1970 2520 loader

[cantbeatadeere]

I just installed a 620 loader on my 2520 and have made a few mistakes doing so. first I bought a second SCV (900.00) so I could feed my joystick valve. now, I learn there is a power beyond block(125.00) just for this type of use and works way better than pulling back the SCV lever to run the loader which labors the tractor quite a bit by itself. no I am wondering if there is a better/different way to get the same results, the return is simple enough, just run a line to the filter cover, the pressure is where I'm confused. can I put a compression tee in a pressure line and more important will this hold and not blow apart. I have looked at my service and parts books but everything other than buying the block looks pretty tight. has anyone done this that can post pics or direction....thanks !!

 

[Tx Jim]

If you choose not to utilize PBY block the only other choices I'd recommend to access hyd pressure by utilizing a tee are encircled in green. One could attach at other fitting location(key 2) with a tee but one would be defeating the purpose of the pressure control valve(key 8) saving priority oil for steering & brakes. Did you obtain & install a closed center plug in your JS valve?

 

[cantbeatadeere]

If you choose not to utilize PBY block the only other choices I'd recommend to access hyd pressure by utilizing a tee are encircled in green. One could attach at other fitting location(key 2) with a tee but one would be defeating the purpose of the pressure control valve(key 8) saving priority oil for steering & brakes. Did you obtain & install a closed center plug in your JS valve?

I have an open center joystick style valve assembly Jim, closed center would dead head any flow when handle is centered. I seen the connections you are referring to in my manual but was hoping there was some "secret" easy access port where I could get feed. removing the platform on a 7000.00 paint job is nerve racking....lol. On another topic, being this set of loader frames is not technically for this tractor I was wondering if anyone on here has done this. before I lift ANYTHING I want to make dam sure I have the proper supports as to not damage anything. I have 5 bolts holding it to the frame now - going to add the stiffener that connects the frames under the oil pan this weekend and plan to add a 1/4" plate doubler on the inside of the tractor frame for strength...any other ideas????

 

[Tx Jim]

Open center valve will cause frt hyd pump to cavitate IE not have enough oil for good operation. Yes valve with CC plug will dead head oil at the joystick valve just the way it needs to do for correct hyd operation. Did you torque side frame bolts to specified torque??? What type mounting frames do you have?

 

[cantbeatadeere]

They are 6000 series mounts with 5 holes drilled to bolt to the frame - I will take a couple pics tomorrow so you know exactly what I have....thanks for your time.

 

[cantbeatadeere]

this is the left an right sides so far

 

[cantbeatadeere]

and the joystick I installed

- loader I just backed away from. had it on looks good and works well, although I will not lift anything with it until everything is secure.

 

[jd110]

I am afraid you might have issues with the engine side frames if used the way you have pictured. 6000 series frames are much heavier and taller. I think I would weld extensions to loader mounting frames to use full length of tractor frames and as many bolts as possible. I also would try to make a cross tie under the oil pan, between left and right mounting frames. Something like the 148 loader frame set up. Note item #14. Also #8 that bolts onto the front casting in front of fuel tank.

 

[cantbeatadeere]

Your exactly on track to what I am doing now JD110. I have a second set of side frames with similar extensions to the ones you posted, along with the lower support by the oil pan -- and, this morning I test fitted and drilled the side frames for the bottom support (#14). lifting these dam frames on and off the drill press along with jigging them in place is going to be the end of me!!! . I have removed the front weights and plan on cutting the forward arms on the second set of side frames off and welding them on the 620 loader mounts.......any thoughts on making frame width 1/4" plate steel 3x3 washers to have on the inside of the frame as well ???

 

[cantbeatadeere]

Also for TX Jim, when I got this tractor a couple years ago I had posted how "labored" the engine cranked over, it always started but turned over hard as ****. Seems that was a common problem for a lot of them series tractors. Jim's experience and knowledge led me to either a bypass valve kit Deere offered, or put in a wicked starter. well, I had a local rebuilder "build" me a starter....he took a new old stock Cummings Diesel starter and fitted it with the Deere nose and drive gear ---- WOW she cranks over like no tomorrow. you can see part of the starter in one of the pics, it was a direct fit with no modifications and still on one o.e style battery.:cool2: