Allied 180 loader on Ford 1510

[Asymair95]

I just bought a Ford 1510 with Allied 180 loader, but have not been able to find any information on this loader. Having never had a loader before I would like a manual to help with removal and installation of the loader. It appears the kick stand braces are missing also, so I need to source those parts or make some. Thank you for any help you can give me.

 

[Asymair95]

Contacted Allied about this loader and they said they no longer support it. Looks like I'm going to have to fab up some kind of support so I can remove the loader. Was thinking of using a few pieces of 3/4" ply sandwiched together glued and nailed as a kick stand. I would make it as large as possible, but still be able to be able to drive in and out.

Here is the reply from Allied.

"Unfortunately 180 loaders are obsolete and we only have some cylinders and seal kits left."

When I asked about possibly getting a manual I got this response.

"We do not have any manuals laying around for this model....you can go to our Farm King website and go through some of the manuals to see which might work best for you."

 

[Dave M7040]

I dont think you need to do the work with the plywood as you describe.

The bucket, when the hoses are disconnected stabilizes the loader off the tractor from side to side movement

I had a much larger 660 Allied loader which had the quick disconnect feature.

My neighbor had a 600 loader.

For both of us, removing the loader was a big pain and if possible we both removed the bucket and left the loader arms on.

I have marked up a photo I had that may give you ideas. There was one removal leg that you slid into a socket welded to the cross brace and secured it with a pin.

Then the loader was lowered until the leg was on the ground and supporting the loader.

A real problem was hydraulic pressure remaining of building up in the hydraulic lines and it was almost impossible to get the quick coupler plugged back together.

Ask more questions if my info is not clear to you.

Dave M7040

 

[CincyFlyer]

I dont think you need to do the work with the plywood as you describe.

The bucket, when the hoses are disconnected stabilizes the loader off the tractor from side to side movement

I had a much larger 660 Allied loader which had the quick disconnect feature.

My neighbor had a 600 loader.

For both of us, removing the loader was a big pain and if possible we both removed the bucket and left the loader arms on.

I have marked up a photo I had that may give you ideas. There was one removal leg that you slid into a socket welded to the cross brace and secured it with a pin.

Then the loader was lowered until the leg was on the ground and supporting the loader.

A real problem was hydraulic pressure remaining of building up in the hydraulic lines and it was almost impossible to get the quick coupler plugged back together.

Ask more questions if my info is not clear to you.

Dave M7040

I made a little tool to compress the hydraulic quick connects to release pressure. It's part of an old puller, with an aluminum tip to hit the balls. This is an issue with most tractors, especially if you remove the attachment when it's cool outside and then try to hook it back up when it's hot out and the fluid has expanded!

 

[Dave M7040]

I made a little tool to compress the hydraulic quick connects to release pressure. It's part of an old puller, with an aluminum tip to hit the balls. This is an issue with most tractors, especially if you remove the attachment when it's cool outside and then try to hook it back up when it's hot out and the fluid has expanded!

I had a long brass punch which I would place on the coupler ball and give it a good wack, The ball would unseat momentarily and release a small amount of hydraulic fluid and that usually did the trick. The brass punch would not mark up or dent the ball.
My main point is to think long and hard before removing a loader frame. On my new M7040, which has a FEL, even with the latest features it is a pain.
Dave M7040

 

[Asymair95]

Thank you for the replies. I would like to remove the loader to do a thorough inspection and service on the tractor. The loader is pretty small, so even if I had to manhandle it a little bit, I could have my Pop and Brother give me a hand.

I've googled some pictures of other Allied loaders and it appears these kickstand arms were lost quite frequently. They were stored under the lift arms, and were removed and pinned as a kick stand of sorts when the loader was removed.



My plan is to fab something out of 2x4 box steel. Shouldn't be too bad. Will post back with results.

 

[CincyFlyer]

I had a long brass punch which I would place on the coupler ball and give it a good wack, The ball would unseat momentarily and release a small amount of hydraulic fluid and that usually did the trick. The brass punch would not mark up or dent the ball.
My main point is to think long and hard before removing a loader frame. On my new M7040, which has a FEL, even with the latest features it is a pain.
Dave M7040

My loader goes on or off in minutes—a good design from TYM. The hitch pins are even loose with the loader off the ground, so I can pull them, and just "lift" it off! But the backhoe is a fiddly beast, can eat up a half hour or more if I'm not perfect with it.

 

[Asymair95]

I finally got around to fabbing up a storage stand for the loader out of 2x8s and plywood.




My problem now is I can't get the loader arm retention bolts out so I can remove the loader. Is there a certain position the loader should be in before removing the bolts? Do the bolts even come out? I can get them to turn about a 1/4 turn and then they stop. I have the loader down with weight resting on the parking stands, and they won't budge with a 1/2" impact on them. I've had it soaking in penetrating oil for days and even put a big cheater bar on it until I heard things starting to make "Bad" noises.

View attachment 522386

 

[Asymair95]

I'm thinking now things may be rusted up tight in there. I took a dental pick and pulled out a bunch of junk from between the loader saddle and loader upright. There is about a 1/4" - 1/8" gap between there and years of dirt, sticks and water have taken their toll on the locking lug and bolt.



Question is now what to do? Wondering if sawing the bolt head off will allow the loader to slip out of the saddle, then I could heat the lucking lug up and get the bolt out. I'm open to any suggestions at this point, this thing is trying my patience.

 

[Dave M7040]

I'm thinking now things may be rusted up tight in there. I took a dental pick and pulled out a bunch of junk from between the loader saddle and loader upright. There is about a 1/4" - 1/8" gap between there and years of dirt, sticks and water have taken their toll on the locking lug and bolt.

View attachment 522437

Question is now what to do? Wondering if sawing the bolt head off will allow the loader to slip out of the saddle, then I could heat the lucking lug up and get the bolt out. I'm open to any suggestions at this point, this thing is trying my patience.

Asymair
What is the pin just under the yellow label for? Could it be securing the loader upright to the loader frame?

Does that bolt you cannot move actually screw into the loader upright or does it just press against it to stop rattles.

If it does screw into the loader upright, and you are certain of this because to me it looks small to handle a big load, then use a mini grinder with a cut off disk and cut the bolt shank just where the lock washer is beneath the bolt head.

This will leave you with a stub of the bolt shank once the loader is off. Place a larger nut over the bolt stub and weld the two together welding inside the nut. The welding heat will likely enable you to unscrew the bolt stub.

More pictures from different angles would be a big help in understanding just what you have.

Dave m7040

 

[Asymair95]

The pin you see is for the lower side of the boom actuator. You can see it in this pic.



You can see in this pic from the internet that there is just the one bolt on the back. I believe it engages some kind of locking lug inside the tower. I don't think it just screws into the tower steel, judging from what I've seen on google.



Your plan about cutting the head off is what I was thinking too. I did pull the tractor out and raise the loader all the way up to see what kind of room that afforded me to work on the engine. I think that is a better idea, as I don't actually "Really" need the loader off at this time.

I do need advice on blocking the loader up so I don't get crushed. I know there are locks they make that fit over the cylinder piston, has anyone fabricated something like this before?

 

[Dave M7040]

In my younger years when knowledge was lacking and money tight, my technique was to raise the loader all the way up and then drive the tractor so the bucket was against a tree or side of
an old building. I would test this method by trying to lower the arms. They would not move so I felt safe. I would block the tractor rear wheels as an added safety precaution.

Modern backhoes have safety devices which swing into place along side the extended cylinder push rod.

Unless you know what you are doing, home made stops could dislodge or crush and the arms come down. The time of greatest danger is when you feel what you are doing is safe!

I felt the tree or old building was not going anywhere.

Chaining the bucket to something overhead and strong will work but you need to be certain a hook on the chain does not come undone.

Others here may have better ideas for you.

Dave m7040

 

[Phillip w]

I like the idea of chaining the loader up and the lower the loader to put tension on chain to keep it from coming unhooked. Another trick I like and have adopted is setting a larger post in the area you want to work on the tractor. Drive tractor up to the post. Raise the loader and set it top of the post. Apply alittle down pressure so loader sets firmly on the top of the post and won't slip off.

 

[Cw021382]

I know this thread is 3 years old, but I just acquired an Allied 180 loader to put on my John Deere 755 tractor. I contacted Allied via a Farm King dealer, and I got a prompt response and an emailed copy of the old 180 sales brochure. It’s got the specs, and I thought posting it here might someday help someone else out. I have to say I am impressed by the customer service of the farm king/allied network. -Chris

 

[gCount]

Thanks so much!