Any benefit in changing hyd fluid?

[jdom84]

If I were one who rarely changes fluids I would have an oil analysis program going on.

This is exactly right and what industry/commercial does, and what we do at the mine, otherwise you would go poor changing fluids all the time. But that's industrial settings and things are done much different... I do find it interesting though, when people recommend there way of doing things based on just because they do. How can you trust anything anyways says who doesn't have an investment in your expensive machine? That's why I think its best to just follow the manufactures recommendations, because if something goes wrong... its on them.

It might be rare that this will happen but you should keep in mind that if you do change your fluid more often then recommended and air is introduced to the system and the pump or hydrostat is ran for periods of time with out any fluid, damage can occur. Each time you change your fluid and this happens, you can incur damage and shorten the life of your hydraulic system. I have seen it on this forum where people have changed their fluid and afterwords the machine will not move or hydraulics do not work properly, that's usually because air is in the the system and parts are spinning without proper lubrication... if this happens, turn off your machine immediately and figure out what needs priming.

 

[ovrszd]

This is exactly right and what industry/commercial does, and what we do at the mine, otherwise you would go poor changing fluids all the time. But that's industrial settings and things are done much different... I do find it interesting though, when people recommend there way of doing things based on just because they do. How can you trust anything anyways says who doesn't have an investment in your expensive machine? That's why I think its best to just follow the manufactures recommendations, because if something goes wrong... its on them.

It might be rare that this will happen but you should keep in mind that if you do change your fluid more often then recommended and air is introduced to the system and the pump or hydrostat is ran for periods of time with out any fluid, damage can occur. Each time you change your fluid and this happens, you can incur damage and shorten the life of your hydraulic system. I have seen it on this forum where people have changed their fluid and afterwords the machine will not move or hydraulics do not work properly, that's usually because air is in the the system and parts are spinning without proper lubrication... if this happens, turn off your machine immediately and figure out what needs priming.

I think the title of this thread is very appropriate. The OP asked for factual benefit, not opinions.

 

[tomplum]

I would have to say that I am not real big on pressure washing areas that could not like having water forced into them. I get asked this quite often. With that being said, clean the areas around the filters, drain and fill areas to keep dirt out of the hydro. Scrape / air / water / air dry / wipe. Should you replace your fluid? Do you feel a benefit - maybe quieter or possibly improving the quality above what the OEM oil offer? That's your only real answer. I have no idea how much oil will run out of the filters when they are removed if done before draining oil though. Some here claim that a vacuum cleaner hooked into the fill will lessen the amount of this. I would personally have no other worries.

 

[CMV]

Going to go ahead and change it tomorrow along with everything else. Might be just wasting some time & $, but at least i will learn how it's done and be more prepared next time. Taking it home after work today and doing everything in my driveway vs out on my property that has limited tools and no utilities. At least if I run into problems I am better equipped to deal with them that way.

Local Kubota dealer is pretty close to my work so ran down during lunch yesterday. The Super UDT2 was $101 for a 5-gal pail, so just a hair over $20/gal. Single gal jug was $21 so not much difference there either. Thought that was a fair price vs what I saw online for it. Sucks compared to the yellow bucket 303 my old backhoe took But I don't expect this to leak hyd fluid by the gallon either...

If performance and HST whine are better/worse/exactly the same I will at least know for next time what I should consider using.

Tom - I think it was you - in another thread recommended the Rotella T-6 for engine oil. I wondered why T6 vs T5 or T4? T4 & T5 look closer to what the manual calls for to me, but it has lots of overlap. It doesn't say 5W-40 anywhere though. 15W-40 range seems to match the NC weather best which would be T4. 5W full synthetic > 10W synthetic blend > 15W is reason for T6?

 

[tomplum]

I used the T6 as it is a full synthetic. I could of went the Amsoil way as well, but I knew that T6 was readily available. For the 1st time I bought Amsoil for the vehicles thinking there may be improvement over the Lucas I was using in one of them. Will I continue to use Amsoil? That remains to be seen. I live in reasonably temperate area and don't require the lower winter rating of the T6, but it does no harm. Much like the lighter winter rating of the hydro oil. In changing the whole enchilada, I had 1-2 quarts left over.

 

[RalphVa]

If I could have done the 50 hour service or replacing the hydraulic filter without changing out the fluid, I'd do it. Can't see how the fluid could possibly be bad until way up around 500 hours. Unfortunately, on the first 2 tractors I've owned, you could not change the filters without first draining out the fluid. Too hard to keep it really clean out you have it out.

On this 2025R, I could have possibly gotten away without changing out the fluid because it uses an external spin-on filter. The silly suction screen had nothing on it to require me to change out the fluid.

Ralph

 

[rider7767]

I own an airplane with a $35K engine in it. The factory recommends changing the filter at 50 hours and the oil at 100. I have owned this airplane for over 35 years and have religiously changed oil AND filter every 25 hours and I haven't had a bit of trouble with this engine. It doesn't even leak any oil. Oil and filters are cheap in my mind compared to that $35K replacement cost.
I also owned an automotive repair business for 25 years and I had customers that really cared for their vehicles and others that didn't. You all know where I'm going with that also. The folks that changed oil and filter at 2000 mile intervals (including myself) had vehicles that lasted for ever. Oil and filters are cheap in the grand scheme of these machines; especially with regards to the SCUT's. There just isn't much fluid there to deal with. You gentlemen with the much bigger machines I'll give you that leeway as even having a container to catch that much fluid and dispose of it can be an issue.

Just my thoughts here with my own personal observations. Not trying to change any minds.

You are on point. Very well said.

 

[rider7767]

I think the title of this thread is very appropriate. The OP asked for factual benefit, not opinions.

What if the opinion is based on years of experience, training, deductive reasoning, and critical thinking?

 

[jdom84]

there is always three ways of doing things right? :wink::wink:

 

[LouNY]

Going to go ahead and change it tomorrow along with everything else. Might be just wasting some time & $, but at least i will learn how it's done and be more prepared next time. Taking it home after work today and doing everything in my driveway vs out on my property that has limited tools and no utilities. At least if I run into problems I am better equipped to deal with them that way.

Local Kubota dealer is pretty close to my work so ran down during lunch yesterday. The Super UDT2 was $101 for a 5-gal pail, so just a hair over $20/gal. Single gal jug was $21 so not much difference there either. Thought that was a fair price vs what I saw online for it. Sucks compared to the yellow bucket 303 my old backhoe took But I don't expect this to leak hyd fluid by the gallon either...

If performance and HST whine are better/worse/exactly the same I will at least know for next time what I should consider using.

Tom - I think it was you - in another thread recommended the Rotella T-6 for engine oil. I wondered why T6 vs T5 or T4? T4 & T5 look closer to what the manual calls for to me, but it has lots of overlap. It doesn't say 5W-40 anywhere though. 15W-40 range seems to match the NC weather best which would be T4. 5W full synthetic > 10W synthetic blend > 15W is reason for T6?
View attachment 531115

I believe you made a good choice, enjoy yourself, have fun

 

[CMV]

Got everything done this weekend. The HST filter was kind of a pain since I couldn't really get to it. Took the seat off (4 bolts) and that made barely enough room. Otherwise it was all pretty simple. Changed all 5 filters, oil, and hyd fluid. I wasn't sure what to expect to find on the hyd oil drain plug magnet, but not much there. Powdered metal - no chips, splinters, shavings. Total volume would be about size of a pea.

Was changing the hyd oil worth it? Can't really say since I haven't lifted anything yet. Just driving around, the HST sounds a little quieter, but not a night/day difference. My 'calibrated ear' says about 10-15% reduction in the whine sound in 4wd and wide open low gear. Enough that ya I can tell it's a tiny bit quieter, but not enough that I would shout from the rooftops, "hurry up and change your fluid to quiet your machine down!"

I ended up going with the Rotella T5 for engine oil. It was 15W-40 and matched what the manual has for my climate. I couldn't find T6 in anything other than 5W-40 (but only looked at TSC and WM). Gave it a quick bath - just sprayed with pressure washer to get the grime off. It's all ready to get back to work.

 

[LouNY]

Looks good, nice to get that maintenance done and out of the way.
As far as Rotella T-6 I believe it's only available as a 5W-40 which you
shouldn't need down there, I use it for easier starting in cold weather.

 

[tomplum]

Good deal. When you need to get access back there IE for the filters, lift off the floor mat and remove the floor pan. The seat can stay in place.

 

[CMV]

Good deal. When you need to get access back there IE for the filters, lift off the floor mat and remove the floor pan. The seat can stay in place.

Will try that next time! Is that easier than removing seat or just gives more room to work?

 

[tomplum]

It is simple enough. You just lift off the mat and kind of finagle it over the pedals, then remove the 5? hex head screws for the body. I think other that unhooking the built in tabs that covers it. If you have a good ear, let us know what you think on the whine over time. I think it took some time on our rig. You would think that I would be real in tune with before and after noises seeing as though I twist wrenches for a living, but no. Not if the noise doesn't seem abnormal.