cornhead grease is pretty expensive.
You can get 0 grease from a snapper / Stens dealer for 8$ a quart... that's pretty expensive too.
OR.. since this is a JUNK mower, you can use cheapy 1.50$ a tube #2 gun grease and a splash of gear oil.
This ain't a corn header he's repairing. it's a JUNK mower he wan't to get another year out of.
Heck walmart ( in some places sell NLGI 1 or 1.5 tubes as well ).
I personally wouldn't go 00. 0 would be the thinnest. He likely has NO seal at all. as in, a 1/16" GAP where a seal lip would be. thinned #2 gun greas for a couple bucks is a GOOD solution here. not fancy header grease that can cost 3+$ per tube.
You kinda have to have had experience working on and running old farm junk like this to have good perspective on what's a good bandaid repair, and what's throwing money into a hole.
I've got an old servis/rhino HD 6' mower like this. came free, needed welding at the tail wheel. box was bone dry , but clean when I got it.
bearings were ok. ( not perfect ), but ok.
you could watch 85-140 run out.
I DO have 0 and 00 grease for steering boxes on hand, again, 8$ a quart for 00, and the tubes of cornhead grease cost me just over 3$ a tube... no way I was putting those in.
cheap 1.25? amber grease tubes from walmart, plus whatever 85-14 that was staying pooled ended up making a nice slumping lube that didn't migrate too much.
Box had a vented pipe plug for fill, and a 1/4" plug for level check, I replaced the level check with a grease plug, and she gets a couple shots of gun grease a year. I believe i've got 7 ys on that free mower.
I've seen old farmals with axle seals that weep, and the usual fix was to push a whole tube of gun grease into the rear compartment to make almost a farm yard thixotropic formulation. IE.. while spinning it's liquid like a thick gear oil, when it stops moving it gels over like a grease with surface tension and defined boundry layer.
There's an art and a science to working with and on junk.
