Grading Tips for grading driveway?
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Soundguy
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If you have tilt and angle on your blade, make the leading edge forward, and set its side to side angle accordingly if there is a crown.. or you are making a crown.
Soundguy
Soundguy
ByronBob
Veteran Member
Do you want to add gravel to it or just smooth out the dirt? I'd recommend a drag harrow to loosen the soil up then maybe the blade. You need to work up the driveway some or else bring soil in and then use the blade to even the soil out
Thanks for the replies. My blade only goes side to side / up and down. On my ride into work today I saw someone grading a road and I could see the angle you’re talking about… but mine won’t do that. I don’t plan on adding gravel… I was thinking about having a load or two of dirt added, I just want to smooth it out.
Thanks again,
KC
Thanks again,
KC
beenthere
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Smoothing it out will be real tough without something (blade or drag or beam) that has an angle to it. That is about the only way to get the 'washboard' effect out of a driveway. IMO. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
rambler
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Smoothing it out will be real tough without something (blade or drag or beam) that has an angle to it. That is about the only way to get the 'washboard' effect out of a driveway. IMO. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif )</font>
Yup, absolutely.
--->Paul
Yup, absolutely.
--->Paul
rameye
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KC,
I'm in the same predicament as you except my driveway is way steep. I use a rear blade (heavy duty model) and still get washboarding. I set my crown angle by adjusting the one side of the 3 point up and down.
Anyway one of the locals with much more experience than myself suggested I use a york rake with wheels. He said backblading is an art and takes patience....I think he's right. The first time I used it my driveway looked like a crash site!
I'm gonna try the york in a couple of weeks and will report back.
Good Luck!
I'm in the same predicament as you except my driveway is way steep. I use a rear blade (heavy duty model) and still get washboarding. I set my crown angle by adjusting the one side of the 3 point up and down.
Anyway one of the locals with much more experience than myself suggested I use a york rake with wheels. He said backblading is an art and takes patience....I think he's right. The first time I used it my driveway looked like a crash site!
I'm gonna try the york in a couple of weeks and will report back.
Good Luck!
aloha
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( So is this not the right impliment to grade my driveway? If not what exactly do I need? )</font>
Your best results on a dirt driveway likely will come with a box scraper, a.k.a. box blade. The scarifiers will loosen the hard surface, the blade will scrape excess material from the high spots, and the box will carry it and leave it in the low spots.
Your best results on a dirt driveway likely will come with a box scraper, a.k.a. box blade. The scarifiers will loosen the hard surface, the blade will scrape excess material from the high spots, and the box will carry it and leave it in the low spots.
I'd appreciate expanding these tips to include gravel drives, as I am about to have to redo my 1600' drive as my home is nearing completion and after the concrete, lumber and brick packages were delivered, it is a mess.
I hired someone with a dozer to cut it in and had a base of #2 and #3 limestone gravel put in before construction began. Now I need to grade it again as it is humped up in the middle something awful, and put a layer of dense grade limestone (with or without the dust?) on top.
Anyone know the best way to grade and pack this using a CUT, or should it be hired out again (ouch!)?
I hired someone with a dozer to cut it in and had a base of #2 and #3 limestone gravel put in before construction began. Now I need to grade it again as it is humped up in the middle something awful, and put a layer of dense grade limestone (with or without the dust?) on top.
Anyone know the best way to grade and pack this using a CUT, or should it be hired out again (ouch!)?
CTyler
Veteran Member
When build out house the semi's, cement trucks, etc.. did a great job of really packing the limestone. However I had to grade it regularlyMy drive is ~600' and on a hill. Started with a base of 3", that must have been 3" average not minus. Then topped it with 1 1/2" and used the box and rear blade to grade it out.
If you need to move stuff around the box works good. If your just smoothing out washboards then the rear blade at an angle works good.
One thing I learned the hard way was not to get very agressive with the rear blade to smooth washboards. Otherwise you start pulling up the larger base. It packs back down but you end up with mini boulders scattered around. Then you get to take the landscape rake and pull it off to the side. The landscape rakes actually works a lot better than I figured it would for light grading.
Turning the rear blade around while driving forward makes it less agressive and it can't dig in. Works good for smoothing/spreading.
You want the fines in your rock, thats what binds everything together and makes it pack.
If you need to move stuff around the box works good. If your just smoothing out washboards then the rear blade at an angle works good.
One thing I learned the hard way was not to get very agressive with the rear blade to smooth washboards. Otherwise you start pulling up the larger base. It packs back down but you end up with mini boulders scattered around. Then you get to take the landscape rake and pull it off to the side. The landscape rakes actually works a lot better than I figured it would for light grading.
Turning the rear blade around while driving forward makes it less agressive and it can't dig in. Works good for smoothing/spreading.
You want the fines in your rock, thats what binds everything together and makes it pack.
Soundguy
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Yes.. that blade will do it. I thought your was only up down.. side to side..
The one linked to is power angle and all.:
Easy-to-reach hydraulic joystick lever controls blade raise/lower/float and power angle positions
Compact and rigid subframe design
Manual chute rotator, hydraulic rotator optional, requires 4-position valve
This would be a fine grading blade.. though a 200$ one on the 3pt rear of the tractor will work fine to grade a road as well..
Soundguy
The one linked to is power angle and all.:
Easy-to-reach hydraulic joystick lever controls blade raise/lower/float and power angle positions
Compact and rigid subframe design
Manual chute rotator, hydraulic rotator optional, requires 4-position valve
This would be a fine grading blade.. though a 200$ one on the 3pt rear of the tractor will work fine to grade a road as well..
Soundguy
Soundguy
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Also.. remember.. dusts and fines will compact.. large gravels.. like 57 stone will only consolodate.
Soundguy
Soundguy
ByronBob
Veteran Member
That should work well but to smooth out the whole thing you'll need a york rake to do it better. I used a drag harrow to get my gravel driveway back to normal after my house was done. However as was mentioned too much bite brings the big rock up to the surface and the york rake won't. Thats the better option. If you use a drag harrow then leave the smooth side down for less bite. That will smooth the dirt also. Either way it appears you need another implement. But thats not a bad thing /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
beenthere
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That blade looks great for grading the drive. It angles (at first it appeared you didn't have an angling front blade) and can cut into the surface to remove the ruts. As well, it can be used to back drag and distribute the 'ridge' across the drive. Remember to pack it down after smoothing. That will keep the top firm and resist the 'marbles' from rolling off to the side.
When (if) you get to gravel, remember mixing the fines in with the gravel and then packing (car driven over several times works) before drying out is the best way. I would avoid just scratching the surface of a drive. Loose material in ruts and washboard doesn't stay put, and the surface quickly loses its 'good looks' and goes back to ruts and washboard.
I would just use the blade you have. Always angle it and move material back and forth until it is smooth. That may take some practice, but it will be fun seat time. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
When (if) you get to gravel, remember mixing the fines in with the gravel and then packing (car driven over several times works) before drying out is the best way. I would avoid just scratching the surface of a drive. Loose material in ruts and washboard doesn't stay put, and the surface quickly loses its 'good looks' and goes back to ruts and washboard.
I would just use the blade you have. Always angle it and move material back and forth until it is smooth. That may take some practice, but it will be fun seat time. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Hi,
I have a graded driveway that is large stones topped by #20 mixed limestone and stones. It does wash during heavy rain and also used to washboard when I would drag grade it with my Boomer.
The solution I found was to take two large logs, cut a slit in them and put one on each end of my rear blade. They weigh quite a bit but do not interfere with the movement of the blade as I use it to either pull or push things and scarf them to either side.
When I have graded to my satisfaction by pulling the blade up and down, then I put the blade in the center position and BACK up and down the drive smoothing my work. It is an easy way to get that smooth driveway that you can not get with a rear blade pulling in a stone driveway. The logs not only keep the blade from bouncing around while grading, but also helps to keep it on the ground while you smooth the driveway.
I have a graded driveway that is large stones topped by #20 mixed limestone and stones. It does wash during heavy rain and also used to washboard when I would drag grade it with my Boomer.
The solution I found was to take two large logs, cut a slit in them and put one on each end of my rear blade. They weigh quite a bit but do not interfere with the movement of the blade as I use it to either pull or push things and scarf them to either side.
When I have graded to my satisfaction by pulling the blade up and down, then I put the blade in the center position and BACK up and down the drive smoothing my work. It is an easy way to get that smooth driveway that you can not get with a rear blade pulling in a stone driveway. The logs not only keep the blade from bouncing around while grading, but also helps to keep it on the ground while you smooth the driveway.
djradz
Veteran Member
Have to agree. A landscape rake/York rake is your best bet unless you have major reconstruction to do. Big ruts and holes will require something more severe like a back blade or box, but once it's relatively flat, or crowned, the rake it the best tool to finish the job as well as maintain it for years to come.
JRP
Platinum Member
On TBN there is a post for a "Driveway fixer". Great invention.
I built one that can also be picked up with my Speeco quick hitch. This thing is 10' wide and can be used like a blade when lifted with the 3pt, or as a drag when pulled with a chain. With the Speeco, I can drag it, the back up and lift it with the Speeco. I believe dragging my driveway fixer is better than a landscape rake.
My drive has recycled concrete topping. The day before the trucks came I made 4" screed shoes for the ends. These are shown on this photo. I usually do not have the shoes installed. I'll post how it works on "Build it yourself".
I built one that can also be picked up with my Speeco quick hitch. This thing is 10' wide and can be used like a blade when lifted with the 3pt, or as a drag when pulled with a chain. With the Speeco, I can drag it, the back up and lift it with the Speeco. I believe dragging my driveway fixer is better than a landscape rake.
My drive has recycled concrete topping. The day before the trucks came I made 4" screed shoes for the ends. These are shown on this photo. I usually do not have the shoes installed. I'll post how it works on "Build it yourself".
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F100Panel
Silver Member
I'm NO expert... But I have had a 650 foot gravel driveway on grade for 17 years.... I have a box blade, FEL, rear Woods angle/tilt blade and....A Yorke rake with WHEEL kit. All I ever use is the Yorke rake with the wheel kit. Wheel kit can be adjusted to start you crown. One other thing I learned from a retired heavy equiptment operator- No ,matter what yer runnin, a dozer or a compact tractor for grading you have to have material in front of the blade/some fill is always required wether you scrape it off the hi spots or have a load brought in but you alweays need something loose in front of the blade/rake to grade/level with.... /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
PineRidge
Super Member
My drive is gravel and about 750 foot long it also sees lots of truck traffic. I get whoop-de-doos quite regularly as a result of all the traffic. I start with the box blade to reshape the crown and smooth. I follow that up with the landscape rake reversed to dress the drive up. When I'm finished it has a nice crown and is bump free. I have also found that it's best to wait until after a rain, as it really helps to keep the dust down while you are working the gravel.
