Lenar 254 II Hydraulic pump weak

[Dave M7040]

If you let that knob open,the three poiint hitch arms work and the backhoe does not.If you close it,it energizes the backhoe / external implement quick connect fitting.I know this for certain.I have no info on the backhoe,other than it is a John Deere #7.The FEL is a TAS ML160,built in Canada.
Mike

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Mike
If I am to have any success getting the proper manuals, I need some name plate info from your tractor.

Am I correct now in understanding both the backhoe and FEL were added after the tractor left the factory and the unit was not all coming with both front and rear additions. Kubota sells the B21 loader backhoe units often seen in rental places and yours was not like this.

You have shown me a photo of where the backhoe is attached, where the pressure gauge is presently.

Where does the FEL get its pressure?

Dave M7040

 

[Greygoose]

Dave-
The FEL gets it's pressure from the line coming off the box that I believe the valve is in.It is part number 8 on the diagram-that is a banjo bolt.Where would I find a nameplate?Thanks again,
Mike

 

[Dave M7040]

Dave-
The FEL gets it's pressure from the line coming off the box that I believe the valve is in.It is part number 8 on the diagram-that is a banjo bolt.Where would I find a nameplate?Thanks again,
Mike

Mike

This is where I would start looking for a name plate.

Dave M7040

 

[Greygoose]

Here you go Dave.

 

[Dave M7040]

Here you go Dave.

View attachment 500194

Great stuff
This will make getting accurate info much easier.
dave

 

[Dave M7040]

Great stuff
This will make getting accurate info much easier.
dave

Mike
Sent the label photo to Red River parts.
See their answer below.
I will email you the link to the manuals.
I think the relief vale info I sent you recently was from those manuals so I dont know what to suggest as you have higher pressures than the manual says you should have.
I suggest, after you look at the manuals,to call Red River and through a conversation try and figure out if there were any dealer options that might have been put on your tractor which are not reflected in the manuals. For example, when the FEL or backhoe was put on, did something get changed?
David

David
Those are the manuals I sent to you. JTC LE254 II
So, you have the correct ones.
Gary

Gary Krigbaum
Red River Parts Supply Co., LLC
parts@rraparts.com
319-892-3354 (to leave a voice message)
Chinese Tractor Parts
319-432-4530 cell

 

[Greygoose]

Thanks for all the help Dave.The only manual I did not have was the maintenance manual.I looked through it and cannot find anything anywhere about adjusting the pressure relief valve though.Dang it.I do know that I have lost allot of power since owning this tractor in both the hoe and the FEL.The Lenar mechanic did tell me that I should be getting around 2500lbs.-not arguing with you but I am wondering if perhaps they did an adjustment on that valve or re-shimmed it and now it needs done again.I am almost ready to give it a shot-it's easily accessible and looks fairly simple-I just don't know what adding a shim or taking one out does?
Mike

 

[Dave M7040]

Thanks for all the help Dave.The only manual I did not have was the maintenance manual.I looked through it and cannot find anything anywhere about adjusting the pressure relief valve though.Dang it.I do know that I have lost allot of power since owning this tractor in both the hoe and the FEL.The Lenar mechanic did tell me that I should be getting around 2500lbs.-not arguing with you but I am wondering if perhaps they did an adjustment on that valve or re-shimmed it and now it needs done again.I am almost ready to give it a shot-it's easily accessible and looks fairly simple-I just don't know what adding a shim or taking one out does?
Mike

Mike
The installation of the FEL or backhoe could have completely changed the system.

For example, the line with the quick connect coupling coming off the pump and into the shunt valve. That does not look like a factory chinese installation.

Good luck.

Let me know if you achieve success or not.

Dave M7040

 

[Greygoose]

I agree-it does not.If I decide to try a tiny shim mod,do I add a few thousandths shim or take one out to start with?Then I would just slowly apply RPM and watch the gauge to test it,being sure not to go over 2500lbs.

 

[Greygoose]

I tried adding one at a time until I could no longer fit any more shims in it Dave-no change in pressure-still 1900lbs.I think I am just going to order a new pump.
Mike

 

[Dave M7040]

I tried adding one at a time until I could no longer fit any more shims in it Dave-no change in pressure-still 1900lbs.I think I am just going to order a new pump.
Mike

Mike
Before deciding you need a new pump, why not test the old one in place.

First, you never want to cut off the output of the pump completely because to do so will destroy it.

Disconnect the pump from the valve below using the quick coupler.

Install a Tee on the pump outlet with your new gauge in one leg of the tee.

On the open end of the tee, install a hydraulic valve, not a water valve but the same style as an outside faucett, one where you can choke the flow slowly. Run the outlet of that valve back into the tractor or even a bucket for this very short test

With the tractor running slowly, restrict the flow out of the pump with the valve watching your pressure gauge. It will increase in pressure. Don't go over the 2,500 psi you have been told is the normal limit.

Don't pump all the oil out of the tractor and run the pump dry. 33 liters per minute is a lot of oil!

If you see 2,500psi out of the old pump, buying a new pump is not going to solve anything except slim your wallet.

Dave M7040

 

[Leejohn]

If it was me I would not be useing any kind of water valve for a test like that.

 

[Dave M7040]

If it was me I would not be useing any kind of water valve for a test like that.

Water valve was NEVER suggested. Please re read my post.

Mike(Greygoose) and I have been on a long journey with this issue. Having Chinese labels translated to learn his tractor had a Single Channel hydraulic shunt valve was, and on and on............

Dave m7040

 

[Leejohn]

I do see where you said same style as an outside faucett. Are you meaning a gate or globe valve?

I have been reading the thread all along and I see the trouble you are having.

 

[Greygoose]

Thanks Dave,good idea.

 

[Dave M7040]

I do see where you said same style as an outside faucett. Are you meaning a gate or globe valve?

I have been reading the thread all along and I see the trouble you are having.

Leejohn.

First I apologize if my first reply to you was a little too abrupt. Have serious pain issues and live on opioids.... so at times like a bear with a sore foot.

The ideal valve for this testing is a needle valve where the adjustments in flow can be done in minute increments. Hydraulic needle valves can be hard to find and expensive.

The gate valve, I have never seen in outdoor, or sill faucet applications because they usually leak as they rely on the usually brass gate to seal to another metal surface. Gate valves don't have a
linearity when it comes to change in flow versus position of the hand-wheel. First as you turn the hand-wheel there is no change in flow and then it suddenly jumps.

The globe valve is the most reasonable alternative, if a hydraulic one can be found locally. Alternatively, a fixed orifice plate could be made by Mike, as he is a machinist, to restrict the flow thus forcing the pressure to rise for measurement. He could alter the engine speed and as the flow increases through the orifice plate, the pressure should rise if the pump is OK.

Dave M7040

 

[Greygoose]

Wow,so I should not have used brass waterpipe fittings to adapt the lines to my gauge??Woops.

 

[Dave M7040]

Wow,so I should not have used brass waterpipe fittings to adapt the lines to my gauge??Woops.

Mike
I should have made certain you did not do that. I mistakenly assumed, since you had to buy the gauge at a hydraulics place, you would have bought the bushings and adapters there at the same time.

Do you know about the dangers of small leaks from say a hydraulic hose? The natural reaction is to put your hand above a tiny jet of spray to confirm it is leaking. In doing so you have injected into your body the leaking oil. Most tractor manuals contain cautions about doing this and show how you hold a piece of cardboard over the spot to determine if there is a leak. Should you ever inject high pressure anything into your skin, even if it is water from a pressure washer, get to a hospital immediately. The Chinese have a large population so don't seem to be as concerned with losing one to a tractor incident.
This material is from a Kubota manual. Never saw in the Lenar manuals.

Please, if you decide to test your pump as I suggested but before you do, send me a couple of photos so I can be more careful you are doing nothing dangerous.

Dave M7040

 

[Dave M7040]

I do see where you said same style as an outside faucett. Are you meaning a gate or globe valve?

I have been reading the thread all along and I see the trouble you are having.

Leejohn

I have all available, manuals for the Lenar and could send you the link to download them? Interesting reading, almost complete lack of info on some topics.

Dave M7040

 

[Greygoose]

And I did just notice a crack in one of the brass adapters.Thank God I don't have a chunk of brass in my brain!Wow,good info here,thanks again Dave.Again I buy all of the tees,adapters,valve,etc.,I might just be better off to haul the tractor to a heavy equipment place and have them check the pump pressure for me right off the pump-I wouldn't think they would charge me too much. ??
Mike