Hydraulic ssqa augers?

[Fallon]

Nobody in Colorado uses post pounders. Our ground is to hard of clay & you just pound posts into splinters rather than into the ground. Or so I hear.

I tamped all my posts. When I pulled the old posts I couldn't tell if they were tamped or cemented in until after they were out. Both pulled as easily as the other. And by "I tamped" I mean I conned some friends & neighbors into helping. One liked it better than the gym & bartered tractor work for manual labor with others.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Here is the pengo hydraulic auger bit I was looking at that also comes with the bolt on rock head. Land pride also has this option but the price I was given would have been another 550 for the rock head for the 15" auger. Can't find detailed specs on the land pride auger but I do know weight is almost the same and they both use bolt on heads with 5/16 flitting. I like the idea of a two in one auger though.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Fallon, which style auger do you have, is it the fabricated with bolt on teeth or the cast head with drive in teeth?

 

[Fallon]

Fallon, which style auger do you have, is it the fabricated with bolt on teeth or the cast head with drive in teeth?

My 2" round drive 9" Pengo had sockets for it's replaceable teeth. They just jamed in & stayed in. It came with thick carbide frost teeth. They sucked for our clay so I replaced them with thinner dirt teeth.

My new 2" hex drive 12" McMillan auger has some bolt on teeth About the same tooth beef on my Pengo as on the McMillan. Both have MUCH more beef & options than the cheap farm augers. My McMillan was wearing on the teeth pretty quick so I have replacement hardfacing on the replacement teeth I haven't put in yet. Some Sandy abrasive soil mixed with clay around here in places wears all teeth pretty hard. Nice I can get hard faced or carbide teeth for the Pengo or McMillan.

 

[Fallon]

And the teeth on my McMillan head look the same as the bolt on teeth on that Aggressor photo if I recall.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Well dealer called today and said the land pride sa20 would not be available until mid February, So I ended up buying the Danuser EP6 with 9" auger. I think it's a better choice anyway price wise. I'm still undecided on the large bit size or type.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Fallon, how do you like the offset hitch, dealer didn't have any in stock but was going to order me one if I wanted it instead of the center mount I bought. My plan all a long was to add another set of ears to one side if I ended up buying a center mount. The land pride I was looking at has both mounts on the frame so it can be used either way. The thing I was worried about with the offset mount only was if drilling a larger 15" hole if it would ever grab and put a lot of twist force or even uneven pressure when applying some down force on one side of the loader or not , with both mounts I could use the center mount for more extreme ground. May be over thinking it , but it's a simple addition for me to do, guess we will find out.

 

[Fallon]

The only way you can see the auger or where it's going on a tractor is with an offset mount. Otherwise it's all hiden behind the engine. It's not perfect being so far forward & possibly behind the front tire. But it beats killing your neck with a PTO auger.

Center mount SSQA is probably fine for a skid steer, but not really useful for a tractor.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Going to start working on the offset mount tomorrow , see how it goes.

 

[DieselBound]

A camera can go a long ways toward mitigating the vision issue. If one uses a magnetic base for the camera mount (and has ample wire) one can move it all over the place for the best view.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Seems that every offset mount I've looked at is set off to the right side, I'm looking at putting mine on the left instead for just a bit more visibility than I have on the right.

 

[mopardude318]

what I think would be really cool is a hydraulic adjustable offset that would aid in getting the bit in the exact location. No constant forward or backward turning trying to line things up...of course, to power such hydraulic offset would probably require a hose ran from a rear remote...

but trying to design a carrier is beyond my skill for that. I'd probably start with a fork attachment that had hydraulic adjustable tines...

 

[Fallon]

Seems that every offset mount I've looked at is set off to the right side, I'm looking at putting mine on the left instead for just a bit more visibility than I have on the right.

Mine & others I've seen have been in the right side when observed from the operators seat. It generally puts you closer to the controls that way. But I don't expect there would be any significant issues on the left side, especially if there was better visibility on the left for some reason.

 

[countrybumpkin]

The hydraulic side shift idea is really great, if I were going to start from scratch or was doing commercial work with my tractor I'd do something like that. I used the tractor today for some dirt and backhoe work but looked over the visibility issue and I have fair amount more visibility on the left side over the right, so I'm going to go that route. The control issue was also something I had thought about but today I noticed For me the controls will still be comfortable to use while digging.

 

[KenB2920]

Any photos here of what guys are working with?

 

[Fallon]

Any photos here of what guys are working with?

Here is my new SSQA hydraulic unit. Also my old 3pt unit I rebuilt to fit on a 3pt Quick Hitch & to mount a heavy chunk of ballast on.

 

[KenB2920]

Here is my new SSQA hydraulic unit. Also my old 3pt unit I rebuilt to fit on a 3pt Quick Hitch & to mount a heavy chunk of ballast on.

View attachment 534027View attachment 534028View attachment 534029

Wow! What an awesome unit! I do can’t justify one but but that would be so awesome to have.

 

[mopardude318]

here's mine:

im building a little corral fence over the weekend.

 

[goeduck]

Here is my new SSQA hydraulic unit. Also my old 3pt unit I rebuilt to fit on a 3pt Quick Hitch & to mount a heavy chunk of ballast on.

That is what I have, except a size or so down. How fast can you spin that model? I get about 1rev/sec

 

[Fallon]

That is what I have, except a size or so down. How fast can you spin that model? I get about 1rev/sec

Slow... It spins in the same ballpark as my PTO PHD did at an idle. I set my auto throttle button to 1900rpm or so. I generally hit that button along with the 3rd function button.

Mine is the small Danhuser model. Something 6 maybe? Rated for up to 15gpm if I recall. It's underpowered, but thats more a function of the max hydraulic pressure & flow of my (or any other CUT) hydraulics than the PHD itself. I'd classify it as adequate, barely. I'd buy it all over again though.

The only way to do better on a CUT is to make a PTO powered hydraulic power pack. That would be around $2k or more. And then the small PHD would probably need a bigger motor to match the bigger pump & flow. Pretty sure all the PHDs in a given line are the same, just with different sized motors on them. And of course the big round vs 2" hex output shaft options.