Farwood measuring guide for chainsaws...

[Oldpath05]

As I look through the threads, not seeing much for a firewood measuring cutting attachments for chainsaws, guess everyone has a 16" eyeball, orrrrrr nobody's pumped up yet about bucking up firewood, oh I know everyone likes to cut firewood in July when it's 90° out.

Seems like when I start out cutting 16", after a few cuts I check with tape and I'm getting 14-24, I'd like 16-18. I use to have one years ago similar to this one and liked it, I'm thinking about ordering this handy dandy quick guide, looks like a winner to me.
Amazon.com: Cut-Rite Chainsaw Firewood Measuring Tool-Accessory, Detachable, Flexible, Stick, Cutting, Mounts directly to bar nut.: Patio, Lawn & Garden

 

[JB13502]

I mark, and then cut (or if the wife is around, she'll mark). Helps get the knots where I want them and what best to do at the end. Plus it gives my back a break while I mark a few more logs.

Ended up short on wood a number of years back, and ended up doing wood in 90 degree, humid July weather.... NEVER again!:fiery:

 

[Briar Hill Brittanys]

I mark, and then cut (or if the wife is around, she'll mark). Helps get the knots where I want them and what best to do at the end. Plus it gives my back a break while I mark a few more logs.

Ended up short on wood a number of years back, and ended up doing wood in 90 degree, humid July weather.... NEVER again!:fiery:

This is my method, minus the missus. I have a 30" piece of 3/4" PVC , with a tee on the end. The tee has pieces glued in to total 18". Start at the bottom and use cheap spray paint to mark my rounds. This makes them all pretty close to the same length. After cutting the rounds to length, I split them on site.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I welded two nuts together and use them to attach a piece of all thread to the chain saw bar. The all thread is the length that I want my firewood cut at.

 

[bcp]

I welded two nuts together and use them to attach a piece of all thread to the chain saw bar. The all thread is the length that I want my firewood cut at.

My suggestion, too, but use a coupling nut and lock nut with the all-thread. Skip the welding.

Bruce

 

[CalG]

I take a switch off any branch handy and cut it to length. The switch goes into the palm of the hand between the top handle.

With a frigg'in length reference right there in front of you, it's hard to go too far astray.

I suppose one could though, if they really tried.

I certainly don't need any right angled appendage hanging off the saw. ;-)

 

[FredH]

A 16" piece of pvc pipe with a marking crayon .

One of these to hold crayon :
Keson LCH1 Aluminum Carded Lumber Crayon Holder - Construction Marking Tools - Amazon.com

These crayons :

Amazon.com: Dixon 496 Lumber Marking Crayons, Yellow, 12-Pack: Home Improvement

My holder actually wedges into the end of the 3/4" pvc pipe , so they are all together . I got the holder and crayons locally and they were cheaper than what amazon is showing . But heck , I bought a sandwich zip lock baggie full of crayons 30 years ago and still have 3/4 of a bag left :confused3:

Fred H.

 

[ericm979]

I've used the bar or saw body itself as a gauge. But that requires turning the saw at 90 degrees to the work to measure.

There's this if you want to spend money: The Mingo Marker Firewood Marker | Firewood Measuring Devices | Firewood Products | www.baileysonline.com

 

[hosspuller]

I want 18 inch lengths... I use an 18 inch saw bar. Always a handy reference .:2cents:

I use a measuring stick with two marks too. One at 18 inches and one is the max height of the piece that will fit into the stove. Saves a lot of splitting when I am cutting limbs. It tells me which pieces have to be split ... the rest will go directly into the stove after cutting to length.

 

[s219]

I think anything you attach to the saw is too Rube Goldberg.

If bucking a long log, I have a loggers tape measure and attach the hook to one end of the log, then, with the tape attached to my belt, walk to the other end of the log streaming the tape out behind me. I will either use a hatchet to make a mark on the log every 16", or use a scrench (screwdriver-wrench tool for chainsaws) to scratch a mark every 16". Easy and quick, and then I walk back down the log in the other direction with my saw making cuts, reeling the tape back in.

If I am working on shorter logs or don't want to use the tape measure, I have a 16" stick of wood that I painted the ends with bright green marking paint (what I had around at the time) to make it very visible. I will use that to pace out 16" chunks and mark the log with hatchet or scrench.

For firewood you don't have to be perfect -- shoot for 16" and eyeball it. When cutting saw logs, I am a little more careful.

 

[pmsmechanic]

My suggestion, too, but use a coupling nut and lock nut with the all-thread. Skip the welding.

Bruce

Except that the all thread is SAE and the bolts on the chain bar are metric.

 

[4570Man]

I can eyeball pretty good on straight timber. On short logs ( read tree guy wood that's free) or crooked logs I like to mark them. Marking paint is the fastest method I've found. If I don't have any paint, a spade bit in a drill is the next best way I've found. I like the idea if holding a branch across the top of the saw. I don't like the idea of a semi permanently attached stick.

 

[BukitCase]

"Except that the all thread is SAE and the bolts on the chain bar are metric. "

Shop Metric Coupling Nuts at Lowes.com
Shop Metric Threaded Rods at Lowes.com

 

[CalG]

I want 18 inch lengths... I use an 18 inch saw bar. Always a handy reference .:2cents:

I use a measuring stick with two marks too. One at 18 inches and one is the max height of the piece that will fit into the stove. Saves a lot of splitting when I am cutting limbs. It tells me which pieces have to be split ... the rest will go directly into the stove after cutting to length.

When you are looking at a 7 cord load, flipping the saw 90 degrees and back again for each cut is just plain idiot work.

that's all I can say about that.

 

[tjkubota93]

I'm an idiot, I use my bar. Just make marks with the chainsaw.

Usually only buck a little at a time.

 

[TomSeller]

I like 16", maybe up to 18". My bar lengths on my saws are 16", 20" and 25". I eyeball the cuts based on marks on the 20 and 25" bars. When using the 16" I just aim for the approx length of the bar. Up to 6" variation doesn't bother me much. I would rather have variation and burn very inch of wood that I can than leave short stubs just so my woodpiles are perfect. I don't sell wood where it makes a difference. I have a side pile of chunks of small wood too short to stack. They come in handy when I just want to keep the fire going for a few hours until I get back home, etc.

 

[pmsmechanic]

"Except that the all thread is SAE and the bolts on the chain bar are metric. "

Shop Metric Coupling Nuts at Lowes.com
Shop Metric Threaded Rods at Lowes.com

Ho Man you are hard to please! I live out in the boonies. I'm not going to drive an hour one way to look for something a store might have. It's just quicker to weld something up. And it's not that hard either. But thanks for your help.

 

[CalG]

I like 16", maybe up to 18". My bar lengths on my saws are 16", 20" and 25". I eyeball the cuts based on marks on the 20 and 25" bars. When using the 16" I just aim for the approx length of the bar. Up to 6" variation doesn't bother me much. I would rather have variation and burn very inch of wood that I can than leave short stubs just so my woodpiles are perfect. I don't sell wood where it makes a difference. I have a side pile of chunks of small wood too short to stack. They come in handy when I just want to keep the fire going for a few hours until I get back home, etc.

Tom

I've got a pile of chunks for the same reason!

 

[Aquamoose]

I use a long white pvc pipe taped black at 18" intervals. Lay it on a stack of logs with the ends squared and mark them with the chainsaw. I usually can do 3-4 logs at a time then I roll them apart & buck them.

 

[square1]

I'm an idiot too. I scribe a line 16" & 14" (for one customer liking shorter lengths) back from the tip on both sides of the bar and brush bright red paint over the scribe marks with a thin brush. When the paint wears off the bar's surface I have a crisp thin red line down each side of the bar at 16" & 14".

Your thread tiltle reminds me of this bit:

Do you know the occupation of the Three Wise Men?

Firemen, they had come from a far.