose. Even in temps down to 10 degrees. I do let things warm up and often engage the pto to help get things moving. Have you checked your hydro fluid level? I changed both filters and hydro fluid at the 50 hour service. I used Chevron 1000 THF. Noticed an improvement in in lower temps. I understand this chevron fluid has been around a long time and seems to be very popular in my local. We get some pretty cold winters here. So far so good. BTW I'm in Med. range when starting out.

 

[xcgreene]

It would be interesting to know what oil they used at the dealer you purchased the tractor from. I've run into a dealer that was using an oil not even on the kioti list (see below), but because it was cheap they went for it.



* So it may be a possibility that the oil in your transmission is not correct for your application.
* Do you have any remotes that may be accidentally engaged? I know the DKse series tractor remotes can be easily bumped on, and deadheading without the operator knowing, causing sluggishness.

 

[kthompson]

It would be interesting to know what oil they used at the dealer you purchased the tractor from. I've run into a dealer that was using an oil not even on the kioti list (see below), but because it was cheap they went for it.

View attachment 544838

* So it may be a possibility that the oil in your transmission is not correct for your application.
* Do you have any remotes that may be accidentally engaged? I know the DKse series tractor remotes can be easily bumped on, and deadheading without the operator knowing, causing sluggishness.

That is scary. Would me make me wonder what else they choose to ignore.

 

[tiogajoe]

It almost sounds like the system might be starved? blocked filter(s)? Shouldn't be having issues at the temps mentioned by the OP at 32-50 degrees. Used my Tractor several times this week with only a several minute warm up in temps in the mid 20's?

 

[xcgreene]

That is scary. Would me make me wonder what else they choose to ignore.

That dealer is no longer in business, for this reason and others. But I thought I should mention it. I personally use Traveller Premium Universal Trans/Hydraulic Fluid, made by Warren. Its not on the list, but most Oils rated for transmissions, final drives, wet brakes and clutches, and hydraulics that are supplied from a common fluid reservoir will work just fine, so long as they meet regs and specs for your tractor.

also, X2 on checking oil level and filter

 

[cphilip]

Yea... thats not what I would call extremely cold operating temperatures. And I have no such issues at those temperatures and at that range setting. So something is amiss.

 

[Amvcane]

Pdxkurt, I have a feeling that you are treating the Hst peddle like a gas peddle in a car, which it is not. Many analogies can be used, though for ease of understanding I will say it operates like a 4 speed manual transmission in a car. From a standing start depressing the Hst 1/4 of its throw is like starting in 1st gear. Depress it fully and its like starting in 4th gear. If you are driving along with the Hst depressed 3/4s (3rd gear) and encounter a hill, the engine will bog down and the tractor will lose speed. Further stepping on the Hst peddle would be like shifting into 4th gear and would bog it down even more. Lifting off the peddle to maybe 1/2 of its throw would be like downshifting to 2nd gear giving you more torque to get up the hill.
Your second question. Yes it is normal for the Hst peddle to slowly return to neutral. There is a dampener that will make this happen. Without it it would be like shifting from 4th gear to 1st gear. Possibly bucking you out of the seat and destroying some driveline components. The dampener is under the platform near the peddle. Keep this well lubed, especially where the rod enters the transmission case.
I see you are a new member so welcome to the Bynet.
Hope this helps you if not others.

 

[cowbridge]

I don't have either of the issues you are describing. But I'm only 30 hours in

 

[Sheldon Hamblin]

What Amvcane says makes a lot of sense. I started with a Case VAC. 4 speed. Whether I was plowing ground or snow, I would set the the hand throttle and forget it. If it bogged down, the governor would take over and bring up the rpm. When I purchased a new John Deere 850 with a loader, power steering and 2 speed transfer case, it seemed light years ahead of the VAC. Then 27 years later I bought a new Kioti 2610. It does more work than the 850 probably because it's heavier. But the HST did take some getting used to. As has been said on this site before, HST can be counter intuitive until you get used to it. This 2610, is again light years ahead of the 850, I just hope it lasts as long.

 

[chuckles148]

I have the same issue with my CK2610. After the tractor is running for 5-10 min things get better. I then move the buckets up and down a few times to get all the fluid moving. It Generally only happens when it is below -10C.

 

[Kwehme09]

I have a 2610 and have the same problem as the OP. It is VERY sluggish in the cold, and the HST pedal very slow, and sometimes even unwilling to return. It gets better after a very long warmup but is never the same as when it's warmer out. Is it out of the ordinary to keep a block heater on the hydraulic oil reservoir? I am running the standard Kioti oil, is there something better in the cold I can use?

200 hours on the machine. I had the same issues last winter. Changed filters and oil at 50 hours.

 

[Robin Veerman]

I am running the standard Kioti oil, is there something better in the cold I can use?

I have a 2014 CK30HST that I use for all kinds of farm duties all year round. From bush hogging to snow blowing etc. The tractor is always shedded about 300 yards from my house with no hydro to it. When starting in the cold, to blow snow, my hydraulics were always slow to respond initially too. Because the shed is not close to the house I would have to stand around for 10 minutes waiting for the tractor to warm up before working the tractor. I have AMSOIL in the engine and I checked their website and they have a synthetic Tractor/hydraulic fluid that doesn't need to be changed out for improved hot/cold season performance. Since installing AMSOIL in the HST a few years and 300 hours ago, my procedure is to start the tractor, wait a couple of minutes for the engine to settle down and then gently begin to blow snow at about 1800 rpm. Once the engine temp comes up to normal I increase the rpms to 2400 or so and dig right in... All that to say the the FEL, 3pt hitch and HST work in the cold almost as good as if it was summer weather (90%), right at start up. Once the engine temp is up to normal all the hydraulic functions work quickly and smoothly. The AMSOIL fluid is pricey but worth it to me, especially since it can be used year round(also saving on fluid change costs), which is important to me here in Ontario Canada. Here's a link. If you can't find it locally they will ship it to you. Dutchy
AMSOIL Synthetic Tractor Hydraulic/Transmission Oil SAE 5W-3�

 

[justman777]

At the temps you guys are seeing, have you considered a block heater?

 

[Robin Veerman]

At the temps you guys are seeing, have you considered a block heater?

A block heater only works at the barn. It's of no value when the tractor is parked in the woods for 4 or 5 hours while I'm cutting wood on a -20C day. I don't leave my tractor idling all day.... Dutchy

 

[justman777]

A block heater only works at the barn. It's of no value when the tractor is parked in the woods for 4 or 5 hours while I'm cutting wood on a -20C day. I don't leave my tractor idling all day.... Dutchy

That's true. Guess you could start it up occasionally to keep it warmed up, up do like the big rigs do and block off the radiator or something. :confused3:

 

[Robin Veerman]

You are confused. Maybe you didn't catch that I solved my issue by changing the HST oil to AMSOIL. I was just suggesting to the OP that he could do the same and find a better/suitable oil too. Also, the rad temp has nothing to do with the HST fluid temp. Only the pump pushing it around is what heats up the HST oil. Dutchy