1026R Steering quit

[kroog]

I was using my 1026R today and the steering quit. The steering wheel spins, but the tires don't turn. I still have hydraulic functions to the loader, 3pt and mower.
It only has 135 hours.
The steering worked fine when when the steering wheel was all the way forward, but when I adjusted it back, the steering quit and now will not engage even with the steering wheel back all the way forward.
Can someone give me some guidance on what to look at/for?

 

[beenthere]

I would suspect something came loose in a connection, and you'll need to track where any movement of the steering wheel stops before it gets to the front wheels.
Or dealer time.
:welcome: to TBN

 

[Eric102]

Yikes! That sounds like a real safety issue that John Deere might want to know about. Contact your dealer ASAP!

 

[kroog]

Yikes! That sounds like a real safety issue that John Deere might want to know about. Contact your dealer ASAP!

The steering worked fine when when the steering wheel was all the way forward, but when I adjusted it back, the steering quit and now will not engage even with the steering wheel back all the way forward.
Can someone give me some guidance on what to look at/for?

 

[s219]

From your description, I'd say the knuckle or joint that allows tilt steering possibly came apart or got disconnected. Can you look at the steering shaft?

 

[kroog]

From your description, I'd say the knuckle or joint that allows tilt steering possibly came apart or got disconnected. Can you look at the steering shaft?

I double checked the steering shafts from the steering wheel to the valve. They both turn left and right. When you turn the wheel either direction, you can hear the steering valve "clicking".
The front wheels turn to the right with no weight on them. They try to turn right when I turn the wheel left. I can get them semi-straight if I back up and turn the wheel left. I can't get them to return to center, nor turn left past center. I plan to remove both steering cylinder lines today and turn the valve to see if I have oil to both sides. I will also move the steering cylinder full left to see if I may have internal bypass in the cylinder, or if its a problem with the valve.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[kroog]

I double checked the steering shafts from the steering wheel to the valve. They both turn left and right. When you turn the wheel either direction, you can hear the steering valve "clicking".
The front wheels turn to the right with no weight on them. They try to turn right when I turn the wheel left. I can get them semi-straight if I back up and turn the wheel left. I can't get them to return to center, nor turn left past center. I plan to remove both steering cylinder lines today and turn the valve to see if I have oil to both sides. I will also move the steering cylinder full left to see if I may have internal bypass in the cylinder, or if its a problem with the valve.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I removed the turn left hose from the cylinder (head end) and turned the steering wheel-good oil flow out of the hose.
I straightened the tires to center and spun the steering wheel to the right-oil poured out of the head end (left turn) fitting and the cylinder rod did not move.
Makes me think the cylinder is bypassing internally.
Any thoughts?

 

[kroog]

I removed the turn left hose from the cylinder (head end) and turned the steering wheel-good oil flow out of the hose.
I straightened the tires to center and spun the steering wheel to the right-oil poured out of the head end (left turn) fitting and the cylinder rod did not move.
Makes me think the cylinder is bypassing internally.
Any thoughts?

I removed both hoses and turned the wheels left and right to remove the oil from the cylinder.
I applied shop air to the base end and the cylinder extended-right turn ok.
I applied air to the head end-left turn and it just blew out the base end fitting without moving the cylinder rod.
The steering cylinder has an internal bypass.
Now I need to know if I can reseal it or if it has to be replaced.
Any suggestions?

 

[RalphVa]

I'd call the dealer. They need to know about this. My 1025R was very buggy. I even accidently turned off the fuel once on it because the toe of my shoe hit the fuel shutoff switch.

Finally traded for a 2025R with no issues whatever before the warranty was off on the 1025R.

 

[kroog]

I'd call the dealer. They need to know about this. My 1025R was very buggy. I even accidently turned off the fuel once on it because the toe of my shoe hit the fuel shutoff switch.

Finally traded for a 2025R with no issues whatever before the warranty was off on the 1025R.

I know the 1025Rs have a myriad of problems.
I avoided buying one because of the Tier IV final with the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF).
I compared the engine of the 1026R to the 1025R and you'd be amazed how much more stuff is under the hood.
I'm all about simple.
I know the local Deere dealership and doubt they would offer any assistance or Goodwill due to the tractor is now 5 years old.
I will call and let them know to see what they suggest.
My guess is they will offer me a replacement at list price + shipping.
Just my two cents.
I have a Deere 455 AWS and a Deere 318D skid steer. They have both been VERY reliable, but not trouble-free.
Any time you have something mechanical, things can go wrong.

 

[s219]

The 1025R doesn't have any added emissions -- all they did was de-rate the power to stay under 26HP (tractors under 26HP already satisfy Tier 4 Final without DPF or other extras).

Can you look at parts diagrams to see how complicated the steering cylinder is, and whether it can easily be rebuilt??

 

[kroog]

The 1025R doesn't have any added emissions -- all they did was de-rate the power to stay under 26HP (tractors under 26HP already satisfy Tier 4 Final without DPF or other extras).

Can you look at parts diagrams to see how complicated the steering cylinder is, and whether it can easily be rebuilt??

Welded cylinder. Can't rebuild without cutting it and rewelding it. No rebuild kits offered.
I found one online much more reasonable than the $335.00 the dealer wants.
I could have taken it to my local hydraulic shop to have them match it up with an aftermarket, but I figured I'd stay with genuine Deere and not worry about will-fits and associated problems.

 

[kroog]

Welded cylinder. Can't rebuild without cutting it and rewelding it. No rebuild kits offered.
I found one online much more reasonable than the $335.00 the dealer wants.
I could have taken it to my local hydraulic shop to have them match it up with an aftermarket, but I figured I'd stay with genuine Deere and not worry about will-fits and associated problems.

Take a look at this comparison for pics of the engines of the 1026R vs 1025R
Seems to be a lot busier under the hood of a 1025R.

http://www.mytractorforum.com/325-john-deere-scut/289481-1025r-vs-1026r.html

 

[s219]

Take a look at this comparison for pics of the engines of the 1026R vs 1025R
Seems to be a lot busier under the hood of a 1025R.

http://www.mytractorforum.com/325-john-deere-scut/289481-1025r-vs-1026r.html

Different air cleaner intake (snorkel) plumbing, but not related to emissions or anything to do with Tier IV Final. If you look closely at those pictures you can see a standard muffler and no DPF on either model. There is some confusion about this, but all Deere did was change to the 3TNV80 engine and get under 26HP to meet Tier IV final requirements.

 

[kroog]

Different air cleaner intake (snorkel) plumbing, but not related to emissions or anything to do with Tier IV Final. If you look closely at those pictures you can see a standard muffler and no DPF on either model. There is some confusion about this, but all Deere did was change to the 3TNV80 engine and get under 26HP to meet Tier IV final requirements.

Ah-ha.
So are you happy with the 1025R? and how do they compare to the 1026R?

 

[s219]

Ah-ha.
So are you happy with the 1025R? and how do they compare to the 1026R?

I don't own either (briefly considered 1026R when shopping for my first tractor back in 2011) but I consider both models equivalent. The changes from 1026R to 1025R were all extremely minor. Still think they are one of the better subcompacts out there.

 

[kroog]

Ah-ha.
So are you happy with the 1025R? and how do they compare to the 1026R?

I talked to a John Deere tech and found out Deere had some failures with the steering cylinder.
The rod nut backs off so the oil bypasses the piston.
Since it's a welded cylinder, you can't disassemble it.
A possible fix is to remove the cylinder, and the base end fitting, hold the nut with a screwdriver inside the cylinder bore, spin the nut back on the piston rod and apply thread lock.
If the threads are damaged, you have to replace the cylinder.
I opted to replace the cylinder to avoid any system contamination from the failure.

 

[Richard001]

One would think that such a situation would require a recall. Driving a tractor without steering can be dangerous to your and others health.

Is the dealer going to charge you for the new cylinder?

Richard

 

[kroog]

One would think that such a situation would require a recall. Driving a tractor without steering can be dangerous to your and others health.

Is the dealer going to charge you for the new cylinder?

Richard

Amen to that.
My local dealer is NOT very generous with that type of thing.
I will call, but seriously doubt they will offer anything other than to sell me another at full price + 5%

 

[Richard001]

You may want to fill out this report that then will get filled with the e U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission.

Go here:
CPSC SaferProducts.gov | Report an Unsafe Product

Richard