Tire Selection School me on tractor/tire width

[MAD777]

I'm currently building a home on a sloped, wooded property & researching to buy a tractor. Through this forum, I've been able to understand what to look for. However, determining the width of a tractor whose specs show different tread widths vs tire types has me thoroughly confused.

The following items include a clip from a tractor spec sheet where I've circled the tire size and tread width. As I understand it, tread width is the lateral distance between the center point of the tires.

In the second item below, I've added the tire width to the tread width to determine the total with of the rear of the tractor. I'm not sure if I've done this correctly.

If my results are accurate, this shows a significant difference in total width, therefore significant differences in tractor stability depending on the choice of tire types.

On my wooded, sometimes wet land, I need good traction, which would point me to Ag tires, but due to my sloped land, stability is also an important consideration. So, I'm wondering if my calculations are done correctly.

 

[CincyFlyer]

Yeah, turf tires do indeed give you a wider track (that's the automotive term for it) and they lower the tractor, a two-for-one towards more stability. They also are much easier on grass! But like you, my few acres are hilly and can be muddy for several months of the year, so I had to go with ags. I'm keeping my eye out for a set of suitable turfs on wheels, however!
Edit: for my tractor, the turf tires on the proper rims are much wider track than the ags. The industrials appear to be very wide in your example; I'd get with the tractor dealer and see if you can get some actual measurements (and note that rim offset can often be changed with any type of tire.). Industrial tires may be a decent compromise for you. Me殆ell, I've gotten a 4wd tractor stuck in the mud with ags. Hopefully after my current project there won't be any more areas where that can happen.

 

[crmorse]

I've got similar land and since I got an L47 Ags aren't even an option. I appreciate the extra strength of the R4s but they absolutely suck in mud. My 2WD 8N with Ags (20hp on a good day) will out pull my 50HP 4WD L47 easily if there's any mud to be had. If R1s were an option, I'd do it. Look for wheel spacers or whatever other tricks are available and fill those tires and I think you'll be happy.

 

[jeff9366]

Tractor widths in brochures always are with R1/ag tires. Ag tires were "first" and that is the convention.

R4/industrial tires will always be a little wider.

Most of us with RESIDENTIAL use tractors do not work on wet days. We wait until land drys out.

If clearing a drive of snow will be a regular task the average amount and average depth of snow falls should be an important input to tractor tire selection.

 

[MAD777]

Thanks for all the comments. Everything is helpful since this will be my first tractor.

Some areas of the property stay wet and unfortunately, that area is centrally located so I have to navigate that.

Oh yes, there is snow. White Mountains of New Hampshire with a 400' gravel driveway. I've accepted chains as a reality during winter.

 

[LD1]

Ag tires are almost always adjustable, and usually to just as wide, if not a tad wider than the r4's or turfs.

The listed width for AG tires is almost never the max, rather something middle of the road how the tire comes set up.

Most tread width options for ags are listed in the operator manual. Usually about 6 different options in 2" increments or so.

Perhaps list the models of tractors you are interested in, and members here can take a picture of the page in their manual that lists all this info.

I have manuals for Kubota L3400 ( which should be the same as the L2800,L3200, L3700, L3301 and L3901)

Also have manual for my Mx5200. Which should also be the same for the rest of the MX tractors.

I'd be happy to offer a pic of the manuals when I get home, if either of those are contenders on your list

 

[MAD777]

I take it these adjustments are common. Now I know what to ask of the dealers I visit.

So, I should get the tires that I need for traction, and adjust the width for stability. Sounds like Ag tires with spacers.

 

[LD1]

So, I should get the tires that I need for traction, and adjust the width for stability. Sounds like Ag tires with spacers.

That's what I would do. But I'd hold off on spacer unless you really think you need them. Set the tires in their widest position first

 

[jeff9366]

So, I should get the tires that I need for traction, and adjust the width for stability. Sounds like Ag tires with spacers.

1. R1s are usually four ply. Available in six ply and eight ply. The flexibility of four ply provides largest tire patch on the ground and greatest traction. R1s can imprint turf. R1s provide a rough ride when traveling over hard surface roads at speed.

2. R4s are usually six ply. Available in eight and ten ply. More plies better support heavy FEL loads. No tire squashing. Most using tractors with loaders opt for R4/industrial tires. R4s provide a relatively smooth ride when traveling over hard road surfaces.

3. Many tractors with loaders visit a burn pile regularly. Around a burn pile the greater puncture resistance of R4s should be considered.

4. Loading rear tires 3/4 with liquid lowers the center-of-gravity of the whole tractor. Rear tire liquid should be installed before spacers are considered.

5. Most "standard" tractors do not have adjustable rear tire widths.



You can purchase 3" spacers for each side for light tractors. As tractor weight goes up, spacers decrease to 1-1/2" per side due to need to support heavier tractor loads. Spacers are more cost effective on light tractors. There is an installation fee for spacers as wheels must be removed.

Spacers for light tractors are $300 a pair from Bro-Tek, plus installation. Spacers for ag tractors are $600+ a pair from Unverferth, plus installation.

 

[newbury]

<snip>
5. Most "standard" tractors do not have adjustable rear tire widths.<snip>

That is confusing.
Did you mean adjusting the actual width of the individual tires?

On my M4700 I've 5 settings to adjust distance between tire centers. From 52" to 67.7".

 

[LD48750]

5. Most "standard" tractors do not have adjustable rear tire widths.

Most tractors with R-1's, are adjustable via wheel center & rim position.

With 8 possible positions, quite a bit of adjustment is available.

 

[jeff9366]

My Grand L has adjustable rear tire widths too. Four widths for R1s, three width for R4s.

Some will perform serious dirt plowing with Kubota 'M' tractors. Adjustable tire widths are important to getting multiple bottom moldboard plows to follow the tractor correctly.

 

[LD1]

Yep, most ag tires are adjustable.

If you are thinking along the lines of spin-outs....no most basic tractors dont have that.

But dish in or dish out
Hub inside or outside the loops on the rims
And since the hoops are usually offset, which way is rim turned?

So 3 variables....2 possible positions with each variable....2 x 2 x 2 is 8 possibilities. (though some of the combinations may equal the same spacing overall) Probably why the manual for a M4700 pictured only shows 5 combinations

 

[MAD777]

I need to study up on the flexibility of these tractor wheels!

 

[Timm250]

Just to throw something else in the mix look at R1W ag tires. More tread a lot better traction.

 

[kthompson]

Not familiar with R1W tires but what little I read on them have positive comments. I rather have radial ag tires for your need. Lug patterns vary across the brands, not sure the brand but few years back had a Case with radials that pulled great and were easy on turf.

 

[LD1]

I need to study up on the flexibility of these tractor wheels!

Its nothing new. Look closely at the pic of the section in the manual that someone posted.

You can see the hub is dished. So its a HUGE difference between dish in vs dish out. And the wheels are 2-piece. Meaning the hub and rim are separate pieces and bolt together.

The "loops" on the rims where the hub bolts is ~2" thick. So simply mounting the hum to the inside or outside will make a 2" difference each side.

And those loops are usually offset on the rim.....so turning the rim around usually gets 2 more possibilities.....

This "method" of adjusting track width has been around since the 1940's. And while in todays scale of farming, adjusting rims isnt something most farmers do anymore. But in the days of pulling plows, and row-cropping.....had to space the wheels to accommodate whatever width rows you were planting and for plow setup.

I looked at the M4700 bit that newbury posted again. With 5 possibilities it seems the 3 not show are the narrowest 3. Perhaps there is an issue with fender clearance.

But just in general....here are the 8 posibilities

http://www.oldfergusontractors.com/wp-content/Resources/Wheel Spacings.jpg

 

[oosik]

I would add - if you are thinking of loading your rear tires with some form of liquid, then choose your width ( rim offset ) BEFORE having the tires filled.

As an example - I have R1 tires on my M6040( 16.9 x 28 6PR, rears ). The rears are fluid filled - set at one step short of max width - each rear tire weighs over 900#.

I'm not in any position to "wrestle" a 900# tire into some other offset alignment( I have a choice of eight differing offsets). I'm pretty sure the local Les Schwab tire dealership would want to remove the Rimguard from the tire before fiddling with alternate offsets. An expensive decision on my part.

 

[jeff9366]

Its nothing new. Look closely at the pic of the section in the manual that someone posted.

You can see the hub is dished. So its a HUGE difference between dish in vs dish out. And the wheels are 2-piece. Meaning the hub and rim are separate pieces and bolt together.

The "loops" on the rims where the hub bolts is ~2" thick. So simply mounting the hum to the inside or outside will make a 2" difference each side.

And those loops are usually offset on the rim.....so turning the rim around usually gets 2 more possibilities.....

This "method" of adjusting track width has been around since the 1940's. And while in todays scale of farming, adjusting rims isnt something most farmers do anymore. But in the days of pulling plows, and row-cropping.....had to space the wheels to accommodate whatever width rows you were planting and for plow setup.

I looked at the M4700 bit that newbury posted again. With 5 possibilities it seems the 3 not show are the narrowest 3. Perhaps there is an issue with fender clearance.

But just in general....here are the 8 posibilities

http://www.oldfergusontractors.com/wp-content/Resources/Wheel Spacings.jpg

VERY INFORMATIVE. I have not seen this info posted before.

 

[drizler]

I take it these adjustments are common. Now I know what to ask of the dealers I visit.

Sticking way out there in the rear can cause you to hit things when maneuvering around tight places. Keep that in mind if you plan on mowing or plowing snow. It's nice to know you can skinny by those objects and still have the rear tire clear it. It takes a long time to get used to a wide rear set when you drove a matched tire set for years and that rear can do some real damage