Tractors and wood! Show your pics

   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,251  
Personally, I don't think those chimney logs do much of anything!

Second, I'd be looking at just how "seasoned" that firewood really was?

SR
Ditto... I would be quite surprised if those chimney logs used on an infrequent basis are very effective. I somewhat understand the science behind them but creosote build up I think would be hard to reverse without very frequent use of these special logs. Instead, burn dry wood in a fireplace that has a good draw in the first place. If your are concerned about the operation and safety of your fireplace and flue/vent... get it inspected by a professional.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,252  
Some people think "seasoned" means cut last year. That is not seasoned to me.

3 or 4 years in my book.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,253  
Cut last year works for "some" species of wood, and it doesn't for others...

SR
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,254  
I posted before about a nice wood stack I had at the rent house... cut and split.

Told the tenants it was green and not ready to burn.

Made a trip up several months later and all the wood was just about gone...

I was not happy and the tenant said he was able to burn it all but the secret was starting the fire with presto logs...

Just don't have the patience I use to have... the sweep said there was a buildup when I had him come out.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,256  
"Cut last year" is almost meaningless. Did they cut the trees, but leave them in tree length until just before it was delivered this fall? If so, the wood will NOT be dry. If the wood was not stored properly, it also won't dry out: Stacked up off the ground (on poles or pallets) and exposed to the sun and wind is one good method (there are others).

In the end, to be considered seasoned, the average moisture content needs to be below 20%. (Average below 20% does NOT just mean the ends of the log are below 20%.) Around here, if I cut and split it in the fall, stack it on pallets a couple rows per pallet, exposed to the sun and wind, I can get most species down to 15% or less by the beginning of the next heating season. If I stack in single rows, or at least leave some good space between rows, I can get it to around 15% by heating season if I get it all split and stacked by late spring (I try to avoid pushing things that close, however.) In less than ideal conditions, it will take MUCH longer to dry the wood (for example storing it inside a garage, where there is no air flow, storing it in contact with the ground, or storing it stacked in the woods - where it's cooler, less wind, and relative humidity is higher).

Generally, most species will dry to the "fiber saturation point" - about 30% moisture content - rather quickly. Think of this as driving off the "free water" held within the wood. Getting below that point takes longer, since you have to drive the moisture out of the cells in the wood.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,257  
A friends chimney went on fire... what was the cause? H She install a new metal chimney and new stove and got a professional installer to install everything correctly just 2 months ago. She burned a chimney cleaning log one every 6 weeks as it was recommended. She burned seasoned hardwood. She was sitting in front of the stove when she heard the chimney go on fire. She had baking soda which put out the fire in the stove. The metal chimney warped so bad that she cannot light a fire because it woulds not contain the smoke. So in just two months she had a chimney fire. Can anybody tell me what went wrong here? Should the chimney warp at the connections from the fire.

IF the wood actually was fully seasoned (and not just some firewood shysters claim of seasoned), then she may have been burning a cold, smoldering fire. In addition to wasting a lot of BTUs (the gasses tend not to ignite at lower temperatures, which means a lot of the BTUs never get produced), this produces creosote. Wood likes to burn HOT. It burns cleaner and more efficiently this way. Loading up the stove, then choking off the air in an attempt to make the load last will cause these problems. This can be a problem in the "shoulder" heating seasons as well, particularly if the stove is oversized for the heating load. People will choke off the air to keep the room from getting too hot.

This effect is also what contributes to the myth that burning pine or other softwoods "causes creosote". It doesn't. Burning green wood or burning wood improperly causes creosote. Pine tends to burn fast and hot. Those who try to change this by choking off the air too far in an attempt to stretch out the burn time are going to see creosote formation.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,258  
The design of the wood burner has a lot to do with the creosote too. I have an older wood furnace that will creosote the chimney right tight in a few months. I also have a newer wood furnace that has the Gasification function and burns all the wood gases and it doesn't put ANY creosote in the chimney when I burn the exact same wood that is very dry and then stored inside for a year to be sure its very dry.

The older wood furnace tries to shut the burn down too much on idle times, and all the wood gases fill the chimney. The newer Gasification unit burns all the wood gases and turns them into heat and then little to none goes out the chimney.

Don't hesitate to upgrade to a Gasifier, mine is AMAZING!
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #4,260  
Cut last year works for "some" species of wood, and it doesn't for others...

SR

It also matters how and where the wood is stored after cutting and splitting.

I often see piles in the shade [and inside the dripline of trees], of buildings, uncovered and [in our Upstate NY humidity] rotting but ours all have a southern exposure and are covered on top with just enough overhang to prevent drip from getting in.

Ours are dry and burn readily and cleanly.
 

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