Backhoe KB2475 backhoe on CK35

[Amvcane]

Just put the backhoe on to ready some holes before the apple trees arrive and the subframe to hoe was very sloppy, loose bolts. Tightened all bolts and it was still sloppy. It seems the upper left bolt in the pic egged out the hole some. Only explanation. It seems like the only solution I can think of is to drill out the hole to the next size bolt or weld it.
Has anyone else had this problem? Tried one of these solutions? Or have a better idea?

 

[davrow]

I haven't had any isses with those bolts. Now I'll have to watch them! :shocked:

I would think just adding material (by welding) to the egged out hole and drilling to same size is what would appeal most to me for a fix. Looks like it would be very hard to weld a backing plate on, and putting such on outside would mess up strut geometry.

If you drill to larger size will bolt head fit the retaining lugs?

 

[Coyote machine]

Are you referring to the bolt at the top of the cross brace, (grey/black metal) that goes down to the frame rail? Is it only on one side? Have you owned the hoe since new? How many hours on it? Is it greased regularly?
I have the 2485 same basic hoe and I beat it to death mostly. There are some rattles and rolls, but I can't see in your pic where the elongation is apparent. Maybe it's hidden in the pic?
I'm asking questions to better understand what might be happening, no insinuations toward your care of the implement...

 

[VictorW]

I have a KB2375 on my CK30hst. There is a good bit of pressure put on those bolts when using the bh. Mine would loosen up a little so used loctite on the bolts even though they have lock washers. Solved the problem of loosening for me. As far as fixing yours, I probably would weld the elongated hole and get it back to original.

 

[Coyote machine]

Are you referring to the bolt at the top of the cross brace, (grey/black metal) that goes down to the frame rail? Is it only on one side? Have you owned the hoe since new? How many hours on it? Is it greased regularly?
I have the 2485 same basic hoe and I beat it to death mostly. There are some rattles and rolls, but I can't see in your pic where the elongation is apparent. Maybe it's hidden in the pic?
I'm asking questions to better understand what might be happening, no insinuations toward your care of the implement...
I note you said you tightened up all the bolts. was there play in any other the other bolts? I suspect so if you were able to tighten them.

I found the loader to frame bolts were too short and tended to back out on the right side. I replaced the bolts with longer ones of the same diameter before the holes got damaged enough to cause real nightmare problems. I also coated them with locktite and check them for tightness regularly. Since doing so I've not had any further issues. I mention this because sometimes things get overbored at the factory, or were never tightened enough, and then things wear like what you're experiencing....

Seems what was mentioned above, adding material and going back to original size hole and bolt would likely work best.:thumbsup:

 

[DK35vince]

My Rhino hoe/subframe mount bolts (same setup) kept coming loose.
I welded them years ago, no more issues.

 

[jabelding]

Mine came welded from the dealer, they put a bead down each side top and bottom. Not like you ever need to take it apart and if you do its not that bad to grind off the welds.

 

[Amvcane]

The movement is in the bolt connecting the grey crossmember to the orange hoe station. Bought new, tractor has 205 hrs, hoe has about 75 tough hrs. Hoe greased about every 5 hours. Mostly used digging in rocky hard clay and digging out very large rocks.
I have not taken the bolt out yet, but I know the hole is slightly elongated because the bolt is tight and there is still movement. It seems to be mostly the right side while sitting on the hoe. Last fall when driving on rough terrain I could hear the hoe clunking with every twist of the frame. This is when I noticed that a couple of the bolts were loose. Tightened them, I guess the damage was already started. There is still to much movement and it's only going to slowly get worse. The fix is still the same.
I thought I read a thread a while back where someone had a CK27 with hoe where this crossmember was welded from the factory and the welds cracked. Think the welds were not continuous, just a couple of 1" beads.
Welding the crossmember, to me, seems like the best repair, but I'm going to try the easier solution first, welding some material to the hole and get it to the proper size.

I would recommend to retorque these bolts every time you grease to avoid problems like this.

Thanks all.

 

[Coyote machine]

I agree with filling the hole in the station to original diameter and then bolt it back up tight, and keep it tight. There's a LOT of force digging out big rocks with this type of sub-frame mounted hoe. Something's got to give over time. Like you said, the damage had probably already begun by the time you found the loose bolts/nuts.
I also agree that welding a bead on the crossmember's attachment to the station is not likely to be able to take the stresses exerted by the hoe's movements, and will fail over time.
How about some pics of the repair as you put it back together?

Thanks,

CM

 

[Amvcane]

Will report back when I finally get to. Need the hoe the next few weeks.

 

[mj007]

Just put the backhoe on to ready some holes before the apple trees arrive and the subframe to hoe was very sloppy, loose bolts. Tightened all bolts and it was still sloppy. It seems the upper left bolt in the pic egged out the hole some. Only explanation. It seems like the only solution I can think of is to drill out the hole to the next size bolt or weld it.
Has anyone else had this problem? Tried one of these solutions? Or have a better idea?


View attachment 505168

Just weld the brace , top & bottom, then you're done with it. They are made to break-down for shipping, so just weld it up and be happy!

 

[rimshot]

my CK2510 carries the 2475 Kioti back hoe that started ouit on my old CK20 that was repl;aced by thie 2510 Eastern White Cedar. This backhoe spendt thie Winter in the barn and has not been mounted thiis year just yet. Reading this thiread reminded me it is a good time to inspect the torque and wear to those mentioned bolts and nuts. While they needed tightening they do not apppear to show signs of excessive wear. For now I simply tighitened them up for all I was worth. The welder is going to stop by shortly and weld hooks on my snowblower to aid in transporting around. It will also be a good time to at least tack the nuts holding the backhoe sub frames being discussed here. Any comments on simply tacking thie nut since it is fresh tightened. It might beat welding those struts and can be easily reversed. I hope in my haste I did not miss somebodies post concerning this effort. I will re reread this thread to see.

rim

 

[DK35vince]

my CK2510 carries the 2475 Kioti back hoe that started ouit on my old CK20 that was repl;aced by thie 2510 Eastern White Cedar. This backhoe spendt thie Winter in the barn and has not been mounted thiis year just yet. Reading this thiread reminded me it is a good time to inspect the torque and wear to those mentioned bolts and nuts. While they needed tightening they do not apppear to show signs of excessive wear. For now I simply tighitened them up for all I was worth. The welder is going to stop by shortly and weld hooks on my snowblower to aid in transporting around. It will also be a good time to at least tack the nuts holding the backhoe sub frames being discussed here. Any comments on simply tacking thie nut since it is fresh tightened. It might beat welding those struts and can be easily reversed. I hope in my haste I did not miss somebodies post concerning this effort. I will re reread this thread to see.
rim

Not sure just welding the nuts would do much good, but you can try.
I welded both ends of the "struts" and the backhoe to the frame and never any more issues.
I can always cut the welds later to remove those pieces if need.

 

[Amvcane]

Saturday I used the bucket to help support the backhoe and removed one of the upper strut bolts. The hole is not really egged out, but definitely large for the bolt. The movement turns the lock washer which then loosens the nut. I put a large flat washer under the lock washer and this seems to have kept the movement away from the lock washer and the nut has stayed tight so far.
My little 110v mig welder will not get the penetration needed for this task, so when I have access to or buy a larger welder, I will remove the diagonal brace, grind the paint off where needed, weld and repaint.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Just spit balling here, but if you don't want to weld (or until you weld) you could make a sleeve (short piece of pipe) that fits over the bolt . Then drill out the hole slightly smaller than the sleeve and pound in the sleeve. That should provide a tight fit with no motion after you reinstall the bolt. Welding should be better but a sleeve would allow future disassembly if needed.

 

[Amvcane]

Great idea. Thanks.