1250 Fuel Gauge Issue

[carolinarider]

I have a Massey Ferguson 1250 and the fuel gauge no longer works. When I start the tractor it bounces up and then back down below empty but not on the peg. I have seen some information about the fuel sensor losing its ground. I have a "book" that I purchased to help resolve the issue but it has no informant at all on the location of this grounding lead. I would appreciate any help in locating the wire and harness and/or the grounding lead.

 

[carolinarider]

I guess no one has a good answer. I have searched the net with zero results.

 

[artcarneyagr]

I have a 1250 but there's no peg that I recall seeing.

About the book you mention, which one is it? I need to get one of those to try and track down an issue with my temp gauge - sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't.

 

[artcarneyagr]

Do you know if there's a float? Maybe it's stuck at the bottom?

 

[dbail]

that just happened to me to. I think the wire is under the tank shield. i have some logs to pull out tomorrow and saw. after that I will take the shield off and see

 

[carolinarider]

that just happened to me to. I think the wire is under the tank shield. i have some logs to pull out tomorrow and saw. after that I will take the shield off and see

Wondering if you ever got a chance to take off the shield?

 

[lpakiz]

Wondering if you ever got a chance to take off the shield?

A quick way to check this is to hook a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to the metal of the tank, if it is metal. If tank is not metal, find the 吐uel gauge sender that is located on the tank. (Typically this is a round metal disc, 2-3 in diameter, circular bolt pattern, mounted on the tank. It will have one or two wires on it.) Touch the other end of the jumper cable or wire to the metal base of the sender. NOT to either of the wires on the sender. Sometimes easier to hook your jumper cable to a longer screwdriver and use that the complete the grounding connection.
If the gauge responds correctly, you致e found the problem.

 

[carolinarider]

A quick way to check this is to hook a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to the metal of the tank, if it is metal. If tank is not metal, find the 吐uel gauge sender that is located on the tank. (Typically this is a round metal disc, 2-3 in diameter, circular bolt pattern, mounted on the tank. It will have one or two wires on it.) Touch the other end of the jumper cable or wire to the metal base of the sender. NOT to either of the wires on the sender. Sometimes easier to hook your jumper cable to a longer screwdriver and use that the complete the grounding connection.
If the gauge responds correctly, you致e found the problem.

Tired this today and did not have success. Will try again tomorrow. Hardest part is finding exposed metal that is really the tank.

Will keep you updated as to what I find. Thanks for the information.

 

[def38]

Tired this today and did not have success. Will try again tomorrow. Hardest part is finding exposed metal that is really the tank.

Will keep you updated as to what I find. Thanks for the information.

Not familiar with your particular model, however on my BMW motorcycle fuel level sender, there is a potentiometer and wiper on the float. If there is poor contact anywhere in this circuit, fuel gauge information is suspect. You may have to remove the sender and inspect it. First, I would use an VOM and determine if the circuit is intact. I had to replace the gauge on my M-F 231S. Now it operates like original.

 

[carolinarider]

I seemed to have missed the responses to my question. I would not recommend the book I have. I have ordered a "Parts Manual" when it comes it I will let you know how it looks.

Here is what I believe, the issue is as some have suggested a grounding issue. The fuel tank appears to be metal and when I get the thing back together after fixing the water pump will try the ground wire trick. The tank is under a shield and I read somewhere else that lost of ground will cause an issue like this.

 

[carolinarider]

Picture of Manual - You have to be careful in picking a manual. For instance the water pump pictured in this manual is not the same as the one on my tractor. I think that had two different engines during the 1998 model year and the name plate data is not helpful.

 

[def38]

Upon receiving my used M-F 231S (bought it sight unseen from a seller in Houston, TX), I immediately made friends with the parts fellow at the local Agco shop here in Birmingham, AL.

He advised the correct documents for my model. He also identified some of the hidden details regarding my model which was made in Turkey by a facility that has since ceased business. I found some of the electrics are no longer in production (internal alternator parts for example). My alternator had been neglected and was full of dirt and the slip rings were abraded away and almost non-existent. The alternator is a Lucas branded unit made by the Italians with some German parts. So, I had to identify an alternator in current production that had the correct mounting configuration so all the shrouds fit and...you get the idea.

I learned that making friends with the local parts guy at Agco can save lots of time and money. My Perkins engine is almost bullet-proof and all parts are still available. Transmission, clutch, brakes and other major items are still well supported by either OEM or aftermarket.

I believe your 1250 was manufactured by Iseki? Iseki is still a viable manufacturer so I would suppose you'll be OK regarding spares required in the future.

Good luck with your repairs.

 

[def38]

Picture of Manual - You have to be careful in picking a manual. For instance the water pump pictured in this manual is not the same as the one on my tractor. I think that had two different engines during the 1998 model year and the name plate data is not helpful.

View attachment 596383

My manual has a Massey Ferguson part number and seems to be official. If I run into a question, I call my parts guy and he sends me a .PDF of the info I need. My next major maintenance item will be valve lash adjustment on the engine. That should be fun. I doubt the engine valve lash is out of spec (it starts at the second engine revolution hot or cold and pulls smoothly at all RPMs) but, I need to be sure.

 

[carolinarider]

Yes I believe my book is a knock off. I will see what I get from Jensales in a few days. I did find a place I could look at parts and get parts numbers from AGCO.

http://www.agcopartsbooks.com/PartsBooksN/Login.aspx?ReturnUrl=/PartsBooksN/Viewer/Default.aspx?

While I use the information my browser informs me the website is not secure so, I used it to get a list of potential parts I will take to the dealer today or tomorrow.

 

[Hurban96]

My 1250 does the exact same thing. I believe mine has something to do with the gauge cluster. When my gauge acts crazy i can beat on the dash and it will go back to working correctly.

 

[carolinarider]

Now that i have my water pump issue fixed, I will undertake the next task of fixing the fuel gauge. My first task will be to find out where it is located on the tank and then check connections, including the "grounding" test. I believe that is part of the issue.

The event happened after I washed the tractor and I think water may have entered some connectors and the resulting corrosion causes the issue. But.....

I finally found a parts dealer (he is 60 miles away) that seems to know what he is doing and I will be ordering all my parts though him in the future. Its a long drive (depending on what you call long) but all the parts can usually fit in my bike so its an excuse for a short road trip.

 

[def38]

That sounds like a reason to break out the two wheeler.:applause: