Leaking down the left rear tire

[bcantell]

Don't know if this is the right forum for this, but, I've developed a fluid leak on my 873 coming down the inside of the left rear tire.

Any advice or suggestions on what I'm in for?

Thanks.

 

[mcfarmall]

Get it fixed ASAP or you'll be buying a new rim and a tube. My tire place charges $45 to mount/dismount AG tires, plus a charge to pump out the old fluid, plus a charge to pump in the new fluid, plus $X.XX per gallon of fluid.

I procrastinated on fixing a drip on the old C and it cost roughly $800 for new rear rims, 2 new tubes, mount/dismount, fluid and related charges.

Pay a little now or a boat ton later.

 

[Thomas]

Agree get it fix,for the last thing you want is to let the tire let go...p.i.t.a and a mess.

 

[bcantell]

Thanks for the response.

I think you might be thinking I'm talking about fluid "IN" the tire. I'm not.

This is oil or hydraulic fluid leaking down the inside OF the tire. I should have made that clearer.

I'm guessing a axle seal or something like that.

It's cold out :ashamed: and I can't get to the tire to completely check it out yet as the machine is parked next to a wall.

 

[fried1765]

Get it fixed ASAP or you'll be buying a new rim and a tube. My tire place charges $45 to mount/dismount AG tires, plus a charge to pump out the old fluid, plus a charge to pump in the new fluid, plus $X.XX per gallon of fluid.

I procrastinated on fixing a drip on the old C and it cost roughly $800 for new rear rims, 2 new tubes, mount/dismount, fluid and related charges.

Pay a little now or a boat ton later.

Your "fluid" must have been CaCl.
Bad stuff! Don't use it!
EXTREMELY corrosive!

Should use "beet juice" (expensive), or windshield washer fluid (inexpensive), to avoid corrosion.

 

[Thomas]

[QUOTE=bcantell

I think you might be thinking I'm talking about fluid "IN" the tire. I'm not.

This is oil or hydraulic fluid leaking down the inside OF the tire. I should have made that clearer.
..............................
Even more so to get repair,all that rear weight plus movement w/no fluid could cost BIG $$$'s in damage.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I've done this repair. It's not hard. You need to pull the axle out. I don't have time to go into the details now. I'll try to remember to get back to you tonite.

I also have a PDF of the service manual if your interested. PM me

 

[bcantell]

I've done this repair. It's not hard. You need to pull the axle out. I don't have time to go into the details now. I'll try to remember to get back to you tonite.

I also have a PDF of the service manual if your interested. PM me

Awesome! PM sent. Thanks.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I just realized the PDF is for a 763. Of course that's after I sent it to you. Hopefully they are similar enough that the manual helps.

 

[bcantell]

Ernie;

Ha, it's good to see others do stuff like that also.

I'm watching my email.

Thanks

 

[pmsmechanic]

Ernie;

Ha, it's good to see others do stuff like that also.

I'm watching my email.

Thanks

I just sent it! I've got so much going on I can't keep track of it all.

 

[bcantell]

Ernie, thanks, got it.

 

[pmsmechanic]

For those reading this thread and wondering how to get the axles out you need to drain the oil in the chain box. Take the top cover off of the chain box. It's by your feet. Inside you'll see chains and sprockets. Loosen but do not remove the nut of the axle that you want to remove and then push the axle out with a small portable hydraulic cylinder between the two nuts.

Northern tool or Princess Auto has portable presses for sale. You also need to buy the real short cylinder. 1 5/8" stroke? roughly.

Once the axle is out, the hub needs to be pressed off so you can replace the bearing and the seal. Pressing the hub off is a job as it's a tapered fit. We used a torch and a large pulley puller.

If you replace with quality bearings then if you place all of the shims as you removed them the bearing clearances should be within specs.

 

[bcantell]

pmsmechanic, great info. The chain box for the rear axle, the one I need to work on, is under the cab. Lifting the cab is necessary.

I spoke with my local Bobcat shop and it was suggested that I do both sides.

Any suggestions on bearing sources?

I'm guessing the seals are proprietary from Bobcat?

 

[pmsmechanic]

pmsmechanic, great info. The chain box for the rear axle, the one I need to work on, is under the cab. Lifting the cab is necessary.

I spoke with my local Bobcat shop and it was suggested that I do both sides.

Any suggestions on bearing sources?

I'm guessing the seals are proprietary from Bobcat?

I did this job for my neighbour. He got the seal from Bobcat but I don't remember where the bearings came from.

I found this awesome site for parts. Wow so easy to navigate. Bobcat Genuine Parts Catalog – Official Bobcat Company site. There are three different seals that I could find. You need your serial number.

Looking at the parts diagram I would say you don't need to remove the hub.

Once you have the bearings out then there should be a number on the bearing and the cone. Use that number to google for parts if you have time to order them. If you want to get it back together quick then I would just go to a local bearing supply store. Here I can save about 50% on a bearing just by making a few phone calls. I would buy an SKF or similar brand name bearing. My local store asks me if I want a cheap bearing or a good brand name one. I make my decision based on the application.

 

[bcantell]

Pmsmechanic, again, great info. Thanks for the help!!