Tractors and wood! Show your pics

/ Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,241  
Thanks Roadhunter! I had not heard of that. I am going to dig into it more in the area of crop production/economics. How much do you make a year and what crops is it used on in your area?

As you can see you have my curiosity peaked!
 
/ Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,242  
I got hooked a couple of years ago and really enjoy working with others who feel the same way. I currently process about 100 tons of chips per month and plan to expand to 1,000 once demand increases. I also help people make biochar with thier wood waste. I am focused more on industrial uses as a replacement for activated carbon. We have done testing on things like mercure capture from coal fired power plant flue gas and also have work going on at UNL utilizing biochar as a livestock feed supplement. There are many applications. Let me know if you have more questions and i'm happy to help.

There is a biochar group over in Illinois that may be of interest to you.
Illinois Biochar Website
 
/ Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,243  
Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. Been busy. I bought my winch about 8 years ago. I had a 28 hp montana tractor when I bought it. It worked great for that size tractor as well as my 47 hp kubota. I will say you have to be careful when pulling a bit sideways because you can flip your tractor. The winch is a wallenstine made by the Mennonites in Ontario. At the time the price with pretty much $2500. The model number was fx6500 which can pull 6500 pounds. The great thing about the winch is you do not have to build so many roads and you find ways to use it more efficiently. For example I cut about a cord down and gather it all up with the winch. This way when I finished processing the wood it is in one big pile. When I go to load it into the trailer it is one stop. I like my winch and never had any problems with it.
Gaproperty, I'm in Newfoundland. Wondering where you got your winch and how much? Size hp is your tractor ? Is that what you use primarily for firewood? I also have a j5 tractor, I could build a decent tandem trailer and drive to most wood. But have been thinking of a winch for a 28 hp tractor. I thought also if I got the winch of making a 3 point for the j5 and hydro pto to power the winch so I could use either or.
 
/ Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,244  
thanks. I am on the prowl for some of the cages.
Your suggestion of splitting directly to storage is spot on. I picked up some ICB metal pallet cages and split directly to them. It has saved a ton of time and handling. Nice video.

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/ Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,245  
I bought that one from a tractor dealership about 8 years ago. I have never seen them sense but would like to get another one. One thing is when you go to take the chain off the log your have to pull the end of the chain all the way through the slip knot or loosen the loop and slide it over the end of the log as apposed to the hook style you can just unhook the chain at hook to get the chain of the log.
gaproperty-

Good video. Did you make or buy the the choker/clevis end?
 
/ Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,246  
Easy homemade chain chokers. I just welded half links into the hooks so the chain barely fits through. Works great.

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/ Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,247  
A friends chimney went on fire... what was the cause? H She install a new metal chimney and new stove and got a professional installer to install everything correctly just 2 months ago. She burned a chimney cleaning log one every 6 weeks as it was recommended. She burned seasoned hardwood. She was sitting in front of the stove when she heard the chimney go on fire. She had baking soda which put out the fire in the stove. The metal chimney warped so bad that she cannot light a fire because it woulds not contain the smoke. So in just two months she had a chimney fire. Can anybody tell me what went wrong here? Should the chimney warp at the connections from the fire.
 
/ Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,248  
What is the set-up? A wood stove with a stove pipe going up a ways and then into the chimney or direct out of the stove into the chimney? Typically you need to have a little build-up to get a fire, i.e. you have to have something to burn. She must not have had a good draft? It also sounds like she had way too much heat going right up the chimney for he metal chimney to get that hot.
 
/ Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,249  
Assuming everything else was right:

Personally, I don't think those chimney logs do much of anything!

Second, I'd be looking at just how "seasoned" that firewood really was?

SR
 
/ Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,250  
A friends chimney went on fire... what was the cause? H She install a new metal chimney and new stove and got a professional installer to install everything correctly just 2 months ago. She burned a chimney cleaning log one every 6 weeks as it was recommended. She burned seasoned hardwood. She was sitting in front of the stove when she heard the chimney go on fire. She had baking soda which put out the fire in the stove. The metal chimney warped so bad that she cannot light a fire because it woulds not contain the smoke. So in just two months she had a chimney fire. Can anybody tell me what went wrong here? Should the chimney warp at the connections from the fire.


For the chimney to catch on fire it had to have creosote built up. The chimney warped from the fire.
Was she really burning seasoned wood?
What kind of surface temps does she run? Is she one of these people that lets the stove simmer.
What kinda of stove?

"Creamer" has a good idea about the draft but I would think they should have checked it when they installed the chimney.
 
/ Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,251  
Personally, I don't think those chimney logs do much of anything!

Second, I'd be looking at just how "seasoned" that firewood really was?

SR
Ditto... I would be quite surprised if those chimney logs used on an infrequent basis are very effective. I somewhat understand the science behind them but creosote build up I think would be hard to reverse without very frequent use of these special logs. Instead, burn dry wood in a fireplace that has a good draw in the first place. If your are concerned about the operation and safety of your fireplace and flue/vent... get it inspected by a professional.
 
/ Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,252  
Some people think "seasoned" means cut last year. That is not seasoned to me.

3 or 4 years in my book.
 
/ Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,253  
Cut last year works for "some" species of wood, and it doesn't for others...

SR
 
/ Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,254  
I posted before about a nice wood stack I had at the rent house... cut and split.

Told the tenants it was green and not ready to burn.

Made a trip up several months later and all the wood was just about gone...

I was not happy and the tenant said he was able to burn it all but the secret was starting the fire with presto logs...

Just don't have the patience I use to have... the sweep said there was a buildup when I had him come out.
 
/ Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,256  
"Cut last year" is almost meaningless. Did they cut the trees, but leave them in tree length until just before it was delivered this fall? If so, the wood will NOT be dry. If the wood was not stored properly, it also won't dry out: Stacked up off the ground (on poles or pallets) and exposed to the sun and wind is one good method (there are others).

In the end, to be considered seasoned, the average moisture content needs to be below 20%. (Average below 20% does NOT just mean the ends of the log are below 20%.) Around here, if I cut and split it in the fall, stack it on pallets a couple rows per pallet, exposed to the sun and wind, I can get most species down to 15% or less by the beginning of the next heating season. If I stack in single rows, or at least leave some good space between rows, I can get it to around 15% by heating season if I get it all split and stacked by late spring (I try to avoid pushing things that close, however.) In less than ideal conditions, it will take MUCH longer to dry the wood (for example storing it inside a garage, where there is no air flow, storing it in contact with the ground, or storing it stacked in the woods - where it's cooler, less wind, and relative humidity is higher).

Generally, most species will dry to the "fiber saturation point" - about 30% moisture content - rather quickly. Think of this as driving off the "free water" held within the wood. Getting below that point takes longer, since you have to drive the moisture out of the cells in the wood.
 
/ Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,257  
A friends chimney went on fire... what was the cause? H She install a new metal chimney and new stove and got a professional installer to install everything correctly just 2 months ago. She burned a chimney cleaning log one every 6 weeks as it was recommended. She burned seasoned hardwood. She was sitting in front of the stove when she heard the chimney go on fire. She had baking soda which put out the fire in the stove. The metal chimney warped so bad that she cannot light a fire because it woulds not contain the smoke. So in just two months she had a chimney fire. Can anybody tell me what went wrong here? Should the chimney warp at the connections from the fire.

IF the wood actually was fully seasoned (and not just some firewood shysters claim of seasoned), then she may have been burning a cold, smoldering fire. In addition to wasting a lot of BTUs (the gasses tend not to ignite at lower temperatures, which means a lot of the BTUs never get produced), this produces creosote. Wood likes to burn HOT. It burns cleaner and more efficiently this way. Loading up the stove, then choking off the air in an attempt to make the load last will cause these problems. This can be a problem in the "shoulder" heating seasons as well, particularly if the stove is oversized for the heating load. People will choke off the air to keep the room from getting too hot.

This effect is also what contributes to the myth that burning pine or other softwoods "causes creosote". It doesn't. Burning green wood or burning wood improperly causes creosote. Pine tends to burn fast and hot. Those who try to change this by choking off the air too far in an attempt to stretch out the burn time are going to see creosote formation.
 
/ Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,258  
The design of the wood burner has a lot to do with the creosote too. I have an older wood furnace that will creosote the chimney right tight in a few months. I also have a newer wood furnace that has the Gasification function and burns all the wood gases and it doesn't put ANY creosote in the chimney when I burn the exact same wood that is very dry and then stored inside for a year to be sure its very dry.

The older wood furnace tries to shut the burn down too much on idle times, and all the wood gases fill the chimney. The newer Gasification unit burns all the wood gases and turns them into heat and then little to none goes out the chimney.

Don't hesitate to upgrade to a Gasifier, mine is AMAZING!
 
/ Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,260  
Cut last year works for "some" species of wood, and it doesn't for others...

SR

It also matters how and where the wood is stored after cutting and splitting.

I often see piles in the shade [and inside the dripline of trees], of buildings, uncovered and [in our Upstate NY humidity] rotting but ours all have a southern exposure and are covered on top with just enough overhang to prevent drip from getting in.

Ours are dry and burn readily and cleanly.
 

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